harrybarbon

Hi Paul, thanks for the comment re Crown Casino, that was around 1994/95 when I was working with a company that was the back up premix concrete supplier to the builder of Crown Casino. A friend worked for the builder doing the concrete, often 12-14 hour days, at least weekly they started a 150-200 cubic metre pour at 4 pm and they got off the finished concrete at 9 pm and then back on the job at 7 am.

So based on your recollection, the Antonov flew into Syd around 95/96, Kone would have supplied the escalators in addition to the lifts - there are many long escalators in the casino. The Antonov would have been perfect to load the escalators into the plane.

David, I enjoyed walking thru the 225 Antonov some 16-18 years ago when it was at the Avalon, Victoria Australia air show, including climbing the stairs to the flight deck, it was massive, it was lowered to minimum ground clearance and the front and rear were open, there was a very long que of people to see the Antonov, we entered from the back and out the front - 1,000's attend these shows to see, walk into and thru some magnificent aircraft and watch some real flying, including 1 jet plane similar top wing design do the 360 rollover.

I have some recollection that the Antonov did a take off, went around for a low fly thru along the main Avalon runway and then went around the bay and came in for a landing.

Also many years ago, the Antonov flew into Melbourne Tullamarine airport, my mate was a refueling supervisor, he did the refueling of the Antonov. He had the joy of a guided tour of the entire Antonov by the engineer.

I have read an article and saw a youtube video of an incomplete Antonov in the hanger in Ukraine. Is this true and correct? Article noted that if the funding could be secured to complete the Antonov, then it would go ahead.    

Hello Matt - how is your B73 restoration progressing?

About 10 years ago we had I recall E10 petrol fuel (gasoline) over here which had some bio additive, not sure, it was strongly promoted as the way to for our petrol motors. So I started using it in our Toyota Prado 4 litre V6. Some 6 months later motor would not start, the engine sounded like it was choking. I rang the service manager at our local Toyota yard. First question - what fuel are you using, I said E10. His reply was - never use it again, put in 10-20 litres of 98 fuel and a bottle of injector additive and try kicking over the engine without actually starting the motor 3-4 times and then try start it, let it run for 1/2 hour stationary. It fired up after 3 key turns, the motor was rough for about 30 minutes and slowly it began to settle down.

The service manager said the E10 slowly builds up like a glue and blocks the injectors and fuel pump, just keep topping up with 98 and add 1 bottle of fuel additive/cleaner weekly for next 3 weeks to clean out the crap. And continue using 98 fuel, which I have and thereafter motor has run perfectly, and more power and better fuel range than 95 and 92. 

We have hydrogen mixing with the diesel fuel in our E6 - 350, runs like a Swiss watch and reduces emissions 75-80%, plus the increased torque, up to 25% and clean engine. We planned to add LPG, but rules and regs to hard and the Mack technical guys told me their experience during early 1980's in new Ultraliners LPG was causing burn't valves and pistons, hence they removed the LPG set ups. No problems with the hydrogen and cheap to buy or make distilled water. One litre of distilled water creates hydrogen for 1,000 klms.

Passion equals success  👍

we have the same inter-cooler on our E6-350, definitely a second air cleaner (dry element unit) to match the right side air cleaner, which should also be a dry element unit with your EM6 - 300 engine, it will pull real good  

Good observation and yes seems to be a novel way to make it work, i was told by owner that it ran excellently. The air intake is pumping air in and the turbo is allowing the exhaust to release the blow out, so a new way of application that works.

Here is a pic of new Shell Macks with the same exhaust muffler.

Pic of blue frame 10/89 Valueliner with the steering box mounted inside the frame/chassis, the red frame Valueliner build was 12/89 it had the steering box mounted on outside of the frame, seems that Mack Aust decided soon after Oct 89 to mount the steering box outside the frame. 

All Superliners that I have seen do not have the V8 emblem, however all the Valueliners with the V8 engine have the V8 emblem. Maybe only the early V8 Superliners had the V8 emblem. The blue Superliner seems to have lost all it's hood emblems many moons past!!! Holes all filled in.

No air start in Bromage's Superliner and the muffler would have been speced to comply with our fuel delivery trucks regs. During 1970's to 1980's Shell had all Macks for it's prime movers and all had same type of muffler.

Previously, the mufflers were under the front bumper and pointing out to the right side, again for govt regs,  because most fuel trucks were petrol engines. 

Hi Vlad

Here is a picture of Vin plate riveted onto left door of our Valueliner and yes total of 17 letters and numbers. I have not enquired about what the letters and numbers represent. Frame (chassis) number is on right side, usually front of the cab.

Dan Thomas wrote some time ago that when he was in process of registering his Aussie Valueliner he was concerned about the Vin plate not being on left side and he was relieved when he saw it was on left same as in US,

Clarification is 1st Aussie Superliner built 1978 and it had a Cat 3408 and is now resting with other doggies in a Mack kennel in the Southern end of Australia.

The Supeliner above was the 1st powered by the MACK V8-E9, it was number 4, delivered July 1979.

I make an apology, this was not the 1st Aussie Superliner,

It was the 1st Aussie Superliner with the E9 engine, waiting for some info to hopefully track down 1st Superliner and what engine was fitted before the E9

1st Australian Superliner was built in 1979

Is this what you mean? This is our 10 spd same as the 12 spd lever and splitter. We had a solid piece of wood shaped to copy the gear knob in our Toyota Prado auto shift knob. We had a metal tube threaded to same as the gear lever, drilled hole into bottom of wood knob and set the metal tube with industrial glue into the hole.

Yes apply  the high fill in 2-3 progressive layers over the LS but you must add approx 35 of flex additive to the high fill because the LS is flexible whereas the high fill is solid, by adding the flex add to the high fill then the high fill will move with the LS - when I say move it means the product is flexible, and that is ok, after each HF you apply let it dry thoroughly then sand it back to even it a bit then apply 2nd HF with flex add, let dry then rub back, if after 2nd coat you have a smooth surface then you can apply an undercoat also with flex add, let dry and rub back to get smooth finish and then apply the final red paint with flex add in the red.

That is how we did our fire wall engine side and we have a mirror finish which you see in my picture.

If you need to apply a 3rd coat of HF then that wont hurt because you are building up in layers to get a smooth surface before  you spray the undercoat.

It sounds like a lot of work but the final result you will be very happy and get the benefits - once done you will look back and forget the extra work, but it is done properly, which is what the LS inventor, Bob Call advised me to do.

Remember the trick is to add the flex add so all the products can flex in parallel with the LS. And that is what I have seen with underside of our hood, it is aluminium we applied LS with some of our external green paint mixed in and the hood twists when it is opened and lifted, so far after 5 years no cracking or peeling of the LS because it is flexible - hence the name like the lizard skin.

With your cab wall vents they serve no real purpose unless you want a permanent air flow. If not seal them with a thin aluminium or metal sheet, painted black facing the vents, and stick on with a long lasting glue so you dont have water leaking thru into the cab, (when you wash the truck) and no bugs or mice to damage the upholstery, do this before you spray the LS over internal cab walls. That is how Ian Lee did the vents in his Pal LTL, from outside the vents look as original.

Congratulations on a craftsman workmanship, a credit to you sir.

Matt - what are you planning to do with the 2 vents on the rear of the cab? Ian welded a curved plate inside over both vents stops water and all else getting into cab and upholstery and all inside cab had LS applied

I dont have a picture of the plates he welded, but I will try ask his panel guy if he took some pictures.

Hi Matt

For your firewall please see our firewall, we have lots of fittings etc including our custom vintage air co fittings, but the smooth mirror finish is clearly seen behind all the fittings. The aim is to stop the sound and the heat getting into the firewall metal from the engine side, that is the best 1st action that is overlooked. Once the engine side of the metal is shielded, it is at least 75% of stopping heat and sound coming into the cab. The inside cab is about 25%. The same as the cab floor, you have applied LS to the underside, so the heat from the gearbox will not penetrate thru the floor. Same principal for the fire wall. 

For the firewall holes, may I suggest that you weld a thin plate on the cab side over the holes that you will not use. Then you can apply the LS to the engine side of the firewall and then the hyfil to build up to a mirror finish.

Re the use of the LS, yes you will use a bit more in the crevices etc, but on the generally flat areas you should not exceed more than thickness of a credit card. Double the thickness does not produce double the insulation, so you dont need to waste the LS by applying a thick coating.

And yes do all the inside of the doors especially the bottom sills, it will seal and prevent rust permanently and do all inside the doors. You will be most surprised by the dull sound when you open and close the doors, it will sound like a clunk, no tinny vibrating sound. And do the under sides of the fenders, deadens the road noise. And same under the hood - you wont use much LS under the hood, it works like sound deadner under cars hoods.

My experience in our B model, with E350 turbo motor and 10 spd overdrive, is it cuts out the noise and vibration coming from the engine bay, so then you can hear what you want to hear - the music coming out of the exhaust. You can go straight because with the LS all inside your cabin, and the upholstery it will cut down the exhaust sound, wind up the windows and it will be quieter. When I want to hear our exhaust humming, going up hill and winding up the turbo or going down hill and engine brake on, then I wind down the windows and I hear the music coming from the 2 exhausts. And in middle of the night the sound is fantastic, just the humming from the exhaust. Not dulled by noise coming from the engine bay thru the floor, firewall, engine hood and doors. Only noise that we could not cut out is the vibration that comes thru the gear lever - we have sound padding but it is ok, only under load it is a bit noisy.

Ian's LTL Pal had the LS applied same as our B model, it has straight exhausts and a 400 HP Cummins, he got same experience a I do in our B model.

That is the real benefit of the LS and it sound control product, it cuts out all the shit noises so then you can properly hear the exhaust sound. 

Please any idea what engine is in that Brockway?

Did Brockway ever fit the Mack motors and if yes did they fit the Mack V8's?

This 760 with an E9 would be something!!!

That Fageol seems to be maybe built on an IH running chassis, the front bumper, the front wheels look like the DCO Emeryville wheels and radiator louvers are same as the Inter R 190 ... series. With the body height it could be custom built inside into mobile home and retaining the original Ridgway external design and colours for it's heritage.

Hi Matt

Great job, a bit of red adds to the complete package, but please make sure that you have squeezed the LS into all the nooks and crannies, especially all weld joins, anywhere the nasty rust loves to hibernate, once the LS dries it will seal the metal completely.

And you probably saw how easy to apply LS, it flows when you apply it, then a quick wash up with warm or cold water, no toxins and no harm to your skin or lungs.

I may be repeating my previous posts, remember if you plan to apply to the engine bay side of the fire wall and then apply finished red paint over the LS, you have to apply a mixture of hyfill and about 35% flex additive first over the LS, let dry and then rub back and most likely you will have to apply a 2nd coat of the hyfill and flex additive to get a smooth finish, so then you have a smooth finish to undercoat and thereafter the top coats. It will come up like the external panel finish, you will get the LS benefits and the fire wall behind the engine looking great.

I look forward to soon see your completed cabin painted - our departed and missed dear friend Mack devotee "Ian Lee" always said - " trucks are red and tractors are yellow, if it's not red leave it in the shed"!!! Here is Ian during the build of his custom Diamond T - Princess Diana and his Pal, his Pal got a complete application of LS and Ian's favourite and only colour.

J is this B 73 still around and being shown at truck shows?

AZB - golden words that only some truly understand and appreciate 👌

AZB...  I bought 2 external caravan covers with soft internal fabric from Aldi Supermarket about $aust 85 each, they cover our B75 truck and sleeper cabs all over and down the sides and second cover for the frame and rear end, - keeps our Kermit clean, dry and happy in his kennel. I cut 2 small holes to allow the exhausts to poke thru so the cover drop down the sides fully, and then placed a couple of hessian sacks over the exhausts. And plenty of rat sack to protect Kermit from invaders. 

My daughter is home tomorrow night, I will ask her for latest updates from camp HQ and post back soon.

I can understand they are trying like all of us doing our best to keep our heads up and save our businesses. Fortunately, locally all building and civil works, transport, and food stores are in business. Our concrete plants in Melb and Sydney are operating normally and some plants, supplying new underground railway tunnels are as busy as before the CV shut down. Our construction unions told the govt you are not shutting us down, they said we have our own top notch OHS systems and procedures, to control how workers protect themselves, so far no infections from construction works. A friend has a his machines working in the new Sydney underground railway tunnels and they are working 24/7, his old Macks (V8's) continue to bop bop every day moving their machines. Here is 1.

My other daughter moved to Dublin, Ireland at start of March and all building and civil projects in Ireland are shut - no work. 

Our August 2020 Alice Springs National truck show is delayed to 2021, I had a booking with deposit paid at the Big 4 caravan park, they are holding our money to 2021, best solution.

Many people are doing it real tough, the lag damages are unknown and lets keep as best a positive hope.