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Posts posted by HarryS
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I saw this on FB mislabeled as a B Model. It's in Gladys, VA. Other Dog may have seen this one.
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I was there today from 12 until 4 and missed you guys along with Matt's truck. Really wanted to see that beauty. The show area has gotten a lot larger in the past few years which means a lot more walking.
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On 12/29/2022 at 2:53 PM, Freightrain said:
My thread is 1.125. the nut is about 1 7/8" hex.
Here is the whole drag link assembly hanging on a spare box I have. It is the same as what is on my truck. I had to swap everything to get the air assist bolted up. Apparently the air set up came from a lighter front axle and the joint at the spindle was not correct. I have the FA517 axle.
I had a Garrison hydraulic assist power steering that worked fine but had serious leaks. I sent it out and had all new seals, o-rings and so forth put it. I also had new seals put in the hydraulic cylinder. When reinstalled there was serious wondering. The shop went back over the valve, no luck, same problem. They substituted a rebuilt one, same problem. I ended up taking the Garrison unit off to go back to manual steering. The drag link I found fits 1 1/2" balls and wouldn't you know my knuckle is 1 1/2" and the pitman arm is 1 3/4". The front axle is a FA 505 and the sector shaft at the steering box is 1.125.
I came on this old post and wonder, Larry do you still the parts pictured? and if so what's diameter of the ball on the pitman arm?
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How about "Big Bucks"
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I bet that would do good on Bring a Trailer.
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15 hours ago, Joseph Cummings said:
If those bolt holes are dimpled in, you want to take a big flat punch and drive them out a little. Also make sure the shouldered bolts screw all the way into the rocker shaft mounts and the shoulder sits tight on the mount. Lots of times incorrect washers get used on the bolts holding the rocker shafts to the cylinder head and the rocker cover bolt bottoms out on the incorrect washer.
I noticed when I replaced the valve cover gaskets they seemed to bottom out on the mounts as mentioned not making a solid fit to the gasket. I did a bead of RTV to try and compensate. No leaks so far. Here is a picture of the shouldered bolt with a grove around it. I'm not sure what that was for.
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There should be a major electrical connection either at the starter or solenoid. It should go from there through the ammeter to the voltage regulator or maybe ignition system depending on how Mack did it. Hopefully you can find a wiring diagram for your model that shows the specifics.
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2 hours ago, Mark T said:
Kinda reminds you of that B in the other post.
I thought the same thing especially with that apparatus on the rear.
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That looks like the same truck I remember as a kid coming to Alexandria, VA with the circus. It was cool to watch it in action.
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Here's a picture.
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Saw this on FB marketplace. Not mine. (6) Marketplace - 1961 Mack b-61 diesel truck (dc area) | Facebook
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Looks like it bid to $10300 and was a no sale. Now asking $21000.
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Here's a link to the site. Lots of interesting info including a chart showing values over the past few years.
Custom Hauler: Stretched 1965 Mack B53 Tractor - Hemmings.com
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Hemmings Auction. Not mine just happened to see it.
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Love to find that beauty under the Christmas tree.
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Congratulations! Sounds like a great plan.
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Looks like the plug gap is .030, timing is 4* BTC. The Mack Operation Manual does not give point gap but generic six cylinder should be around .020 and the dwell should be 31-35.
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On 10/29/2024 at 3:34 PM, other dog said:
I'll tell you about the Skylark. I bought it used, had a 350 in it, ran smooth as a clock. Then I bought an Olds Cutlass Supreme, which was a really nice car- one I should have kept probably- anyway, it had an Olds 350 in it, power everything, great looking car. So I sold the Buick to another driver at H.H. Moore's. He lived in Covington and wanted something to drive back and forth to Appomattox. He wanted to know if I would put him on the installment plan, he said he would pay me $50 a week. I didn't need the car, I'd known this guy for several years, so I agreed. I think he paid me about $100 down, don't remember for sure, but I'm sure it wasn't much.
As you've probably already guessed, he quit shortly after that, and I never saw another dime for the car. About a year or more later I ran across another driver I knew who lived in Covington, he used to drive for H.H. too. I asked him what "jigsaw" was doing, and told him about the Buick. He said "oh, he said he didn't pay you because the motor locked up".
Maybe it did, but it ran fine when he left H.H. Moore's in it headed home to Covington, and I didn't guarantee anything.
I never even tried to get the rest of the money or anything, but he wasn't on the Christmas card list afterwards🤣
Now I don't feel so bad. A number of years ago I had a '68 Mustang fastback, 302 4sp with air. A friend wanted to buy it for his son that was graduating from HS. They came and looked at it and the son was really excited. The sale was $4000 (remember this was years ago). They gave me half and a promise for the other half in a month or so. I even threw a nice Mustang jacket. Of course months and years passed with broken promises. Then the father died and the son had moved away. After what I thought was an appropriate amount of time I called the wife who said she had nothing to do with it and wouldn't give contact info for the son. Since I had a lien on the title I figured I would hear something sooner or later but never did or as an optimist would say haven't yet..
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That is plan B. If the parts store can't find the bushings I'll have them made. I spoke to a machine shop that makes a lot of parts for antique cars and he has made them before. Just needs the specs.
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Mack DM in Gladys, VA
in Trucks for Sale
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I agree and on top of that he asks for offers. It does smell fishy.