Noid93

Unless the destroking process on the air compressor takes longer than the purge, It will continue to pump air untill the destroking valve hold the valves open on the air compressor. Just had a 3176 cat in a t600 KW (part of Maxvilles fleet) that would continue to pump all day long. The culprit, a collapsed line from a governor to the compressor, but if your mack is like mine, the gov is bolted to the comp. Also, The o rings on the destroking valves could be old and cracked, I just ordered a "destroking kit" for the bendix tf 550 air compressor on that cat(the same as on my truck) that consists of a gasket and push rods with new o rings for a whole 15 dollars. Those valves are just under the cover on the head of the comp(right on top). If you need i can get a part #. Let me know.

As goes the tranny battle, I have not found a quick fix for the reverse problem. PS. Its a 13 spd. I get buy as is, but i was just wondering if this has happend to any one else. I think its pretty clear to a tranny expert like yourself what would be wrong, but no ones got a quick remedy. I will probally run it until it becomes unoperable. If i need a clutch in the slow winter season i may tear it down, but it aslo has a few noisy gears(not major but still there) so i may not be to far off from a reman exchange deal. The noisiest gears are tenth(4 and 8 hole on the under drive) and eleventh (same hole just with the H/L box in direct. Its louder in one than the other. It just makes me wonder if i have just the right/wrong combo of speed and bearings making just the right resignation making it that way. I apreicate all the help from you guys. THANKS ALOT

CURT

I KNEW I WOULD FIND IT...... If you want the info that the manufacturers have, you must have the data that they, the engine makers, use. Now I have had a look at this book, and i find it to be the best. I find an engine manufacturer and this book gives you the minimum requirements that they need. Then they show which oils match meet or exceed OR lacks the amout needed. Its simple. If you have a _____ engine, It give check marks on which oils meet its needs. The base number is given for each oil also and as in my other post, it tells me if it is a real bargan to buy cheaper oil and more filters, or change less and spend more..

ENGINE MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION

ENGINE FLUID DATA BOOK

http://www.enginemanufacturers.org/info/pu...k_orderform.pdf

ITS $110 BUCKS BUT WHEN I USED IT AT SCHOOL, IT OPENED MY EYES TO THE TRUTH ABOUT OILS. Everyone in my class thought shell rotella t was great oil. Even i was suprised to see that it meets very few major engine manufacturers needs on oils.

Hope this helps, it educated me on oils...

I usually just do it once a year, unless its really dirty(metal finlings, changes colors, etc). I would compare it to rotating tires or changing coolant(who does that?). You know if it needs to be done or not. I would by no means go over two years without changing oils in those. I dont care how much the oils cost, just figure how much a rear end or tranny costs vs a couple hundred dollars in oil. Get an oil analisyst done will tell wether the oil has deteriorated....

Schaffers!!!!! Find a dealer and see the demo, you will never belive how pure friction can be defeated by a quality oil. As for shell rotella T, I wouldnt run that in my 90 ford escort GT(its a real gem).

I wish i could remember the book of independent studies done on oils that break them down based on contents such as ash and others.(anyone help me out if you know) The studies rated each oil with a base number. If the base number was 10, you could run at 100% of normal intervals such as 10000mi on heavy on road diesel, or 3000mi in your family cruiser. Lets say your base # was a 8.3, you were only to run on 83% of recomended interval(8300 mi). Anyway the rotella T was rated i belive in the 7 somethings. Now i am a touch bias to the schaffer oil since i saw the dealers demo on it( ive seen the ams oil and others but this was simple friction(a wheel on an electric motor with an amp meter and a timken bearing roller on a lever that pushed aginst the wheel)). Ask yourself this, Is mack in the business of making oil to get rich? No. The build a damn fine truck with great components and they want them to last as long as the name Mack has. So when they design an oil to run in there engines, it is formulated to ensure longevity of its components. If your mack engine need to be rebuilt at a rediculusly low hour/milage, are you going to blame the engine or your oil??? What im saying is, Mack has a great name, and they want to uphold it, so mack makes oil to help uphold there name. And for what you may save by running a cheaper oil, will be lost with the shorter change intervals( if you follow the base numbers) and filters.

I WILL TRY TO FIND THE NAME OF THAT STUDY WITH THE OILS IN IT.

10-4 Driver, This all sounds correct. One thing i did when i questioned 80w90 in my mack trans was call the dealer. It was easy to tell that it was conventional gear oil in there but you never know what the last guy may have put in it. Two minutes on the phone and there was my answer. Now i am all 80w90 in my driveline(mack rears) but i know your call on the trans is correct. The rears if you pull the plug to check the level it should be fairly easy to tell the difference between the 75w90 and the conventional just by color and smell. We all know the ragged smell of 80w90 but the synthetic i would say has a more golden redish color and the smell is not as curdling. To be on the safe side, call the dealer and ask...

i got a 97 mack ch @ factory 400 hp pulling hopper bottom short haul(45 miles a shot) on hilly back roads all day pullin 80-84K with a fair amout of idling time and i pull a constant 6.4 or better mpg in the summer. I did ad a box to boost power ten or thirty percent at the flip of a switch and been pulling about the same mpg( its been on the high setting for a while now). Id say pulling dry van that the last posts reply is not out of line. When i pulled cattle pot i used to pull off 6.7 and those things pull hard empty. Dont sound like a bad deal.. How much is he asking??????

t2130 trans(25% over dirve) LP 24.5, and 3.87 ratio, 1400 rpm @ 60mph

We have a CATCO localy that takes care of most of the driveline work on anything from a pickup to off road equipment. I will inquire with them.

Thanks again, PS any help on my transmission post???

GREAT NEWS, Just got my drive shaft fixed.... CHEAP. Found a new takeoff intermediat shaft at a boneyard for $100. 2 cuts, one weld, one balance.......

$85!!!!!! Pretty good price for the repairs especialy on a saturday. JR Advanced Driveline out of Chippewa Falls, WI.... 715-726-1181 Will ship most any where..

A dyno test tests hp at the wheels, not at the motor, and i have been told that generaly you lose up to 10% of power per set of gears(i think thats a bit excessive) but by the time the tranny goes thru 2-3 sets of gears and then the rears(if you have mack rears also), you could be loosing 75 to 100 hp in no time. I dynoed a cornpicker with a dt533 motor(junk) that was recent remaned. So long story short, that pile should be 250 hp and was putting out 165 at the wheels in direct on the tranny. Im not real knowlegable on this but the math is close. Also, I feel the spec you should look at is torque. Hp(top end) maintains a working load, Torque(low end) gets you there (0 to 60). I have found torque to be a much easier sensation to feel on a truck. You cant have one without the other but torque seems to be the number that will fall off big if somethings not right.

Also, I drove the 89 R modle that MAXVILLE is talking about and for the E6 300 loaded to 90k with grain on, ONE MILE was not bad for 60 mph. One little secret of maxville and mine was putting the screws to it. We made a little smoke and watched the pyrometer and couldnt break 950 degrees. Im not asking you to settle for what you have, but as easy as some pumps are to turn up, the previous one could have been tweeked and after a reman process, they usually put them to factory.

Hope this helps

Noid93

A good drive line shop can replace the male end for you, they will need both sections in order align front and rear yokes, when welding the new splined end. You could let them check the female end for excessive wear as well. I would ask some one at a local trucking company who they use, for this kind of repair. Another option would be to find a good used assembly. You have to be careful if you do this though. You could spend as much, or more than it would cost to repair yours. I have never heard of anyone re-coating one. James

We have a CATCO localy that takes care of most of the driveline work on anything from a pickup to off road equipment. I will inquire with them.

Thanks again, PS any help on my transmission post???

The main purpose of this coating is to cushion, and reduce the shock load on the slip yoke. A slip yoke is just what the name implies. As the suspension goes though its normal travel, the yoke moves in and out. Without the coating the splines tend to fret,or brinell. and wear a lot faster. These joints don't always get all the lubrication that they need. Another aspect of these coatings is that they don"t require as much lube. or as much clearance. In other woods you can have a tighter joint with a much lower wear factor. Now. with the coating gone, you have increased clearance in the splines, which will only get worse until it fails. Like a drive line that is out of phase, or out of time it will shake and vibrate. The best time to fix it is now, instead of on the side of the road. James

I understand completely what the purpose of the slip yoke is, and had a good idea what the platic was for, but what is the best way to fix this??? Can a driveline specialist re-plastic it, or do i need to replace the whole drive shaft or /weld a new male splined end on the shaft/and or a new slip yoke??? Thanks for the help.

CURT

It has been a contiuously been a problem on my truck with the plastic on the slip yoke splines breaking and pushing out. How important is it, what is its purpose, and how bad is it to run it without??? Thanks for your help and info...

CURT

Noid93

My 97 CH had a snap ring in two pieces in the transmission oil when i drained it last. Between the last two changes it started to engage both reverse and 1st if you took it out of reverse while it was not stopped or had some sort of torque on the trans(not stopped without the clutch brake engaged for example). Obviously its in the sliding gear i belive(the snap ring was about three inches in diamiter). If it is in both gears and rolls a little, it will not come out of first with the stick without being pulled/pushed a very short distance(two inches or equal to the amout it rolled). Any quick fixes, has this happend to anybody else, and anyone with a used or fresh reman t2130 or t2180?? Thanks for your time and help guys..

Curt

Noid93

If anyone wants more out of the 1993 to 1997 v mac engines, I recommend the blixxton mac module. I use it on my 97 ch 613 that is factory at 400 hp. For $300(http://www.performancepartsdepot.com/)(click heavy equp, and then more info blow the ag tractor listings), i have got great power. Not sure on specific numbers but blixxton claims 30% more power and that would put me at 520hp. (percI know thats hp and not torque, but it pulls great. 80000 lbs on my truck pulling grain wagon and it just moves. Just got 6.5 mph pulling fertilizer in the hopper today whit two hills with passing lanes (each about 1\2 mile long) and never pulled out of 10th gear on my 2130 13 speed trans. I walk on c12 cats like a DOG should. :bmod1: Hang with the big blocks but cant say i pass any thing over 500 hp in the hills. Hey its only 12 liter. THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACMENT!!! I really like my module. Check out this post also...

http://bigmacktrucks.invisionzone.com/inde...?showtopic=2425

This is the rig that Maxville is talking about(a few posts up)

If you are looking to do a V-mack or V-mackII, I have used the Blixxton-mac. Buy from http://www.performancepartsdepot.com/ They are the cheapest around for the 1993 to 1997 e7 v-mac engines. 300 bucks got me one half to one mpg, real noticeable power, and great satisfaction on my 1997 ch613 that came factory at 400hp. (on the website, click hevy equipment vehicles, click more info below the (AG) tractor listings... any more questions let me know... :bmod1: (plugs in inline on pump harness)