Noid93

What transmission do you have, A mack or an eaton fuller... Beacause an eaton fuller 8LL is to be shifted as an eight speed(similar to your pete). But a mack 2060,70,80 can be ran like a five.. The eaton fuller 8LL trans should like low rpm better...

Oh yeah, here are some links...

Turbos, injectors, and blixxtons---

http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/dies...ck-c-2_107.html

Best price on blixxton

http://www.performancepartsdepot.com/Produ...e=Blixxton+Mack

PLEASE keep in mind that the blixxton itself is not the core issue. Its the operator. Guns can be dangerous too, if put in the wrong hands. Yes, you may be shortening engine life, twisting the block and so on, BUT with a full dash of gauges, proper knowlege, and paying close attention to your truck, This is a safe alternitive to OEM HP hikes. I've looked at how my turbo specs compaired to a 460, max boost ratings, Injectors(400-454 all the same tip), etc. Baisically, other than a larger turbo, my factory 400 has the same injectors and compression as the 454, but by my choise i can run 10%(440hp+/-) or 30% (520hp +/-) AT MY OWN CHOISE. Just as i would be responsible for pulling the trigger. It is as simple as plug and pay with this chip, but it is wise to even call your dealer and see what max hp the recommend from factory, without any other mods. For example- you can only push so muh fuel thru a small injector. Try pushing excessive fuel through and pump fatigue may be the price you pay. THE BEST PART IS THAT THIS CHIP HAS NO EFFECT ON THE 427 AND BIGGER MOTORS. YOU WILL NOT SEE EXCESSIVE SMOKE AND WILL NOT HATCH A MOTOR 3 DAYS AFTER INSTALLING SOLEY BECAUSE OF THE BLIXXTON. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!

Props to Jzack- THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DRIVER AND AN OPERATOR!!!!! I would never put these on a fleet. Too many drivers. But i like to think of myself as an operator.

I too have had better fuel economy with this because i can maintain a set speed and not always accelerating back to 60 mph after a hill. I do recommend this product based on my personal experience.

Knock on wood(please take the time now to do so...........) YES. Pulling 6.4-6.8 mpg hauling 66,000 lbs of spuds in the box, grossing 90-92 thousand. Big fall harvest in progress right now and that will be my average gross untill at least december. When im pulling hard hills north with corn i get as low as 5.6 mpg, but if im running along the mississippi with corn or soybeans i maintain bout that 6.4 mpg. Boost upwards of 35+ on 60 degree or less days, and yes, The best $300 i ever spent........Rochester Diesel almost has me talked into the turbo upgrade with new, bigger rubber elbow on the intake side either.......

Mine has a one and a two sticker on it. The one position is 30% and the 2 position is 10%. I know that sounds funny, but that is what the sheet said that mine came with and i didnt read that for a day or so after i had it and when i switched it to 1, it came alive more yet... If yours doesent have that one and two decal on it, with the wires hanging down and the switch pointing down, top twards you, i belive that one is the switch pointing away from the wiring harness...Thats how mine is.. Any other questions, i think rochester fuel is very knowlegable on macks. Check out their site. Injectors, Turbos, Blixxton

http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/dies...ck-c-2_107.html

I would not recommend a exhaust brake(behinde the turbo). The performance of a jake is second to none. The brake power of an exhaust brake is not even close to that of jake brake. The exhaust brake just blocks the flow of the exhaust. A jake will open and close the valves on the engine heads at different times to make the engine take power instead of make power. I would not settle for anything less...

yes, it is located up on the top of the trans. Easily acessable from the floor of the cab( especially on the ch/cl).

Got a reman T2130 trans in my 97 CH. In late October last year I swapped my trans (and clutch) out due to a fierce rumble when I got above 65 mph(and louder at faster speeds unloaded, while maintain or lightly accelerating). The noise was not constant but it went from quiet/no noise to loud and faded away to nothing about every 1-2 seconds. After finding all the metal filings and chunks of bearing(No BS) in the bottom, I opted it was time to put a trans in b4 I wrecked a $3K core, even if I was down 3 days during my busiest grain season. This noise I thought would go away with the new trans, but could still hear this noise. It was and still is about 25% as loud as the trans I took out. It has that pitted bearing noise. My trans did not make this noise 2 years ago. The reman company did not have one rebuilt waiting on the shelf but had a core that needed to be rebuild. I asked if they could have it done 2 days later or i was going to have to buy it from a competitor. They said no problem, we'll have done by then. I’m not saying that they missed something but is it plausible that a job rushed can have more chance for error?

The work that has been done when i took it in for warranty is as follows.....

all u joints inspected or replaced

first drive shaft and slip shaft inspected, repaired, and balanced including hanger brg

checked for metal in diffs-none (rear rear- new 1 year ago)

Intermediate shaft checked out

They think they may have traced it to the difference in tire height. They took my intermediate shaft off and locked the diff and drove it and the noise went away but any ch or cl owner knows the loud buzzer that goes off the whole time your diff lock is on that could have covered the noise. The tread is new on the rears and 65% on the front driver(LP 24.5). I read a post on here at one time about having to put all your higher tread tires on one side vs to the back on Mack axles. I have an air lock power divide if that makes a difference. Imp not sure if the work they did today with the int. shaft and u joints is going to help or not.

Any ideas b4 we pull the trans. Imp 75% sure that it is the trans(why would it be quieter but still there after a trans swap) but i am hoping to track down or eliminate all other possibilities quickly so i don’t lose any more loads during down time.....

Thanks

CURT

Reply here or email or call even to get more info....

Noid93@hotmail.com

715-495-9383 - Anytime

Check the rubber hose on the breather pipe especially right by the valve cover were it runs horizontaly. I had the section of rubber hose on the breather pipe right by the valve cover collapse and caused the blow by to accelerate through the orfice and made it look like a lot of blow by and scavange oil with it. It also made the crank case pressure a little higher than normal pushing oil and fumes out the filler tube and dip stick. I have saw it on 5 truck with 600,000 mi on it. My truck was breathing heavy out of the dip stick and filler tube also. Replaced the hose for bout 3 bucks. Easy fix....

Just something to check.

Check the rubber hose on the breather pipe. I had the section of rubber hose on the breather pipe right by the valve cover collapse and caused the blow by to accelerate through the orfice and made it look like a lot of blow by. It also made the crank case pressure a little higher than normal. I have saw it on every truck with 600,000 mi on it. My truck was breathing heavy out of the dip stick and filler tube also. Replaced the hose for bout 3 bucks. Easy fix....

I am looking to take a single axle tractor and make it a power unit. I need it to drive down the road at full speed(baiscally normal operation) pulling a tounge hitch piece of equipment. Then back this piece of equipent into a pit, hook the pto up(running at 1000 rpm using 300hp ) and use the engine as a drive unit. The problems are:

1) I need a transmission that will reverse the rotation of the drive shaft to 1.5 to 1. I know the twin stick mack trans will do that but it has a 4.27 to 1 ratio in reverse-high gear and cant spin the motor at 4270 rpm. I have a way to send power through an axle and disconnect power going to the wheels via the power divider. Is there a trans with that high of a reverese?

OR

2) Does anyone know of a cheap transfer case that will reverse direction on one output for the pto and maintain the same rotation for the axle driving down the road?

Thanks for all the help. Keep in mind that i require 300hp to do this and need stout parts...

CURT

From what i can tell, the injectors on the 1990 modle e6's(thats all the farther back my manuals go), the injectors are the same part number from the 300 to the 350 hp AS LONG AS THE BOTH HAVE BOSCH PUMPS. the ambac pumps use ambac injectors. The bosch use bosch. Which are the same part number. I would guess that the 87s and 88s would be similar.

your engine at 1800 rpm with the jake on high(with s3b or s4d turbo) should be building more than 7 pounds of boost according to the mack manuals. My truck that was factory at 400 hp( has a different turbo than yours) builds up to 14 psi with jake on high at high rpms.... max boost under load 28 to 35 psi(keep in mind my truck is chipped with a blixxton power module)..Your boost on load is perfect. 97 e7 @427------- 24 to 32 psi. Thats right out of the mack manual.

I have had my truck act similar. If i got into the acellerator hard it would lose all power for one second and then return as normal. My truck does it if i am putting excessive force on the accellerator pedal. If i am going up a big hill and by natural reaction i push down on the throttle way harder than is needed, as if it will give me just enough more power to make the hill without shifting down. It might not hurt to check the wires that connect to the acellerator and look for corrosion or a bad connection or even just a wire that is pinched. Hope this helps. Let us know what you find or what solved the problem....

Noid93

Performance Parts Depot has the best price on the Blixxton chip.... Thats where i bought it... $285 plus shipping.... click heavy equipment veihicles.... then more info at the bottom... and the blixxton mac is the one...

Any question, feel free to call...

CURT 715-495-9383

I dont belive that there is a difference between the dynatard valve cover and the regular covers... Just about any E6 cover should fit. If you need one bad, Maxville should have one, but there are probally more closer than up here in wisconsin...

Hope this helps...

CURT

I rebuilt my injectors on 97 ch and the compression washers that set betweens the injector tip and head that were given to me were old stock and had been updated to a narrower washer for a better seal. Anyway, i put the injectors in and there was a little carbon in the holes, and when i started the SOB, and sure enough, there was compression leaking into the drivers tank, the tank that draws and has the return line in it. I ended up getting the new style washers and cleaning the holes real good.

Sounds just like my issue. IF THERE IS A FOG OR HAZE IN THE TANK, THERE IS COMPRESSION IN THERE. Once i fixed the problem, the haze went away.

Or take off the retun line and see if there is only fuel coming back or if there is air in there too.. As you stated, mine built ALOT of pressure in the tanks...

I have seen some tank setups where there is no breather on the draw tank so it uses fuel out of the secondary tank first and then the primary tank. If compression is leaking back it must go out the secondary tank to escape out the breather, after it pushes the fuel out of its way.

There Can be a number of reasons, but the most common one i have found is:

Being an RB modle, i bet you have float tires. Float tires are so wide that if the wheels turned as far as possible to the right, they would rub on the drag link.

This is the most common reasons i have found on alot of trucks.

The only way to help this problem is to adjust the bump stops so the tires are closer to the drag link, but keep in mind when the suspension moves, the tires may rub and may wear out parts faster.

Hope this helps

Noid93

1/4 of an inch toe in would wear the outsides of the tires pretty quick. Im guessing theyre radial tires and radial tires should run very little toed in. Anywere from a 1/16 to an 1/8 of an inch.

When i checked the toe, i had the front axle in the air. From what i have heard, you are to check the toe with weight on the axle, drive ahead 10 or so ft, and not slam the brakes to or jar the suspension. If im thinking correctly, when i checked it it was less than 1/4 inch hanging, so by the time i put weight on it and such it should be 1/16 to 1/8.

To do a quick check like i did, with the wheels in the air, i painted a ring all the way around the tire tread with spray paint, held a flat screw driver on the paint very still while someone else rotated the tire to etch a line on the paint, then proceeded to check distance on the front of the tire and on the rear with a difference of <1/4 inch.

Let me know if this procedure sounds right.

wow thats alot of potatoes

Yeah that is alot of potatoes. My timpte trailer(72 in sides, 42 ft long, 96 in sides and ag tubs for ground clearance), is heaped plum full and can gross 92,000+/- 500 lbs every load. Anyway........

EXTRA EXTRA...... UPDATE

Today i installed new shocks, dismounted the tires, took out the equal(balancing powder), remounted with the wore sides in, had them spin balanced($60)??? with lead weights, installed centramatic wheel balancers, and bolted them back on. The very little shimmy i had when i went down the road between 55 and 65 has completely gone away. Tip of my hat to centramatic.. Great buy at $155. Upon inspection i ended up doing a wheel seal on the drivers side. I will try to keep you updated on how these mods work out.

Thanks for all your help everyone, BUT PLEASE DO NOT STOP ADDING TO THIS POST. EVERY THING MENTIONED I WILL LOOK AT AND LEARN MORE AND MORE FROM. ANY OTHER IDEAS, PLEASE PLEASE POST..

Thanks again,

Curt

NOID93

If anyone knows how to delete a double posting, let me know.

I am having problems with the front steer tires on my truck. The outside inch on both tires are wearng much faster than the rest of the tires. It just started to get bad on the last half of the tread on the steers. This is the research i have done. I have a 200 inch wheel base, and im not sure if the short wheelbase adds to these problems(especialy turning).

1) The tow in/out is towed in 1/4 inch(perfect)

2) King pins are tight, less than 1/32 of an inch play(jacked up the front axle and wiggled tires by inserting a bar in the holes on the rims)

3)Rear tires are not cutting/cupping in any excessive way.

4) The past two weeks we have been hauling potatoes about 300 mi one way across some very cupped roads(pavement has settled where your tires run) in excess of 90,000 lbs gross wt.. One to two loads a day.

5) The passanger side now has two flat spots next to each other on this outside inch.

6) My fifth wheel plate has been staying fairly well lubricated(lucas fifth wheel lube).

7) Im only carring less than 12500 lbs on the front axle every load consistanly.

8) It does not pull quickly in any direction if i let go of the wheel.

Is it just a set of poor tires being getting wore out, the cupped roads or where i drive on the roads(putting the pass tire on the edge of the hump in the road), or a combo...

I just here horror stories about trucks going to an alignment shop and them telling people the bushing are OUT in the rear end. By visual inspection, all my bushings are looking good in all the torque rods an adjusting rods. What does it mean to "have the bushings out????". I have a hendrickson air ride rear suspension. HAS 400 or similar.

If any body can tell me what to check or look at to see if i can diagnose this myself without a $1000 visit to an alingment shop i would appriciate it.

Thanks for your time guys...

CURT

NOID93

CHECK THIS OUT AND TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK. http://www.bridgestonetrucktires.com/us_en...ctor_wear.asp#2

I would first start at the solenoids.

1....Take the valve covers off, and with the engine running, push down on the top of one of the solenoids with your hand, if the engine labors, the flow of oil to the solenoid is good. Do the same to the other solenoid.

2....Jump power to the wires on the solenoids also. If the engine labors, the solenoids are working..(the solenoids on a negative ground system neeed to be charged with positve power to engage them)

3....Check for continuity between all the switches and components(micro switch on throttle and clutch) jump power one switch at a time to eliminate a bad switch

4....See if appling power to the dash switch engages the dynatard. If it does, then as you stated, there is no power at the switch. Check the wire going to the switch from the fuse panel

5.... The fuse pannel on a r600 is located behind the pannel directly in front of the passanger seat on the dash.(although they should be self reseting circut breakers)

That would be a start to diagnosing the problem.

I worked on a truck in Maxvilles shop that had a fully syncro'd tranny. Big sticker that said "always engage the clutch when shifting gears to prevent transmission damage". Early 90 s volvo (conventional set back axle heavy speced milk truck) with volvo engine and butterfly valve engine brake. Neat truck for those who desire that setup. THE ONLY FULLY SYNCRO'S TRANNY I HAVE EVER SAW, BUT THEY MAKE THEM!!!!!!

I have been told that the e-7 engines with v-mac have a tendency to rev and operate at full advance until oil pressue adjusts the timing in the injection pump when started cold at almost any ambiant temp. The colder it is, the longer it does this. I am wondering if there is any way to stop the rough running(adj timing manually) when i start it cold. I know im not the only V mac II owner who has this issue. Thanks for your time...

CURT