Mr Black

Great to see the effort your going to for the R600.

The rust around the top is fairly standard in tropical Queensland. Hard to keep it under control on non-galv cabs. 

Can't wait to see the finished job.

What a great drawing - he is very talented 

1 hour ago, Timmyb said:

I've never seen one either. 

If you really really wanted to do it, I guess you could cut away at the firewall to make room. It would be a ton of work. Be far easier to slide the cab back 12 inches and put an R700 or superliner bonnet on it. 

I think you are right - the firewall would have to be cut.

It's not something I particularly want to do - was just surprised when I saw the Youtube clip and it got me thinking. I am about to rebuild a Big Cam to keep as a spare for another truck and was curious whether it could go in the R686 if that engine goes first and I don't have time to rebuild it. I never thought a Cummins 855 would fit without moving the cab back until I came across this video (unless it is an L10 and they are calling it a Big Cam - must have a better look at the video). 

Looks awesome - nice work

Was the R600 ever offered with a Big Cam in the US? I don't believe it was here in AU. 

I wouldn't think it could fit without the R700/Superliner hood but there is a Youtube clip with a Big Cam powered RD600.

Would the cab have been modified or can you squeeze a Big Cam in by pushing it up as far forward as possible? 

I have never seen a Big Cam under a short Mack hood until I came across the clip. 

8 hours ago, BillyT said:

Mr Black I ran a MH 300 maxidyne and it seemed to have more than 300 hp Mack really nailed it when they engineered the whole maxidyne,triple countershaft series!

Agree 100%

Our 300 EM6 feels nothing like any other circa 300 hp engine I have come across. Must have bigger horses.

I was only leaning toward the tip turbine set up as I know the block and internals I have are from a 285. Not sure if there is any significant difference between the 285 and 300 (besides air cooling and pump)

14 hours ago, j hancock said:

The gear housing in front of the injection pump will be stamped so you can identify for sure what you have.  Will be better to make a plan if you know what the base is.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check that out. The previous owner is a mechanic and he believes it is the standard 237 pump but I will check to be sure

Just bought another R Model with an EM6.

Engine has been replaced at some stage and records suggest it has an EM6 285 block, but it doesn’t have any form of charge cooling and it still has the standard 237 pump.

Engine runs really nice but if I am going to work the truck (which I hope to do) I will need to get a bit more power out of it. Don’t need anything too extreme in terms of HP. We have an ’82 Coolpower and an ‘85 2V 300 Maxidyne, and I would be happy if I could get the 237 to be comparable to either of these.

Without pulling down the engine, any thoughts on the best way to get some extra power out of the 237? I guess the choices would be to convert to Coolpower specs (tip turbine etc) or add a front mounted intercooler. I assume I will need to upgrade the pump and turbo at the same time. Any other ideas or is one conversion easier than the other?

Keen to hear from anyone who has done or experimented with this.

I knew this day would come. Will have to check out what the story is for the future down here in AU.

Without trying to take over the thread, anyone had any experience squeezing a decent modern engine into a R600 and if so what?

On 10/30/2016 at 11:35 AM, Timmyb said:

I gotta recover my wood grain panels at some stage, but i gotta fill in a fair few holes first. My question is, does the vinyl stick to body filler or primer or is bare metal best?

I was doing the same thing but came across a guy in Queensland that laser cuts new panels and vinyl wraps them. A lot less painful than trying to patch and wrap old ones if you have a significant amount of damage/holes. I was really happy with how they came out. I am sure he would post to your side of the country. I can send you his details if interested.

Always pleased to see another R/RW Model saved.

Really nice work so far. It will be awesome when done.

8 hours ago, mackdaddy said:

I did just the opposite and it worked..........I put a steel dash in a +3 cab.

Wow, nice work!!

I am about to buy a R612 that needs its +3 cab replaced - the rust is beyond repair.

I was only planning to buy the truck for spare parts, but now don't think I can bring myself to wreck it, so will likely restore it. It has a good 237hp with 5 speed. I am not sure what to do with the truck, but I will work that out once finished.

I have access to a good pre-73 cab. Is it possible to fit a plastic dash to a pre-73 cab or is the front panel completely different?

I realise there will be less room with the plastic dash, but I am dealing with that another way. I am just curious whether I can fit a plastic dash before I take delivery of the cab. The cab is interstate so I can't check it out myself to work out whether it will take the dash.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

Can anyone please tell me if there is a trick to installing R Model hood badges/letters with the push on fasteners?

I can't seem to get them to secure to a standard that I am satisfied with.

Is there a trick to this?

I have not used any double sided mounting tape. Should I?

Hope someone can offer some insight.

Thanks

Truck looks great - good work.

Will be impressive in that colour with the polished wheels

I have come across a gearbox for sale stamped TR1070B.

Can anybody tell me anything about this box?

Is it a single stick 12 speed?

Thanks in advance

What a sad sight.

Would be a great service truck for someone with a Mack fleet.

I never see anything that good sitting in a scrapyard in Australia.

looks great - good decision

Nice looking RS - well done

Everything else I have replaced so far has been 12v so I suspect behind the dash will be too. Unfortunately can't test it with a multi at the moment as truck still substantially dismantled and without power.

Thanks all - heaps of helpful responses as always.

I never thought of having them restored. I have another truck that I would like to do this for (not a Mack, but it is of similar vintage to the R Model) so will try Howards.

My reasoning for trying to find the genuine ones for the Mack was so I could get the new dash in quickly without having to change a lot of fittings etc.

I might consider just buying a new aftermarket set and working through it.

Anyone know whether the power running to the dash gauges is 12/24v?

Thanks for the info - the OEM part numbers will be useful for sure.

I am in Australia so will have to stick to places that will accept electronic payment and will post. It is often easier to get parts posted from the US compared to trying to find them here.

Anyone know who made the gauges generally installed in mid 80s R Models as in the attached picture?

I am installing a new dash so will do the guages at the same time. Would be a lot easier if I can get new compatable versions to avoid changing fittings, senders etc.

Does anyone have suggestions for where I can get some new replacements on line?

Thanks

Anyone know who made the gauges generally installed in mid 80s R Models as in the attached picture?

I am installing a new dash so will do the guages at the same time. Would be a lot easier if I can get new compatable versions to avoid changing fittings, senders etc.

Does anyone have suggestions for where I can get some new replacements on line?

Thanks

These codes worked for me on a B-75 with L cab. Also found them to be an excellent match for E models.

Light color (dash, window reveal trim) 1989 Lexus, code 4EQ(9) K8581A Beige.

Dark color (door panels, heater box) 1980 Toyota, code 135 N7940A alt: 1 Grey.

stunning - very tasteful