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So the 1st gear fork is on the right side of his pic ? Didnt know what way he had the cover laying for the pic. The fork/rod would operate the same

Again, thanks for the pic. I turned the lights on to see it better….. Don’t know if that’s the 1st gear fork, but is there a detent ball in that location circled ? Does the rod slide in/out, or just the fork move on the rod ? I’m not familiar with this transmission internals, but that is what I’ve been thinking as a possibility. ??? If so, is there an exploded view of that boss and a detent ball ? Can the ball be deformed or flat spotted ? Just wondering. And what position is the fork and rod in, when in gear vs out on 1st ?

There is no problem getting into any gear. Only getting out of 1st when it decides to stick..

Sorry guys, on the road all day yesterday, will try to catch up. There is no resistance into or out of any gear (including 1 or R) with engine off as long as gears are aligned. No issue at all with Rev when running. Everything moves smoothly as expected, til it doesn’t out of 1st. The resistance to shifting from 1st does not feel to be a load caused by rotational gear friction… When it locks, you can repeatedly hit the shifter - hard, and it feels solid - no slippage even by applying / releasing drive load with the throttle. Feels like something physical blocking it, (except on the 2nd Tuesday of the week…..) No common action seems to cause it to release. Does not appear to be driveline torque, caused by a turn. Happens at any time. ‘I’m still thinking this is something kind of simple’ - I hope you’re right. Just haven’t figured it out. Again, it’s just a PITA, but starting in 2nd vs 1st when loaded is significant. Thx for your input.

Clutch is fully releasing.. can hold clutch in for as long as you want, and it will not release once it sticks. No it will not release w/o clutch.

No. Have not pulled or opened it as it’s my only tractor at the moment.

I wish I could say it’s consistent, but it’s not. It just gets you when you don’t expect/want it. On level or a down grade start, it will ‘usually’ stick..(except on the second Tuesday of the week). Aux low or high makes no difference.. If I put the aux trans in neutral first, it will release. But then you can get stuck in double neutral on the way to 2L. (1H to Aux L will not let you out of 1 to get to 2L) On a slight UPHILL start, it will usually release. ?? At very low speed <5mph, it will release. Repeated attempts to replicate with F/R, will ‘usually’ allow it to release in subsequent starts - hi or low. (Yes the trans oil is at full level, and you can travel long distance and still hang w next start, so lube should not be a problem) Makes no difference bobtail, or loaded towing. (Obviously don’t need 1st when bobtail, but it still sticks w no load) Just a PITA when towing loaded.

Thanks for that. Watched the video. What could be holding the first from disengaging 1st ? Didn’t see anything in the disassembly that would point to it resisting. When it does stick, it takes a couple of loaded clutch activations to let it release. Of course it always gets you when pulling into an intersection……

I have a ‘58 B-61 with a duplex transmission that wants to hang up in 1st gear. I suspect it’s a worn detent/ball. Does anyone have a parts manual with an exploded view showing the 1st detent area ? Would appreciate a pic of the page(s). Thx

That’s going to be a ‘22-‘24 AC with the wide radiator(s), and hood flutes, and flat fenders. Good truck, I have a ‘22 with a tilt bed instead of the box. Get the S/N from from the top of the left frame right by the hood latch. It will narrow it down Where in Illinois is it ? Thx

That SN does say the chassis is a early ‘26, but being a 4 cyl Jughead indicates it should be earlier, so just keep that in mind. The engine looks pretty complete, so you should not have a problem getting it going if the mag has spark. Stuck valves can be a problem, but easily accessed from the top and side if you don’t have good compression.

Based on the pic with the fender, it’s earlier than a 26. 26’s have smooth rounded fenders. Does the engine have a head on it or is it a jug head ? 4 cylinder or 6 ? Weight in that condition would be 8-9k looking at what is missing. The chassis from the factory would have been around 9+ depending on what wheels/tires it had on it. As suggested before, get the SN from the top of the left frame right at the front. It may be a bit worn as the hood sits right on it. Then contact the Mack museum using this online form https://www.macktruckshistoricalmuseum.org/contact-us/ They can tell you everything about that chassis from build sheet to who it was initially sold to. They can also provide you with just about any part print you need to restore it Having restored one starting about that condition, it’s doable at a reasonable cost if the engine is free, and you have most major components. Sheet metal components can be made. But you definitely have some work ahead of you.