br549

I would pack bearing with the semi grease like they use on trailer axles, works good in cold weather too, not your father's grease.

We clean good and put loctite on the plugs and we never had any come loose.

When you turn the key it pegged out and stays there.

I got 2 trucks 2008 CHU & 2009 CV713 oil pressure gauge was working alright and both started showing pegged out all the time about a week apart. When you turn the key on they go all the way over and does not return. The CHU had a new engine harness put on 9 months ago. The truck show no codes. Anybody know how to go about checking it out.

pulled the 7th injector this morning and it was clogged, cleaned and regen. temp got to 1150 degree and when done soot level went down to 6% and dpf diff was .07

thanks

Driver said he done 4 or 5 regen and lighting bolt came on. Hook up tech tool and shows mid128 ppid fmi 0, mid128 psid 47 fmi 12, both shows active. soot level show 144%. Started regen with computer it ran about 45 minutes, soot level did not go down and shows 6 regens now. Temp got to about 900 degrees. Diff pressure only shows 0.37. Before when regen would not finish it was 7th injector clogged up. It completes the regen but soot level does not go down. Any ideals?

Are you loosing much water? We have had some seep out of the big pipe plugs on top of the heads on the right side under the rocker arm, i think there are 2 in each head. Pull valve covers and look at them if leaking they will have a crusted stuff built up around them. Also if you have the long round oil cooler we had one we pulled the oil cooler and pressured check it and it showed good. We pulled the oil pan and pressured ck for sleeves leaking and showed nothing leaking. finally we pulled the oil cooler and pressured ck it again and took a rubber hammer and hit it a few times and it show bubbles around the oring end. We replaced it and it corrected the problem, i think after the truck was turned off the radiator still had pressure on it for a while and only leaked water in to oil. This truck would only loose a quart of water on a 1000 mile trip but would steam out overboard breather and have a grey milkshake on oil cap, but we also have had them leak around sleeves too. Good Luck

Found It. Battery cable nut backed off letting the cable with the breaker slide loose.

When it hits bump in road cruise kicks out, ABS light, ATC light, & lighting bolt comes on, also oil pressure drop back to 10 lbs and the regen switch comes only for 1 or 2 seconds and than everything is fine till another bump. When truck got in I cleaned out all the codes and drove it around the parking lot which is a little bumpy and it did it several times. I check the codes and it shows MID136 SID231 FMI 2 inactive, MID 136 SID FMI 14 inactive, MID 144 PSID 204 FMI 9 ACTIVE although the lighting bolt does not stay on, MID 144 PSID 230 FMI 4 inactive. Its as if you cut the key off for 1 second but only affect the oil pressure gauge all other gauges do not move. Any Ideals

Thanks

If he has had the truck for years and drives it for several miles loaded heavy and does not hear any loud popping then I wouldn't worry about it. If the ratios were different the power divider would have already wore out. We bought a used truck 25 years ago and the power divider started slipping, thinking it was just worn from missed match tires we just replaced it. It ran about 1 month and it wore out again. We checked the ratio stamped and they both said 4.17. We pulled the big side plate and counted ring & pinion teeth and one was a 4.17 & the other was a 4.50 ratio. So if I wasn't hearing a loud pop while loaded heavy the ratio should be the same reguardless of what it is stamped.

Is the 427 a ETech or E7 engine? ETech are metric threads & some of the E7 engines had some american threads & some had metric threads. If motors have been changed ck out bolt threads. We replaced a engine bell housing on an E7 and it had metric threads but the new bell housing came in with american threads, it seem's like there was a bulletin on this but I can't find it.

It is on a CXN Mack with the 70" high rise sleeper. We only use it to sleep in. The other one is on a 56" flat top sleeper it will last 10 -12 hours on the batteries on it. These are the older models system, I think the new models should do even better, but If you are going to have the truck running and charging the batteries I think it should do a good job. Running during the day we have a relay that charges the 4 additional batteries that run it when you shut the truck down. We run a 160 amp alt. We have not have a problem with them and they are used 4 nites a week in the spring thru fall. These Dometic are only 6000 or 7000 BTU units, I think the 13000BTU should do a great job, but you might have to put a higher amp alt.

We have one on a 70" sleeper for the sleeping system. It runs off of 4 12v batteries that charges up during the day and just runs on the batteries at nite When the batteries are new it will run for 8 hours in texas at nite and does a good job cooling the sleeper. works better and longer on up the east coast. As far as the unit goes, we put it on truck new in 2005 and one on another truck in 2009 and have done a good job and never had a problem with them other than battery replacements.

our 07 mp7 04 emissions had the exhaust gasket blow on it, it had the 1 style gasket that had the thick sealing bead around them, we replaced them with the metal gaskets. you could not hear them like the older macks and didnt show up as bad, we finally sprayed water around exhaust when cold and it showed up

Does it have a mack t200 or t300 mack transmission in it? If so it could be the sync assy or an air problem to the sync valve or cylinder o rings. It also could be the power divider slipping if it has mack rear ends in it. Have you put any new tires on it, if so is it when the problem started? Tires on mack rear ends have to be match up real close I have seen people put 4 new tires on one axle and leave worn out tires on the other axle and it will go down the road and make a big pop & you think the transmission is coming out.

On the mack transmission it should in the shift cap behind the gear shift. See if you have a wiring diagram in the fuse panel box door on the dash on passenger side and get the wire for the torque limit switch and trace it down it should be around the top of transmission.

You should have more turbo pressure. Have you checked the fins on intake and exhaust on the turbo? put a plug on the air charge cooler on the right side and put about 35 lbs of air pressure on the system and you can ck the cooler, intake manifold, and the tube at back of intake manifold that goes to the air compressor intake for leaks. If no leaks and no exhaust manifold gaskets leaking I would lean toward the turbo. Have you checked if it has a torque limit switch on the transmission, it could be bad. if you have one just unplug it and see what happens. I had a truck that was low on power but did not have the torque limit switch on the transmission but somebody had the transmission out and when they went back with it plugged the harness in to the air dryer harness. unplugged it and it was fine. You need more turbo pressure.

Should be the Robert Bosch pump, the only pump the E-7 used

Sound like it could be a tooth off a ring gear and pinion. Try driving it empty and roll down the window and leave it in 4th or 5th and let it coast down to a low speed and listen for clicking. That is a quick way we check out to see if its in the rear ends. If nothing shows up we put the rears up on stands and run the truck in high gear and listen for the noise. Be sure to remove all rocks from the rear tires if you do this.

good luck

We changed several over to the 1 piece saddle with the pressed in steel and rubber bushing. They hold up a lot longer,sorry dont have part # but any mack dealer should have it.

The recirulating valve in front of turbo had air pressure holding it open. Replaced the control valve on left lower side of the motor that controls it. Been a couple of weeks so far so good.

r

Had a couple of truck doing that and it was a bad radiator cap.

That screw in the picture is the switch that controls the Dyntard engine brake. Pump usually has to be removed and sent to a pump shop to fix it.

Truck running good driver did sitting regen. Truck feels like it is derated, no lighting bolt. Ck for codes found 128 pid173 fmi0 inactive 20x, 140 sid 253 fmi 2 active but no lighting bolt on. clear codes 140 still stays active. Checked soot level at 19%. Drove bobtailing truck about 30 miles turbo pressure would never go over 7 lbs exhaust would go to 800-1000 degree on hill. Came back ck soot level was 30%. Ck DPF pressure and ok. Truck will barely pull itself.

We have tested before and showed good when they seep and replaced it later and cure the problem. A remack oil cooler is reasonable price. I would replace it.