Milaca

If your diesel fuel is a biodiesel blend like we have here in Minnesota, then you need to use an additive. If it is pure diesel, it will be fine without additive. I would disconnect the battery cables to prevent battery drain and to prevent terminal corrosion. Put a coffee can or other such container over your exhaust stack to keep water out and make sure that your coolant contains enough anti-freeze.

Holy cow, if he gets that much for it, I'll be kicking myself for not buying it when I had the chance.

Great looking tractors! I have a Massey-Harris 22 that my dad gave me, that I learned to drive as an 8 year old. I dont see any 22's in your photo but see some rare models with gold engines.....is one a 333 and the other a 444? I intend to restore my 22 some day as I have begun purchasing some parts for it off of Ebay. Seeing that you are in Indiana, I will also mention that I have several Studebakers from the 1960's. I was in South Bend this summer with a 1964 Daytona convertible and had a great time.

Thanks for sharing the photos, I really appreciate it.

What model of L-cab Mack is that red truck? It looks awesome as does the black B-75!

The 'B' is for Beautiful!

I would install something that would make the truck useful, even if only slightly useful. I like dump trucks, but a flatbed with a headache rack would be good too. The flatbed could be made with stake pockets for the addition of removable sides if ever so needed or desired. If that doesnt tickle your fancy, then install a hot tub on there.

Looks like I got my terminology wrong. I guess they are connected 'parallel' as the positive is connected to positive and negative to negative giving me only 12 volts.

When I purchased my 1964 C-600, the only way to start it was by pull-starting it with another vehicle. I installed two new 12 volt batteries in series (its a 12 volt system) but didnt get any current into the cab, and the starter would not do anything even when I bypassed the solenoid. I removed the cables from the starter motor, cleaned the cable ends and terminals with fine sandpaper and reinstalled them. I bypassed the solenoid and it spun over great. Next I jumped the ignition switch terminal on the solenoid to the output terminal on the solenoid and it turned over then too (telling me that the solenoid was good). Next I removed the ignition switch from the dash, unplugged it, then plugged it back in. I turned the key and the starter engaged and the volt meter came to life! Apparently I had corrosion on the ignition switch terminals too. Though none of the electrical connections looked very corroded, they were just dirty enough to prevent anything from functioning.

Looks good. You may want to incorporate a piece of rubber into your design. Constant vibration will will eventually break that single three eights bolt.

Yeah, you're probably correct. I'll look at some of my dad's trucks and see how they are fastened. I hope to have the pond finished this coming Sunday as the high temperature will be below freezing after that for a long time. If the truck holds together, I may get it done.

Saturday morning I finished the exhaust stack project on the C-600. A previous owner removed the original stack, perhaps because of rust or because of clearance issues with the addition of a gravel box. I ordered 4" diameter 409 stainless elbows and clamps from Summit Racing and bought a 409 stainless, 70" long stack through Ebay. (I can post prices if anyone is interested) The UPS fella dropped everything off at my door on Wednesday and come Friday afternoon, I had time to begin.

Before the stack:

Fabricating some parts to mount the stack, including a 1/4" thick steel bar that I bought at the local hardware store which I formed in my bench vise. The exhaust clamp I modified to insert a 3/8" diameter hex bolt:

Now with a stack, after removing the unused battery box to give me additional clearance. It could use a little tweaking but it works well:

Here is how the stack cab mount looks, I wanted some flexibility to prevent things from cracking:

I ordered an extra long stack so that I could cut off some pipe to be used between the bottom most elbow and run up behind the fuel tank. The remaining pipe became the stack. I didnt weld anything as I was concerned that I might screw it up and have to cut it back apart. I was able to use the existing flex pipe and simply cut it to a shorter length. I used a u-bolt clamp near the fuel tank bracket in case I decide to make a bracket to attach the stack to the fuel tank bracket. I may change it to a band clamp as it all seems fine so far after having hauled 30+ loads of dirt this weekend.

I dont think I'll be getting back there anytime soon, unless my truck breaks down....

As for W models in the yard, I only saw one. Perhaps he has a stash of more trucks elsewhere??

Nice truck Superdog! When are you inviting the Mack Forum over to visit your outdoor Mack museum?

Believe it or not he's he has computers in his office and a smart phone even.

I guess I shouldnt be surprised by that. At 82 years old, he is still doing diesel truck service calls plus operating his mechanic shop. Long live Arden!

I think this is the only pic of the truck that I havent already shared here. I should have taken the time to open the door and climb in as I am curious what it would be like to sit behind the wheel in a truck like this.

Is Arden selling you his lawn art?

I believe all of the two-cycle GM diesels had a blower but only some models had a belt-driven blower.

Here is the ad for anyone that is interested. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/3409617293.html

If the guy still has it next year, I may be interested in it.

I just did some research and thanks to a previous posting by Superdog, I learned that the B-755 came with a Mack 864 V8 engine and was available with your choice of B cab or L cab. So, I assume this truck is less valuable for having a Cummins transplant (I also learned that a 262 is simply a typical 220 with the addition of a turbo) but I assume that the L cab option is very rare. Is this correct?

No opinions on what it might be worth? The fella is asking $6500 for it. Seems a bit high to me (I only paid scrap metal price for my C600), but what do you fellas think?

Nice find! So what is the story with the engine? It came from the factory with a Chrysler Hemi?

This truck is for sale about 50 miles away from me. One of my favorite truck models (love that L model cab and big chrome grill). How much do you think/feel this truck is worth? Looks like it's been sitting a while judging by the photos.

Here is what the ad says:

262 cummins, 220 turbo quad with a 3 way transmission

10 vent aluminum wheels, Camel back read suspension.

New batteries runs!!!

What do they mean by "read suspension"? Do they mean 'road' suspension, as in it is not made for off-highway use? I thought all Camel-back suspensions were good for off-highway use. What is a "220 turbo quad"? Is it a 262 Cummins with a turbo from a 220 Cummins? I assume the quad refers to a 4 main & a 3 speed auxillary transmission, but I thought a 5 speed was always used in these applications.

I doubt that he has email. I doubt he even has a computer being that the bill I got from him two weeks ago was hand written.

I look forward to the completion of this as I am sure it will look great! I agree with some of the others though, you might be better off without the muffler as it will hide the sound of the turbocharger (and you wouldn't want that!). Twenty years ago I drove a 1976 International Loadstar 1850 tandem axle gravel truck (for my dad's excavating business), powered by a International DT466 with a 13 speed Fuller and it had a straight pipe. Every time I would shift, it let out a loud whine from the turbo (similar to the sound of an air-starter). I remember when my dad drove the truck, I would be at home and hear him coming from two miles away because of the turbo whine whenever he would shift gears. I love that sound!

Mixing up fuel tanks is normal if you're just starting to use a truck.

My both R's have each one operatable tank, of coure I need to remember what of every time I want to start any of them.

It appears that the only reason for not using the driver-side tank is that the crossover fuel line leaks. I will likely replace the crossover line and then be able to use both tanks...although with the high price of fuel, I can barely afford to fill one tank. I dont know how many gallons each holds, maybe 75 gallons? I suppose I could measure the tanks and calculate the volume but I prefer to guess.