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Firemack

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Posts posted by Firemack

  1. Mack b53,

    You can find most of your parts here on this site, under the B model store- the site is hosted by Watts Mack and they have plenty of experience and knowledge with B model parts. If you cannot find the part you need in the B model store then post what you need and most of the members on the site can help you find it- if it is still available or have it rebuilt if needed. You can find the paint code for the Mack B model green if you do a search on the posts on this site then have it mixed at your local auto paint supply.

    Firemack

  2. Blue Point FD

    John Wolfe & Co. will make a new sending unit- Cost is about $95. Phone number is 440-942-0083. You can send the old sending unit and the gauge and they will test and repair or make a new unit for you if needed. Takes about 3 weeks turnaround.

    Firemack

  3. 62bmack,

    Some Mack Fire trucks do have dual fuel pumps, one electric pump at the tank and the mechanical pump on the engine. Our 1954 B75F has only has one mechanical pump on the engine so that is the one I was monitoring as it would run but then run out of fuel when under load.

    Firemack

  4. Luke,

    Most guys here have sent them out for a rebuild, the cost is about $100, and it is hard to find the right parts to do it yourself. I used Arthur Gould in New York $109, they did it right the first time- no problems at all.

    Firemack

  5. Hi Luke,

    Welcome , we have a prety good bunch of Firefighters (or retired firefighters) and their trucks (and retired firetrucks) on the site, plus plenty of help from the general truck forums, watch out for a few of the really helpful guys like ROB and Other Dog!

    Firemack

  6. 62Bmack

    I had a similar problem with our B75 Pumper, I added a T in the fuel line and connected a fuel pump pressure gauage to monitor to fuel pump pressure while driving the truck, it ran out of fuel and the pressure dropped going up long hills, I sent the pump out to Kanter (in NJ) and had it it rebuilt for $88 and reinstalled it, since then never had the fuel presuure drop again. Problem solved. Maybe just to be safe send it out for a rebuild now anyway and then you know that is not the problem (if it has not already been rebuilt by a reputable shop). One other item to check is the fuel filter, I did have it run out of fuel with a clogged fuel filter, change that first and see if that is the problem before changing the fuel pump.

    Firemack

  7. Our B75 Pumper was always hard to steer from the first day it was delivered. Just use the old armstrong steering! Goes good with the 2-35 air conditioning (2 windwos down- 35 MPH)

    Seriously- You might consider going to radial tires as they have lower rolling resistance and should make it much easier to steer,

    Firemack

  8. ATL Mack

    For the 1970-1980 period, The CF Mack is most desireable, then R, then MR. Engines- the best would be a 350 HP turbo w/automatic and all Macks from that period will have a waterous pump. The best pumper body would be Full Mack Pumper body, however most other brands are available as Mack refurbs, Pierce, E1, American Lafrance etc. all have been refurbed on Mack chassis. Look for rust at the cab behind the front wheels and wheelwell, above the rear wheel and compartments just in front and behind the rear wheels. 300 HP is a good engine and the 237 is also good but not much on power. Some cabs are canopy cabs, some were built like FDNY 4 door enclosed cabs, and some were refurbed to look like the FDNY cabs.

    Post pictures of trucks you are looking at and there are members on this site that can help you evaluate the truck.

    Firemack

  9. Mackahoulic,

    Welcome, we have plenty of fun on the site, check out the recent painting going on at Rob's neighbors house. I think Mike forgot to ask if you like paiting with small paintbrushes at Rob's neighbors house!

    Firemack

  10. Michael,

    A. The B68 standard engine is a 540 Cubic inch gas engine.

    B. You should have a 10 speed transmission, duplex, which is standard in most Mack's for that time, it will need to be double clutched to shift. Their are some posts on the site that go thru the shift patterns with a load and without a load.

    C. You can get the owners manuals -lots of time they come up on Ebay- I paid about $30 for the little green manual- in addition you should write to the Mack Museum in Allentown PA and request all of the background on your truck, (make sure to include a donation for the time and work).

    D. In PA you do not need a CDL to drive the truck if it has PA Classic or Antique plates. You cannot legally haul any trailer with a load- however most law enforecement in PA will not stop you with a hobby load for personal use. The best thing to do is get it registered as an antique if you only plan to drive during the daylight hours, also you don't need any PA inspection with an Antique tag. If you want to drive at night, then you need a classic tag and requires a once a year PA inspection. Either way make sure you inspect the truck anyway to make sure it is safe and the brakes are good. I have heard of several hobbyists that ignored the brakes and ended up taking a thrill ride they didn't forget, as these trucks are heavy without a trailer or load, so I always recommend checking the brakes out first before driving it!

    Good luck and hope to see you driving it in PA to one of the shows, Macungie is a great show here in PA that you can't miss.

    Firemack

  11. 16390

    Mack used a company in PA called York Corrugating to make many of the rolled fenders.

    post-121-12557041072561_thumb.jpg

    These were used used on many L and B model fire pumper bodies. Looking at your H model fenders they look very simlar to the rolled design used on the fire pumper fenders. York Corrguating is still making fenders and fenderettes. They still have all of the original roll wheels etc to make these fenders and make them for many of the firetrucks and trailers you see on the road today. See the info with the typical fenders they make.Contact Jeff Smith at 888-922-6634 ext 253.

    Hope that helps,

    Firemack

  12. Andy

    Found another E series , a 1945 Mack Type 45 Pumper still in use at Newportville Fire Company in Pennsylvania.

    Here is a link a picture of the truck on their website: http://newportvillefireco.tripod.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=560&linkpath=http://www.newportvillefireco.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/hpim0866.jpg.w560h420.jpg&target=tlx_new

    Still runs, pumps and looks good, going to a muster in Philadelphia with this truck next Sunday.

    Just wanted to make sure it was on the list. Will get more info later

    Firemack

  13. Gary,

    Sounds like you need another mechanic, there is no such animal as a dual timing light. I just finished tuning a 707C in a 1960 B95. You might want to consider changing over to electronic ignition to improve the performance and remove any chance of the points and condensor causing any problems. I used a Pertronix electronic ignition module for a 12 volt positive ground system. The parts are still available at NAPA but I like the quality of the parts from Brillman Company- he uses all brass fittings etc. I still purchased plugs from NAPA- AC R45. The points, condensor, (or electronic ignition module), cap, rotor and wires, I purchased from Brillman Company in Mt Jackson VA. Contact John Brillman at 540-477-4112, he is a nice guy, and you may see him a the VA truck meet as he has an old Autocar tractor.

    Once you install the ignition parts you will need a regular timing light attached the positive (red lead) and negative (black lead) of the battery (and the timing lead connected to number one spark plug wire on one of the distributors at a time). The timing light does not need to reversed for positive ground and will most likely ruin the timing light if not correctly connected. You can use a engine dwell tach or engine analyzer with the red lead connected to the primary wire of the distributor (Ground) and the black lead connected to the ignition hot at the coil. This can then be used to set the dwell (if you decide to use points and condensor) or to monitor the engine rpm to set the idle mixture and idle speed. Timing on a 707C is done on the flywheel under the truck not on the front pulley. You set the dwell and then set the timing. Do one distributor at a time and it makes it easy to get the truck started (on the one you have not changed) and then adjust the timing on the one you just updated. After setting the dwell and timing on both then set the idle mixture for the highest idle speed, then reset the idle speed. I usually set the idle at about 600 rpm but can be set as low as 350 if you like it there.

    If you mark the wires and send them to John Brillman he makes the original style (Packard 440) wire sets in the exact size of the wire set you send him and is reasonably priced (a little more than Napa). This way you have an exact replacement wire set and not some mix and match from a parts catalog.

    The B95 pumper now runs great and just went to it's first show in 18 years.

    Good Luck,

    Firemack

  14. MoRiver,

    I did some research before we bought back our B75 Mack Pumper. Tracking down about 10 B model firetrucks that had sold in the previous year, the high was $12,000 the low was $1000, the median was $5000. Discounting for rust and pump repairs, I would estimate your truck should be valued between $3500-$4500. From the pictures I can see the truck has some rust repair needed as well as rechroming as it must of been outside and see that the interior gauges also have some rust and are weathered.

    We have had 3 models sell nearby in the last year, a 1958 closed cab like the one you have sold for $5000 this past month, an open cab that had been outside for a few years sold for about $5000, and a another open cab parade winner with lots of options and all the gear still on the truck including boots, coats, helmets etc, sold for $15000- it had no rust and had never been outside.

    I hope that helps- see if we have any other feedback from others on the site that may have seen other B model firetrucks sold in their area.

    Firemack

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