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Once I get my "care package" from the musuem and have the return address I'll be sending them a check for sure. Sounds like they go out of their way to get you all the info they can find. I don't have anything at all with the truck, no owners manual, shop manual, nothing. Only piece of paper I got was a title! Jason

Thanks for the compliments... Ya it does seem like most of the trucks I've seen for sale, and shows I've seen are all out east. I'm rewiring the truck so its going to be straight 12v so no worries about the LEDs. I'll have a pic of the completed gauge panel in a couple days once all the wiring and switches are installed. The original wiring on the truck had been hacked into and repaired so many times it was just a birds nest behind the dash, and after looking at the wiring diagram, it seemed pretty over complicated anyway. All it has to do is run headlights, tails and turn signals... Hell there isn't a wire going to the engine anywhere other than whats coming off the generator! Besides the new loom I'll be installing an updated fuse panel with ATO type fuses. Jason

Already contacted the museum I'm wating for my package to come any day. The battery box is rusted out and falling apart, I'm going to cut it off and make a new one, probably out of diamont plate alum. Also planning on stripping and polishing the tanks. Jason

Aright, I'll use this thread, I changed the title. I'll start with a little background, I've always loved old semi trucks and have never seen one in my area at a car show, driving down the road, or in person anywhere pretty much. Very few of them left in the midwest it seams. I ended up finding this truck on my local craigslist only 20 miles from my house! Ended up buying it and it drove onto the trailer under its own power! Brakes didn't work though... I've had the truck for a couple weeks now, so far I've gotten the brakes working, removed a bunch of old wiring and old battery cables, along with extra air lines that went no where down the chassis, and started re-wiring the truck. I just finnished restoring the gauges and gauge panel and am starting to fab up a new wire loom now. The starter has been rebuilt to 12V so I can do away with the 12-24v solenoids and associated wiring. I also got 50 years worth of crud power washed off the chassis and managed to get it painted while we were having some crazy warm weather last week. I'm not going for a #1 restoration here, more like a weekend fun time driver, with a few custom touches (my own paint scheme and color choices). I'm not a real stickler for originality but I'm not planning on chopping the truck up either, just making it my own. Sorry the pics aren't the best, my phone was having issues. I'll have more pictures shortly, I should have the rear light plate made up soon, which will be polished diamond plate with flush mount LED lights. Should look sweet! Pics: When I got it home, after power washing: Chassis after paint: Gauge panel before: Gauge panel after: I couldn't get the small gauges apart the bezels were really difficult to get off so I gave up rather than ruining them. I did manage to clean them up a little by using cleaner, a tiny screw driver and small pieces of paper towel... Came out pretty well I think! Jason

I was going to post up some pictures and progress as I restore my '59. Should I post in this forum or is there somewhere else I should post it? Thanks, Jason

Thanks for the help guys, I got the screws back in and the window unjamed. Def a different way for a door to come apart compaired to what I'm accustomed to! Jason

I searched but didn't come up with anything on door panel removal on a B series. I'm sure its in the manual but I'm still waiting on my package from the Mack museum. I took all the screws out of the door panel, removed the window crank and door handle, but its still attached somehow. I don't want to go pulling and beating on something and end up braking stuff. Both of my door latches are frozen in the open position, it would be nice to get the doors to latch! Thanks, Jason

Contacted the museum yesterday hopefully should get a nice packet in the next week or two. Jason

Ya not looking to melt it down... I changed the filter and it made no difference. I'm not looking to max it out I know how egts skyrocket with lots of fuel and no extra air from a turbo to clean up the fuel and keep things cool. Also should mention I won't be towing anything heavy with it and probably most of the time I will just be bobtailing it anyway. Thanks Jason

Freightrain: Looked at the pump its a Bosch though I couldn't make out the numbers.. is there more than one bosch pump or do you know what to adjust to get more fueling? Thanks, Jason

Ok sounds good making a new diaphram shouldn't be too big a deal. Get that leak sealed up and see what kind of air pressure I can make. Is there a min air pressure @ RPM that the truck should make? Thanks, Jason

Here is what i'm talking about, looks like i have the regulator mounted at an angle behind this thing, you can see it in the background. As you can see in the pick a chunk of the diaphram has bown out. It runs over to the shutter valve but I don't see it in the air system schematic that I have to even know what it does. ***update** I just went outside and rechecked, it has supply air comming from the junction block just below it thats mounted to the firewall. The braided hose runs over to the shudder valve t-stat assembly thats mounted to the top of the engine. Jason

Mine doesn't look like either one. I assumed it wasn't making more than 45 psi because it was leaking and bleeding off pressure. Is that a universal type setup or is it something i have to get that b-model specific? Thanks, Jason

Oh ok well I do have the tractor protection valve... I guess I didn't understand the schematic correctly. My slippery road valve has been disconnected under the cab though, I can't tell where it was connected. I farted around with my old valve last night and upon taking it apart, found all the seals to be in great shape! I actually got it free and reinstalled it. I've got to fix a leak that comming from some type of diaphram valve assembly on the pass side fire wall. The system is only making about 45 psi when I fast idle the engine. Looks like the valve is plumbed into the shutter valve for the grill. Jason

Cutting back and converting to the plastic lines sounds like it would make things MUCH easier. The hose and fittings looks to be very reasonable. Thanks for the schematic! looks like its a little more complicated than what I've got going on, I don't have the spring brake setup (thats the air parking brake right?) and I also don't have the tractor protection controll valve along with the spring brake controll. My dash has the tractor protection valve which I assume is to turn the air on for the trailer, and it has the slippery road valve to turn off the front brakes. Where is the regulator on the truck and how do I know if its working correctly? Is the Bendix E3 valve the one most people use are do you guys have another recomendation? Thanks, Jason

Also where can I find a air brake schematic for a simple system? I downloaded the bendix air brake handbook but it has all info on new much more complicated setups with ABS and whatnot. I would like to delete the trailer air brakes to remove some clutter as the truck isn't going to be pulling a actuall tractor trailer, at the most maybe a gooseneck type flatbed but it will be electric brakes. Thanks for any help. Jason

Thanks for the suggestion.. The valve is junk though I broke the bolts off in it trying to get it off. Its also VERY corroded. Looks like the E7 valve is supposed to be firewall mounted so that wont work. I looked at a E3 valve and it looks the same as mine but its smaller and the ports are in a different orientation. I can't find a cross to the number thats on my valve. Its 236969. Thats the only stamping/marking on the valve I can find. It also has a wide two bolt pattern to bolt the valve to the pedal, and the main air supply comes in from the bottom. I'm sure I could make another one work but I hate to have to cut and move all these copper lines. What a pain in the ass! Jason

I found a Bendix reman one on anythingtruck.com for $64.00. Sounds good to me! Thanks for the help. Jason

Is a E3 the standard replacement now? I'm not worried about getting the exact original valve for it, I just want to get the brakes going. As I said i was hoping not to have to spend $369 just on that one piece! I'm going to need to replace air lines, some fittings, etc as well. Jason

I'm looking for the treadle valve for my '59 B61. Its froze up. Can anyone recomend a supplier for just a replacement valve? I see Watts lists a whole pedal assembly but its $369 which seams kinda pricey, when I'm seeing valves around $100 to $150. My pedal and mounting is in ok shape so I don't really need all that. Thanks, Jason

Thanks for the link and thanks for the offer dieselerock! If the Mack Museum can supply me with the service manuals along with the owners manual I would rather get it from them and send a donation. If not that is exactly what I'm looking for, and $40 sounds more than reasonable for 200+ page manual. Jason

Thanks for the info... I'm sure the owners manual will have the info but alot of times stuff from the 40s and 50s is outdated and specifies weights of oil that aren't even available anymore. I didn't just want to go dump 15-40 in and assume its ok since most diesels take it, I know Detroits need to have straight weight oil for example, so I just wanted to be sure. I've never worked on a diesel this old. I'll have to go look and get some numbers off the pump. Definently gonna start looking for some 22.5" dayton wheels. Jason

Thanks for the response. I tried contacting the museum but they are closed untill next week. I'm hoping they can set me up with some good info, I have heard they are great to deal with. I haven't got any pictures yet, but I'll get some up. Its a single axle with the concave cab. One other question to add, what is involved to change the wheels to a newer 22.5" setup? Tires would be much easier to find and less expensive. Jason

Hey everyone, new to the forum and vintage Mack trucks. I just bought a '59 B61 with the 673 diesel. I have been searching this forum and the internet in general but haven't come up with much good info on the engine. I don't have any paperwork or manuals with the truck. It runs but I would like to start out with changing all the fluids/tune up type maintenance. What weight oil is recomended for these engines? Capacity? What about oil type and capacity for the transmissions? Its a 5+2. I was also hoping to find some info on the injection system but have come up dry on that as well. I think the injection pump could use some adjusting, it seams like its very underfueled... No smoke at all and the truck is pretty gutless. Most of the videos I have seen, they do push some smoke. I think with a little more fueling it would be a little nicer to drive. I didn't just want to go start turning screws on the pump though. Also any recomendation on a place to purchase a repair manual? Thanks for the help, Jason