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thomastractorsvc

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Posts posted by thomastractorsvc

  1. The puff limiter set up has avalve located on the manafold and a air valve located on the front pump.  Follow the air line.  The valve located on the end of the pump is what needs to be removed as it holds the rack from opening and needs to be shimmed properly.  It may be stuck open or not shimmed properly.  That will prevent the rack from opening and will not allow boost to build.

  2. I was wondering if it was a regional thing based on bridge weight or something like that.  I seen a  pictures on the internet with a pusher in front and tag on rear looked like a michigan set up.  As long as the the tag was down when dumping I cant see what the issue would be unless it may get tippy but with two axles spring suspension in the front I would thik it would be to bad unless it was like a 19 or 20 footer.

  3. I was talking with a couple companys about extending my frame on the 92 Superliner to accomadate a 16ft bed.  After the adding the couple of feet they were going to roll the axles back and redrill and put a lift axle in front.  While taking a shower I was thinking about all the pulp trucks I ran years ago most were spring lift or mounted so that when weight was put on the truck it would compress the suspension for the added capacity.  Also most of the mixer trucks around here have tag axles unless they have the strong arm then its that and a pusher.  

    Has anyone seen a tag axle triaxle dump? 

  4. I cleaned the frame and the mounting brackets like Rob said.  I then painted before assembly.  The last one I did aluminum frame, 1978 Superliner,  I bought some black liquid spray plastic and sprayed some of that over the paint not sure if it will help have to wait and see.

     

  5. When I get a chance I will see if I can find the number and put air to the valve.  Yesterday it didn't look like there were any shims between the pump and the air cylinder.   Of course until I get it out it is hard to say and the air conditioner pump makes it hard to crook your neck in for a good look.

    I guess what i will do is look for the stamp and measure the trow of the new cylinder and by the right number of shims than replace the puff limiter at the same time then everything should work like factory.

  6. I finally bought a new Puff Limiter valve and air cylinder.  Yesterday I changed the Puff limiter and thought I would see how that made things run since after messing with the old one the smoke dyed down for awhile than it came back hence the ordering of the parts.

    This morning when I was headed to a job site the truck did not blow any smoke out the exhaust no matter how hard I mashed the gogo pedal so I figured that must be the problem.  About 3 miles from home I was finally getting into the taller gears and it acted liked it was stalling so I held it to the floor the RPMs started to slowly rise and the boost never got above 20lbs and the pro holding steady on 700.  I made it onto I 70 thinking well maybe I need to get used to it but when she hit high gear she dogged out like it was starving for fuel boost still at 20 and the pyro holding steady between 600 and 700.  I hit the next exit and headed back to the shop I pulled inside cranked on the heater and put the old valve back on.  Took about 10 minutes then headed out Boost was immediately back to normal, black smoke when I got hard on it and boost topped out around 32 or 33 and pyro holding steady around 400.

    Obviously the air actuator valve must not be shimmed right so when the new Puff Limiter valve was working it held the rack partially closed.

    I guess my question is how do measure and shim the air cylinder and once I do get it right will it still make the truck doggish?  I have learned to run the truck with out making it smoke bad by throttle control but wanted to see it fixing it would save on fuel.

  7. 14 hours ago, Timmyb said:

    My truck would do something similar. If I parked on a lean the fuel would run to opposite side to pick up. Problem was my pick up tube was cracked.

    Hopefully yours is as simple as that. 

    The previous owner already replaced everything to the pump and even got the fuel gauge to work.  I have been busy and we got snow so I have been keeping the Dump in the shop with my pickup so probably Monday or Tuesday if I am not working I will pull the truck in the shop and check it out.  I know on some newer cats they have 2 or 3 check valves that are located in a couple different spots and if you didn't know you never find them.  Being its a VMac I don't have a service manual yet.

  8. Fixing to tinker on the new dog.  I spoke with the previous owner by calling a number I found in the cab.  Nice guy.  

    Any how he mentioned that if the truck is parked on a angle it will loose prime and he replaced all the hoses the transfer pump and filter housings to see if he could fix it.  If it sits on the level no issues.  I went and checked some stuff and then parked it on an angle and sure enough lost prime after about 2 days 1 day was able to start 2 days cranked about 20 seconds cracked the line and no fuel I pumped it up and it fired.  

    He said he replaced the transfer pump thinking it was that but I am not sure if it is missing a check valve some where.

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