thomastractorsvc

Coming together

How long does it usally take to put something like this one together? 

looking good

What did you use to drill your holes I have drilled a couple and always end up fighting it.

Can you send that transmission to des moins, and have Rick bring it back for me?   If we go its going to be a day trip only.

Thoses were the ones.  I guess at one time Superdog tried to buy them also but they were not willing to sell.  When I looked them over I dont think they had ran in several years

Couple years ago 3 sequence numbered ones went up for sale at auction most they brought was around $1500 one went to Canada the other two were cut up 

I tried to buy one and offered $3000 if I remembered right before they went to auction 

That needs to be donated to a museum 

probably need to be a millionaire to buy it

if Stant doesn't list one probably not.  Give them a call in the morning to double check.

On 5/7/2017 at 4:43 AM, dickbuick said:

Comment on the hub oil

Packing the bearing with grease is always nice

I like to tilt the rear after filling it and let the oil run out to the hubs splashing out takes a long time sometimes to long

How are you supposed to get the silicone to set up if you have the oil leaking all over them?  the Mack service manual said to jack it up and let it run it was easy enough.  No leaks and been running all week.

On 5/7/2017 at 11:19 PM, harrybarbon said:

Hi Thomas

We are in the process of rebuilding a 1985 Neway ARD 238-6 suspension. We need to replace the all bushes and fittings, etc on all 3 sections, that is the frame hangers, equalizer beams and transverse beams and both sides of the suspension. Your pictures and information here is just in time for us. The maintenance manual is also very helpful.

2 questions please,

1/ The kit you paid $138 for the transverse beam, did this include the 4 split / beveled (wedge shaped) steel bushes and the 4 rubber bushes and other parts? If the beveled steel bushes are not in the kit, do you know if they are in stock/supply? Our transverse beams beveled steel bushes are history - rusted and we had to oxy/cut them to disconnect the transverse beam and equalizer beams.

2/ What was the supply time, from time of ordering the kit to receiving and did you buy direct from SAFHolland, the Neway manufacturer?

Thank you again for the pictures etc

Harry

 

 

 

Sorry about the late response.  

Don't worry about the steel bushings, the new ones are made of rubber coated steel.  I guess somebody figured out a better way.

To answer your next question I ordered from Custom Truck and Equipment before noon and had the next day buy 10, freight was $25 or $30.   I ordered the first go around via stengal bros, on a Tuesday and was told I would have on Friday, they were around $50 more with shipping.  After the second day and no shipping confirmation I called said it would be Monday or Tuesday the next week unless I wanted to pay $150 for overnight. I told them to cancel the order then called Custom Truck.  I went with Stengal Bros because of recommendations from FB but I guess if you cant walk into the store might as well get from local. 

On 5/5/2017 at 4:36 AM, Timmyb said:

Nice job on the thread, lots of pics... even a dummy like me could follow. 

That pin you had made looks a lot like a rocker box pin. Only with out the hex head on the end. 

Not sure I know what that is {rocker box pin}

I used the dimensions off the old one and what Dan said his were. 

I do the same but I didn't pull the hubs just the axles.  I made set of guide pins I would recommend anyone doing this job to have them.  The rear is sealed with silicone and must be applied to both half's and once you place it on you don't want to move it or you will have leaks.  I bought the rebuild manual so ask away.

Update

this morning I tackled the job of pulling the differential.  It was the rear one and tight as it is on a dump truck.  After getting it removed I found all of the bullgear bolts loose.  After checking it out and installing new bolts I managed to get it dropped back in.  

I made a set of guide pins which really helped with getting it dropped in.  One of the hardest parts was pumping the oil.  I ran the truck in gear on jack stands for over 20 minutes.  Since I pulled the axles all of the oil was drained  from the hubs running with no load will allow the oil to splash back up into the  hubs.  Better than pulling the wheel. 

I flushed the rears in June and replaced all the fluids.  I would like to have thought it would have not been left in there? I spoke with a guy who rebuilds them and said that I shouldn't worry about it coming apart because the way Mack made it has like a gear in a gear.  My concern is if one fell out are the others ready to also? 

Contact the Mack Museum.  They can get you a copy.

One is a Superliner 1 the 85 is a 2.  Some cab parts and interior are but tanks and things that were improved may not unless you change the whole assambly like fuel tanks are diffrent diameter  so you have to change the brackets, straps and tanks

I guess I will end up pulling it for inspection.  Just kinda tired of this can of worms.  I can see how the broken studs can be related to the swing arm but the bolt falling out of the bullgear not so much.

Was flushing out the housing and found a bolt not to terribly chewed up so hopefully nothing is damaged.  You can still see the treads and markings and nothing else is floating around in there so I stuck my inspection camera in and didn't see anything.

I was hoping to save some work by pulling the right side cover off and see if you could get access to the bull-gear bolts.

Anyone know???

Truck looks awesome.

Where did you find your bumper and the trim under your lights?

The only difference I found on the wiring between the 1 and the 2 is the head light/turn/marker wiring instead of coming off the junction block on the fire wall to the drivers side and across the front of the hood to a junction block on the 2 it comes off the firewall like the 1 on the drivers side but the passenger side comes out of the firewall by the heater box

Got to keep the dogs Rollin to pay for the kennel

I just had my truck painted and asked the shop to make sure everything on the roof was water tight.

Just spent the day loosing everything and adding silicone, have a fan in the truck aimed at the headliner, it leaked through a couple rivnuts and around the vent seal.  I took out the vent and silicone the gasket where it pushes in to the roof than did the same where the vent seals in the rubber and added a bead on the roof side took the visor loose and did that to.

Find you a wrecked or scrap truck with a good cab and back panel probably be cheaper

Well since nobody knew the answer to my question, I answered it myself.  

It has 3/4 course thread studs with 3/4 fine on the exposed side.

My repair consisted of drilling a pilot than attempting to extract with easy out.  On closer inspection there was actually 3 that were broken.  I ended up pulling the side cover off since one of the broken bolts caught on the drill and spun in.  

I replaced with 3/4 grade 8 bolts 2 1/2 long with harden washers and red locktite. 

Was just checking out my handy work and found the track bar mount loose on the axle that I just redid the swing arm pin.  I grabbed a wench and tightened up three of the four nuts as it appears one seems to be broken off.  Just went through my TS442 and couldn't find anything.  

What do I need to do to replace the bolt/stud?  

if it is a stud can I extract it and replace?  

or not worry about it and just make sure the bracket stays tight?