thomastractorsvc

14 hours ago, j hancock said:

Which 15 speed do you have and tire size?

RTX15715     11r 24.5

What would it be with 4.64? My 92 RW713 with that 15 speed is 60 against the 

On my old B61 the plate was tacked welded on I guess someone didn't want to take a chance 

I am guessing you are the guy that bought it, why was it such a big secret when it was an ATHS asset and members were left searching for clues?

I appreciate that it is staying where it is supposed to but I think ATHS should have kept it as it is the mission to preserve transportation history and loaned it to museums for all to enjoy.

Who bought it?

On my 92 it came with dual breathers the po changed them out with two nos r model ones the intake conectors have a indent for the cable.  Also if you check out one of my posts from earlierthis year I was tracking downn the missing roller guides which you will need to keep the hood aligned and not rubbing on the filler panels

I bet that's a shadow not really painted black. 

Either way still looks good.  I saw one that looked good with the trim painted to match and just the top portion polished. 

They are auto adjusters or should be.  Not sure of the style of your cam but should be a snap ring and couple of spacers.  Undo the clevis pin and should come off if it's been taken care of.   Might have to use a puller or a hammer to knock it off.

auto adjusters don't need the same maintenance adjustments manuals do usally adjust and keep greased  until it's time for brakes.  The more you mess with them the more issues you will have.

My guess is an issue with govonor or the way the lines are hooked up. The governor is what controls the air build up and release of the compressor 

How far you wanting to travel a buddy got a decent one he is going to sell.  Getting to small for his equipment so he is buying a tractor and lowboy

The puff limiter is a two part system the air valve on the intake and a piston on the end of the pump more than likely the piston on the pump is not working or shim properly.  

I hooked mine up with new valve and piston but the old piston had no shims.  When I replaced the air valve it would never Rev up, like it took half the power away.  So put the old valve back on and was going to order shims but never got around to it and put the new parts on

Over fuel.  

Does it roll black smoke when you get on it?

Well those heavy exhaust particle cling to the inside of the exhaust and then when you shut down the pipe condensates and causes the particle to stick more than they cool and dry out becoming lighter and then when you start up it forces all the dry flakes out the pipe and all over your truck.

could be pump is turned up, puff limiter not working properly or because it's 30 years old

Salvage yard take it with you or to your buddies to compare.  Probably won't find a casting number unless you sand blast it and then it way be worn off

If losing prime check the transfer pump

there is an inspection plate behind the pump check the tightness of the cover bolts you may not be able to get on them just have to see

oil in tanks is a worn air compressor as long as you build air like you are supposed to keep the tanks drained  and save up for the compressor

Probably a two valve the valve covers are rounded dome shape if they are flat then 4 valve

18 hours ago, ranchhopper said:

There is a guy in Missouri with four of them he wanted 50 each they were western model tanks no built in step was advertising in CL I bought the aluminum air tanks he had,

Where is he located?

Thanks just wanted to make sure I was "tracking"

Where I am from it was common to run a dump in the summer and remove it in the winter to "trailer truck"  

Where you located.  I have used pai and atro poly bushings get through inland truck or custom truck and equipment in the mid west and i have them pressed in there they have all the tools and tricks so usally if they have them about 1/2 hour or I drop off and pick up next day if they order them

Did you get torqued up right?  Supposed to be 200 to seat the seal and bearing then back off full turn torque to 50 ft lbs while turning the wheel then back off 1/4 turn and check slop. .001 to .005 then lock washer then outer nut to 300 to 400 ft pounds for dowel style or 200 to 275 for tang style 

Depends also on the frame length and axle placement and the type of dump bed and if it is sub framed or not.  Lots of combos.  I have seen more low boy frames cut than dumps both of my rwls have orginals length frames.  One has a dump bed was a road tractor with sleeper (1985) the other was ordered for dealer installed sleeper and deal fell apart and was sold to a concrete plant and a 16 ft aluminum bed was installed.  Was then sold years later and converted back to a tractor (1978)

Still looking for some?  I found some the guy wants $300 each no dents but need polished.   I was going to get them but decided not to.

Can you give some details and snap a couple pictures of the drill and reams set ups used for the frame and how you chuck them?  

I have a 78 RWL factory cummins  400 and 13 speed so a N14 will fit I would a cummins donor truck for the mounts as they are diffrent 

Don't forget pictures