chillywilly

I've been told the factory grey paint on rims is called "dove grey", does anyone know the paint number or info. I also need the number for the light green interior color of the early F and R models    Thanks

PS   I assume with the Hollywood sickos on strike, you must be outta work as a Paul Newman stand in.....can't you find work at the salad dressing plants for a while?

what do you have to give somebody who has one entirely intact, original yellow paint but  covered with moderate tree sap, 2 transmissions from the factory, frame with all original rivets (no bolts or alterations), original rears , and newer 220 Cummins that ran 10 yrs ago when the idiots....I mean kids.....burnt the clutch.......asking for a friend

Need decent B drive-side vent window 'assembly"  either chrome or paint-able. Body man at dead end, need to keep him moving. Willing to pay to rush  Thanks !    864 230 9843    David

I need advice on wiring harness purchase. I'm willing to buy Watts and wait 6 months, but wish to be assured of outcome. I am wary of 'one size fits all' and hope somebody knows somebody that bought one somewhere that was happy with experience.....anywhere. THANKS everybody.

I need some help.  I cannot figure out how to view my "DMs" either inbound or outbound,  what am I missing?

If a man was willing, could a H sleeper cab be cut down to a H-69?  Can anyone send or direct me to pictures of H-69? I found one photo, but not enough there to determine level of idiocy to proceed.

I have same issue, 1960 B-73, about ready to sandblast and paint. It appears the holes were unused due to longer hood , but the cab needed air.....i gave up trying to figure out the set -up. My B-61 uses both holes to accept air into the cab and pipe it on out to engine.

Somebody put coffee can lid type light metal. Kinda funny, reminded me of my patch work in the good old days.

I googled "4.5 inch freeze plug" and found many possibilities. No freeze plugs that large, but many other plugs for testing and plumbing. I ordered 2 pipe expansion plugs for $50 a piece and was very pleased....they will have a factory appearance as well as an unusual appearance after painting. They have a wingnut in the center, and will appear factory design.

BTW- my 2 holes are slightly different- one is 4.5in and the other is ~~4.4in   I can find the box if you want to consider them....I cannot find my order e-mails and receipt.......the place was in Florida

Ha  If I live long enough for a next time  I'm lucky enough to devote all my time and shop to this, but dealing with 'outside' help is brutal......we are at sandblast / painting stage and I'm not at all hopeful. Nobody has the time    Acquiring the parts is going well enough since it needs few.....$1000 floor mats ain't gonna happen, but I think I found some about $500      I think the hood dogs are incorrect new later style, but I have 2 on a H-model or firetruck. Gonna make my own  middle floor plate since it will covered.  I am more and more impressed every day with imagining all the people who did excellent restorations with 'wore out" rusty hulks.....I doubt I have the patience to stick with such a campaign. Thanks

Boy, is my face red....well, actually it is rust colored. I got a fatter screw driver and a rubber pad to protect the aluminum and --presto- it popped right out.  There are 3 small angle brackets that curve down ever so slightly and "pinch" the frame. One side is attached with 2 of the tank bolts (3 brackets), and the other side of the angle have the loosely attached 1/4 net and the other hole is un-used. The pinching parts were rusting against the rusting bracket.  You can barely see it in the 2 brackets D-Day posted..the top bracket shows the slight "J" shape ..not an expected "L".  I can sleep now  thankssss

Thanks everyone       I am in Franklin 1-2 month   can you can e-mail me >>greenville.sc.dave@gmail.com<<     it finally stopped raining and I intend to flashlight it in the dark tonight       I am loathe to force any damage since this thing is perfect condition, especially the shutters     your photo points toward something beside an unknown bolt   3 bolts only    the "lip" at bottom appears to be only about 1/8-1/4 inch  all the way across   that is what I thought, but it so firm stuck, I worried there was a longer lip in the center    I cannot remove slats because the cylinder arm prevents    I working alone.....it's hell growing old   retirement sucks    nobody to boss around

BTW- the shutters are long single one piece, there is no center divider making them 2 piece   A friend asked me, I vaguely remember seeing a 2 piece

If I understand you, that would be fortunate...........after removing the 10 or so small bolts (1/4,stainless,phillips), the aluminum shutter bars became free and able to move a bit, and will need to be 'guided' out because of the air cylinder arm (now disconnected). This is not part of my problem. The frame and bars seem to be unattached from each other.

The frame surrounding the shutter bars is very free on the left, right, and top, but is held firm by something at the bottom. It could have a "lip" holding it and maybe if I raise it somehow.  As free as the frame is, I doubt I will be that lucky, it is solid. I can use a screwdriver to raise each side about 3/8in....anymore would be risking damage.  Please continue    THanks   Maybe in the dark I can flashlight a better look

would the be among the 10 or so all single file that bolt the bottom tank?  They are all identical and aligned, but maybe the middle 1 or 2 secure the shutter frame..........Man, i hate to mess with them and cause a coolant leak that will never be discovered until reassembly. There are no safe service places down here, especially for that valuable and tender aluminum radiator.   I have a few months, if you can find somebody has solid info   THANKS     BTW- I'm a about to order "old gold" Cummins engine paint......I remember that "color" from 20yrs ago.   What paint number, and supplier would you suggest?   I am not e-savvy, but learning......the options are numerous, but some "Cummins" old gold appear to be more gold than yellow

I have removed the numerous 1/4 bolts holding the shutter frame to the aluminum radiator front. The frame and shutters are free to remove except at the bottom. I can gently pry each side at the extreme bottom out only about 3/8 inch, but the center is solid stuck and appears to held by a hidden bolt or clip. I cannot see any benefit in un-tightening the bottom tank bolts since the radiator needs no repair, only polish. Any suggestions?  Could it be steel/aluminum oxidation-rust build-up?  The top and sides are extremely clean and moving freely.  Thanks everyone.

thanks

I need the dog stand with left and right short bars that bolt under and between the windshields of an F-model (chrome / stainless) . I'll buy the dog also, but not required. Thanks

thank you all    more to come

I need paint codes: the good ole' Mack green of the 1950/60s ....also the common light metallic green interior for B-models...or tell me how to find them   thanks

thanks    

Attempting to restore many Macks    not good on computer and this site, but expect to learn more   need paint code for usual B-model interior (metallic light green)

lets see some pics of these. maybe a 75 brockway

Please conatct me.....I have no idea how to naviagte BMT, but trying to learn. I could not post a picture for a million bucks, but I can e-mail them (I hope) maybe in time, I'll figure things out >> greenville.sc.dave@gmail.com<<

Hey Jerry, this is the first time on thise message board....so don't be surprised if things are wacky. It took me 30 minutes to sign up.

The seller on here is my kinda guy, and I wanted to see pictures, but after yakking with him by phone, I guess I gotta find time to fly up there to see all his stuff. In Greensboro, I got very lucky.....I was after the red sleeper A-car. It was raining and most had left and the A-car went near last. My parents hauled tomatoes outta S Florida in one very similar, and I think I was conceived in it.....I got it. The snub nose A-car much like the one that sat out behind our house fro years i played on, but it was just too much to drag home and watch waste away, I hope somone restores it. I hope I can restore the one I got, it is a prime candidate.

serious buyer, also wish to learn more about you and BMT in future

my name is David Sutherland, Greenville SC, grew up with B model, drving NYC at 18yo in Cabover Brockways/F-model triplex

herd includes B-61 / B-61 sleeper / '65 F / "70 F / '74 Brockway coe / 2 Brockway conv / B-73 b-cab / B-73 L-cab / H-63 / H-67 / 51LJT / 3000 White / '64 Autocar - these are restored mint condition

65 Autocar sleeper / 2 H-67 / 55 LTL / 51 Highbinder / 3000 White / 75 Brockway / 66 Diamond T snubnose in decent condition barely driveable

coming to Iowa to bring home recently purchased B-71 sleeper

I am clumsey computer / barely literate pls contact .. greenville.sc.dave@gmail.com THANKS