M54A1

  Try Hillcrest Camshaft, on 65th st. in Little Rock. Carry your old ones up there and talk to Andy. He might be able to measure them and come up with something that will work.

I haven't looked at the cam. I have checked the valve lash several times and haven't had to tighten the adjustment. I figured a bad lobe or lifter would loosen the lash up and cause a ticking sound

I have a 97 CH with a mechanical 350hp E7.I bought the truck used, and it has always had a slight stutter or miss, especially at 1400-1700 rpm and it gets worse as engine temp increases. I had the injectors and pump rebuilt. I checked compression, and found #6 was consistently 50lbs lower than the other cylinders. Finally did an inframe overhaul, and had the heads rebuilt. I found a stuck ring on the #6 piston. I was sure this would fix my engine stutter, but it made no difference. The other day I tried cracking the injector lines while the engine was held at 1600 rpm, and when I loosened the #4 line, the motor smoothed out and ran like a sewing machine, until I tightened the line and the stutter came back. What is left to check and what would cause that?

Just wondering if the original poster got the miss fixed. My engine is acting the same way. I had the pump/injectors rebuilt and set the valves, and nothing changed. I did a compression test and #6 had around 20lbs less than the other cylinders. Just wondering if i'm looking at a burnt valve or broke rings.

Had a blow out today and it ripped the passenger side fender off my truck ( 96 Ch set forward axle). I have been looking at new hoods and the prices between the 2 manufacturers, Jones Performance and Bestfit, are around 25% different.  Who makes the better hood and is it worth the price difference?   

I'll give my update. I set the valves, had the injectors rebuilt, and had the pump rebuilt. At 1400-1600 rpm my truck still has a bad  flutter/miss and reminds me of a helicopter, but only in a light load situation. I don't know what else to check for or try. Anymore advice or updates?

I know this is an old thread, but my truck is doing the same thing. I have a 97 CH613 with a mech. E7 350hp. Only has a slight skip at light throttle and idle, and seems to get worse an engine temp increases. I have already set the valves and had the injectors rebuilt, and no change. I don't know whether to pull the pump and have it checked, or do a compression test, or check for cam lobe wear. Just looking for some advice and to see if the OP got his truck fixed. thanks

I found the axle # stamped on the axle itself, and Watts did say they were no longer available. If anyone knows of a set of kingpins sitting in the dark recesses of someones hoard , keep me in mind

Thanks for the help with the part numbers. I have waited to post a follow up until I have exhausted all options. There are no kingpin sets for this axle that can be found by anyone. The mack number crosses to several different manufactures of king pins, including Meritor, Dayton, Moog. and Kaiser, non of which are available. One thing that is weird is I have found dimensions of the pin by several manufacturers, and all list a pin that is 6.69'' long while my pin measures 7.375'' long. The shorter pin comes in the 301sq45a set, so in other words the 301sq32b set crosses with many manufactures to sets with the pin which is to short. If there are any other options please let me know. As of now it looks like I might have custom pins/bushings, courtesy of the local machine shop

I need kingpins/bushings for a 1961 B613T with a FA 505 axle. The local Weldons parts guys came up with Mack part #301SQ45A, how ever when I received the kit it is nothing like my original kingpins. The originals have no seals, and standard bronze bushings. The kit contains seals and needle bearing bushings, and the new pins are 1'' to short.  What part # is the kit I need?     Thanks Jase

I just had the heads rebuilt for my 285, and in the process of cleaning up the block deck, I noticed a couple of my liners appear to sit lower than the others. I haven't had leakage or headgasket issues before, so should I just put it back together, and just in case, what would be involved to fix this right.

I just received  the upper trunnions I ordered from them, for my inverted camelback suspension. Overall they looked good, except a couple of spots in the castings were very rough, but these are as cast pieces anyway, so they receive no machining. They aren't as smooth as the originals, but at $56 vs Mack's $915 I'm not complaining.

I am rebuilding my rear suspension, and can't find a parts break down for the inverted camelback set up. The rears walked all over the place but the trunion bushings don't look bad. Standard camelbacks have inner steel spacers that keep the spring mounts from walking to much, but my suspension has no spacers behind the mounts.  Am I missing something or does this suspension not have them. I don't want to do all this work and my tires still rub the ubolts in a tight turn. I also can't find part #s for the trunion bushings    Thanks

I agree with Glenn. You are getting fuel to the injector, but might not be getting enough pressure out of that particular plunger to lift the needle off  the seat in the injector, by the way where did you find head gaskets for the 673?

Correct me if I'm wrong but, I believe the 285 had main bearing girdles,  are their any other differences?

I've got a 1971 R685 which originally came with a 237, but the current motor has a tip turbine/ intercooler. The motor doesn't have a tag riveted to the block, and there is no stamping on the timing cover in front of the injector pump. The injector pump is also off of a 237 according to the part #. I have the heads off, getting rebuilt along with the injector pump. My question is, could this have been a Mack short block at one time, and is there any other way to tell what particular motor I have. While it is apart I'd like to have it built to a 285, if there are any differences between the 237 and 285 besides the tip turbine intercooler. What are yall's ideas?

I hate to keep asking about this, but do any of yall have a picture of how the junction block is mounted under the air valves. I am picky about things not being original to old trucks. Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the help, and I've got another question. What side of the cab was the rear wiring junction block originally located? I know B models were on the driver's side, but under my cab I found about 12 wires in a loom, cut in two, above the rear of the trans, about middle ways of the cab floor. I don't know which direction to proceed to take the cable, in order to continue new wiring.

Is this switch still available anywhere, and did any other trucks have this setup?

Thanks for the info.

 I'm cleaning up the previous owner's  wiring in my 71 R685.  There is a switch box on the left side of the dash between the steering wheel and vent window. the switch is broke, and there is a wad of disconnected wires under the dash that look like they went to the switch. What is this switch and what does it do?

 I'm cleaning up the previous owner's  wiring in my 71 R685.  There is a switch box on the left side of the dash between the steering wheel and vent window. the switch is broke, and there is a wad of disconnected wires under the dash that look like they went to the switch. What is this switch and what does it do?

I'm looking for the bolt in floor panel for a 1974 R685. Does any body still make this panel? Most Macks in salvage yards around here have floors rustier than mine.

Thanks for any leads. Jase

That was it, its starting good now. thanks guys!

Just drug in another b model. When I try to start it the parallel switch clicks rapidly like a starter would with low votage, but I took the cap off the back of the switch and manually shoved the solenoid plunger forward, and the truck fires right up, and the starter spins like its getting plenty of juice, whats the deal, Where do I go next?

Thanks Jase

Where can I find headgaskets for an ENDT 673, 18 stud motor. Watts doesn't have them and can't get them. I pulled the head off to fix an oil leak, and had no idea it would be this hard to find gaskets. Surely someone make a gasket for these motors still.

Thanks Jase