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Daguvanuh

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    Shelby NC

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    Fishing, Working, Sleeping

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  1. Been there done that.. Mine coded as turbo actuator failure... Mack (Charlotte) told me about $4K to $5K... Said they come as a pair.. I Took it off rebuilt turbo alone and put it back on to no change.... Bought actuator put it on had Mack sync them..... Ran great.... fix about $950 for actuator.... $1500 total fix.... That was April 2011................. Dec 28th 2011..... Blew turbo again.. Slopped up outercooler with filings and oil.. Towed to private shop and bought from Hickory NC MACK turbo/actuator kit today (Dec 30th).. (GREAT PEOPLE in TRANS-South MACK store. Helpful -honest- straight talking and as compassionate as can be to assist.... Wish I never darkened the door in CHARLOTTE... Had a bad experience every time I was there and perma-raped in the process.. Until meeting folks in Hickory was wishing i never had heard of a Mack.. Now see the "relationship" a dealer/service dept can be.....and for the first time have confidence in MACK people). Back to story.... Got cooler back from radiator shop this evening but the shop I took my truck to found a split exhaust pipe we had to order for Tues delivery, then they will finish putting together and change oil/air filter put her back to work. About $4.5K est at this point but I am accepting it as a "truck thing". Charlotte was trying to sell the turbo with the actuator the first time in April.... I still think that was wrong but it may not have been. After the turbo rebuild the actuator by itself fixed the problem. But the short life of April to Dec could have been net of mismatch, bad rebuild, improper reinstall or chyt happens..... I really do not know. Good luck on your fix and a great New year to you.
  2. Yes on pre-DPF and yes on updated harness, after the first one as it was under warranty. If these aggravating qwirks were tended to without frothing at that $104 per hr labor rate they might have something. Thank you for the reply and the "GO" for now vote. I watch the oil and water temp too much but with a haywire Pyro reading that is my release from worrying whats going on in there.
  3. Cam and Injector cups were under warranty but now turbo and SRA problems are killing me. Also I'm om the 5th $81 pyro temp stick sensor. Engine fault coded last week on my '07 Granite Quad Dump. Took it to local MACK dealer shop. They showed me the SRA fault and said replacement was necessary and extended warranty of 3000 hours was OUT. SRA around $800 cost and a few hundred labor but they recommended a $3300 turbo to FIX the deal and 7 hours labor. I got the turbo off and had it rebuilt ($400), balanced, bearings, and all and they found it had no problem in it...put it back on ($210 install kit) and went to MACK shop for new SRA and calibration. $1240.. around the block and back to shop.... same problem. Shut down codes and extreme Pyro temp, barking sputter though infrequent, and a screaming turbo. Tech spent 3 hours hunting the Pyro short to no avail, finally chained it down on the rollers and run her on the computer for a bit. They used the turbo actuator plastic guage (tool) and came back with the turbo lever was about 2 splines off full actuation or completed motion. I could see this with the gauge on the turbo with the actuator housing removed.. $297 more.. Now here is my question since the truck runs good with the Pyro sensor unplugged (and not running from 400 degrees to 1400 degrees in 5 seconds everytime you give it fuel or change gears).. Am I hurting the motor any if I do not fix this just right now.. The turbo shop said they will reposition the lever free when I can bring the turbo in but I need to work the truck till the next rainy spell if possible. The truck running right is a horse no doubt but I have no confidence in this motor for the whole 120K I've had it.. With the Pyro sensor unplugged the MalFuc'n light is on but it has been on 1/2 the time anyway.... still needing to run it right now but do not want to hurt anything... GO or NO GO??
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