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Posts posted by smorse54

  1. Hi,I understand why you're considering this. I've switched 2 valves for 4 valves and visa versa. The only thing that may be a slight problem is the front mount as you stated. Your RWS will have the circular trunnion mount with the 2 piece half moon rubber insulators. Depending on the year your 4 valve in the R model will have either a steel timing cover like your Superliner or a cast aluminun cover. If it is the steel cover the mount will bolt on your 2 valve engine. The mounting holes have to be drilled out and tapped to 7/16 from the 3/8 they now are to accept the bolts that are in the R model mount. If the R model 4 valve has a cast alum timing cover you will need to find another mount as they are slightly different. Should be no problem finding one. You can't swap timong covers cause the one with the alum. cover would have captive thrust washers on the camshaft ans accessory drive, while the 2 valve has thrust buttons with hex heads and lock nuts. Hope this helps and doesn't sound too confusing. Steve

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  2. A bar puller is all you need to get the hub off. When you put the hub back on heat it in a deep fryer to 400 degrees. Have welding gloves handy and slide hub on quickly and install bolt right away to seat hub. If you pound the hub on you will mess up the crankshaft thrust washers.. Steve

  3. You'll need 100 % argon. The aluminun has to be spotless clean on both sides, just like soldering. You use 5356 wire for strength, 4043 for a smoother look where strenght isn't as critical.You push the weld as apposed to pullin with steel. As stated,practice makes perfect. Steve

  4. I heard the 361 was going to be the new truck after the super liner

    Hi Don. That would be neat with an N-14 mechanical in it. Not sure what's in store for the Brock. Started it last week and let it run for awhile .The old 250 sounds good.Steve

  5. Beautiful truck,wish I had a use for it. One question,how do you keep your battery lids on? I don't see any latches.

    Thanks Mike. Every Superliner I've been around annoyed me with the rattling battert box lids.I have a 2 inch long piece of 2 by 2 alum. angle that is held on by the battery hold bolt. That is drilled and has a 3/8 u-nut in it. The lid is drilled and has a 3/8 by 1 stainless bolt holding it on. I'll get a pic tomorrow so it makes more sense. Steve

  6. I am now serious about selling my Superliner.Am planning on retiring from my job wrenching and would like somethiing more comfortable since I will be spending more time in it. This is a 1984 with a E-6 350 2 valve,Dynatard RTOO-14613 Fuller, Eaton DS/RS 404 3.70 ratio.The rear suspension is an AL-40 out of a 2003 CH.In last 50,000 miles has had; new front springs,king pins,wheel brngs,seals,tie rod and drag link ends,brakes(front and rear)new oil pan,vibration dampener,injectors,fan drive,radiator,Duralite intercooler,all new crossmembers,new Fontain fifth wheel,all new brake chambers front and rear. The list goes on.PM me if you are interpost-8009-0-46115200-1407067229_thumb.jppost-8009-0-20310500-1407067720_thumb.jppost-8009-0-45789600-1407067803_thumb.jppost-8009-0-80687100-1407067628_thumb.jppost-8009-0-69088800-1407068079_thumb.jpested. Steve

    • Like 1
  7. Have seen water enter from loose carrier to housing bolts. Another place to check is under axle seats.I've seen housings crack there and allow water to enter.This is usually from loose u-.Might want to check that , have seen this on AL 40 and Reyco suspensions. Steve

    • Like 1
  8. That is a superliner in the back. Wasting money on the pussypussy though.

    That is a superliner in the back. Wasting money on the pussypussy though.

    Sure looks like Ray's Superliner to me. Steve

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