Bmoto1

Got every thing taken care of with the headliner, talked to Tracy and talked to the manufacture. Got a replacement sent to us and was easy to install. Thanks to all who helped, this was the last thing we needed to get Dad's project finished. Check out my gallery to see all the updated pictures.

Brian

That headliner looks great. I have same looking one, how is it fastened in the center? Mine has begun to sag right in the middle, been reluctant to get into it

My B is in the shop and getting new valve cover gaskets. While the valve covers are off is there easy access to retorque the heads? They were retorqued about 12K ago- worth doing?

thank you for offers of help and moral support. After trying, and trying, walking away and trying again it all made perfect sense and went together. The ultimate problem came down to a short inside of the Bussman flasher- bulb burned out frequently because it never went off and in changing it things sprung out before I could not how the were assembled- three springs, three buttons, two mysterious pieces of bent sheet metal

be careful, all was swell until I took the top off and SPRONG. Kind and generous of you, if it comes to that

I opened the box to replace the bulb, everything sprung out. anybody know how it goes back together? There are the two push buttons for left and right, and the top button to turn off. There are springs on all three, and two sheet metal L s that the L/R shaft go through, seems simple enough but no combination of reassebly works. There is also a wire bale on the bottom of box that plays a mysterious role somehow

Ned

Thanks for the advice. Everything was tight, bearings good, seal dried out from too much sitting in the desert- all fixed now- ready for pikes peak

B61 with Duplex, in dealer for service, they report a leaking output shaft on trans and a leaking seal on the rear. No quote to fix yet. I think the output shaft has leaked for years, and last mechanic advised to ignore it, fix cost too much for a 5000 mile a year truck. that make sense? Going to drive it Tucson to Co springs and hopefully up Pikes Peak- hot weather- should I spring for it?

I bought a compete rear end from Dennis at www.oldmacks.com good luck

thanks for the tip. makes sense to lube it so it can move to engage the flywheel. I'll start there

Sometimes, usually when a no start would be a big event, nothing happens when I hit the dash button. It has always fired up second or third time I hit it. I carry a spare button, but is there something else, besides my B61's sense of humor, that might cause this? Grounds look clean and tight

Thank you very much for digging out that information. I hope Dennis can make Colorado Springs, but if not he'll make the ones out east. Resilient guy-, tough- like an old Mack

I hope we hear something soon, this is the first I even heard he was injured. I hesitate to call Kathleen until I know a bit more. Dennis is one of my all time favorite Mack guys.

If water in the oil pan is not common, I might have anotther problem somewhere that is allowing it to get in. One time a dealer serviced it and slatherd silicon under the circumfirential clamp, the next shop put a rubber rope gasket, and last shop put nothing. Water has gotten in before, when I lived in rainy Seattle, but i don't get much driving rain in AZ. think I'll dig out a manual and see what is recommended, should have started there. thanks for the opinions

thanks for the info. You never have water? hmmm. I will say that the shop did not put any gasket on it. When I replaced the oil I added a 1/4 inch rubber rope around the circumference of the junction, under the clamp. I'll be watching it more closely now. thanks again

Guess I got sloppy about maintainance. When I dropped the pan on my oil bath air cleaner the oil was carmel colored, and there was water under the oil. It was last serviced 6 months and 600 miles ago. how often should I check it. I wonder where the heck the water comes from- not much rain in AZ-

Saw a fine old '65 B61 sitting in a yard the other day. Because I have a B he asked me if the engine was original. He'd have been better off picking a random name from the phone book and asking him. I will say it only vaguely look liked a END 673. It had a turbo, but had a lot of plumbing on the drivers side of it too, looked like fuel rail, but that was on the other side, where I expected it. Certainly it could have been re-engined with anything, but what were the factory options for engines in the late B days. all in all a breathtaking fine, all orginal and complete- the old 'ran when parked' a few years ago.

Thanks. Maybe my wife will hang under it and listen for the whine- I can't hear a thing in the cab. Really, I appreciate the comments, the fact that the gear face was so big it could have a pit and still have all that metal around it was reassuring. Must be getting old, when I drove a B for a living i never thought about breaking down, and never did

What, me worry? a few years ago I had the rear in my B changed from a 5:62 to a 4:??, and picked up about 8 mph to 68. The dealer did not want to install the "new" rear saying the gears were pitted. they were, some holes the size of a pencil eraser. But, been fine since- 10,000 miles- even one 600 mile day. No weight on the truck, flat bed with total truck weight of 13,800. getting ready to drive it 800 miles to Colorado Springs in June. Any way, any thing to check? I've thought of putting a thermal couple on it to see if it gets hot, but I don't know what the failure mode is.

20 psi is where my non turbo 673 hot idles, goes up to 60 psi when pulling. don't know what is normal, but mine has been like this for years

"I could bleed out the air already in them." IS THIS ON A B OR R MODEL?

REMOVE THE HOSE FROM THE VALVE ON THE SEAT. IF AIR IS ESCAPING THE HOSE YOU HAVE AIR TO THE VALVE, THE VALVE MAY BE BAD. JUST FOLLOW THE LINE TO WHERE IT CONNECTS TO THE AIR SYSTEM. I HAVE NEVER HAD AN ISSUE SO CANT SAY WHERE THAT LINE GOES TO. SOME TRUCKS RUN THAT LINE BACK TO UNDER THE DASH WHERE THERE ARE AUX PORTS FOR ALL THE MISC AIR CONTROLS

Well, I feel like a fool, I fired it up drove it about 50 miles and whatever was blocking the airline came loose and all is well again. B model, by the way. Guess she was just mad because she hadn't been out for a run in a while

This will seem like a stupid question but...air seats have worked fine for 5 years, today they will not take in air, I could bleed out the air already in them. The hoses to the seats look fine back to the T under the cab- hard to track the leak without air in the system. Where/ how do those line attach to the compressor? Is the usually a manifold up by the air/oil resevoir? Shutter stats and brakes are all fine. Before I spend much more time crawling around in the AZ sun, any hints?

I had a customer call me and ask how to keep mice from getting into his B-Model whil in storage? I figured I would pose the question to you guys...

He said he tried moth balls but there is still evidence of mice...any other suggestions will be helpful!

In AZ we have a problem with pack rats. I use the 3" chlorine tablets for a pool, just scatter a few around under the truck. I also put 2 lights, one incandesent and floresent, which either keeps them away or makes it easier to see which wires they want to eat. I have not had a problem for 2 years using the two techniques above

http://bigmacktrucks.invisionzone.com/inde...findpost&p=4567

PPG # is 40496 Mack Truck Green.

Hope this helps.

Great, just what I needed, thanks

Anybody remember the paint code for the dark green B exterior color? Seems I had a PPG number once but can't find it now that I'm ready to paint the truck

Still struggling along with Armstrong steering so I can't help but just thought I'd say that's a bloody nice B you got there, mate!

Hope she's steering happily soon.

Cheers

Andy

Thanks, and thanks to Rob for the hint on the seals. I just added a chrome bumper, had the tanks powder coated gloss black with chrome straps. I'm sure the lower wind resistance of the chome will offset the costs in fuel savings in no time