szafram
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Everything posted by szafram
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I believe Mack switched from positive to negative ground in 1971 in fire trucks. (I had a 1970 CF that was delivered in December of 69 that was one of the last time come off the line as positive) I have also attached wiring diagrams from that truck from the original manual. Hopefully they help you out!
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01010805
szafram posted a gallery image in BMT Member's Gallery - Click here to view our member's albums!
From the album: Wiring Diagrams
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Wiring Diagrams
Images added to a gallery album owned by szafram in BMT Member's Gallery - Click here to view our member's albums!
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CCI03152010 00000
szafram posted a gallery image in BMT Member's Gallery - Click here to view our member's albums!
From the album: Wiring Diagrams
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01010804
szafram posted a gallery image in BMT Member's Gallery - Click here to view our member's albums!
From the album: Wiring Diagrams
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That's what I was afraid of. I can clean the line off, and make sure all surfaces are clean, but it is as tight as I can get it (it's in a very hard to reach spot). I'm hoping I don't need a new line, so I will clean that one off and see what I can do. Thanks!
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Does anyone happen to know what size o-ring goes on the end of the injectors, on the outlet side of the injector for and ENDT675 engine? I have a fairly substantial leak coming from my last injector (farthest from the cab), that only happened after I cracked the injector off to prime the engine. I'm thinking that the seal was damaged by my help that day...thanks for any insight!
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Cool, that helps a lot. Thanks!
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Thanks for the reply Paul! Sadly, my trucks are 76 and an 81. After looking through the book more, the paint numbers I am looking for are Med. Red # 3469 and #77928. Thanks again for what you had though!
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Does anyone have or know where to find a spec sheet with Mack colors on it? I've got the original color numbers from the factory for my trucks, but would like to see what those colors actually looked like (both trucks have been repainted), and possibly use them for restoration purposes. Both trucks were red coming from the factory. Thanks!
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The front bumper is chromed steel, but the sides are just plain steel. They're magnetic, so they're not aluminum. I've tried Shield Solutions acid, which I believe is the same thing. I bought some Rust-O-Leum over the weekend, so I'll try that when I get a chance. Thanks for all the advice!
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I'm trying to polish the side steps. The footwells have been replaced and are aluminum, the bumper is chrome plated, but the side running boards and the tail board are what I would like to polish.
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Here are a few more pics. The first two are from polishing again, and the third is from the truck working a fatal house fire in 1987:
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This is a pitcure of it a few weeks ago after I cleaned and polished the paint, as well as the delivery picture:
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I am basing my assumption of some delivery photos, as well as some of the polishing I have done on it. I have somevery small sections (about 3-4 little diamonds) polished up to a very shiny, reflective finish. I know it is steel because it is magnetic, and have checked multiple times. I'll post pictures of that section when I get a chance to snap some. But the aluminum paint may be what it was when it was new. I'll look into getting some of that as well and see where it goes. But I will post a few pics when I get a moment
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I've been able to get a nice shiny finish with WD-40 and a ton of elbow grease (It was originally a polished surface when the truck was new), but that is a very time consuming way to do it. It's mostly just the oxidation built up on the surface, and getting it off is the hard part. I'm just wondering if there is a specific cutting compound that people have had success with. I have two buffers (10" and 6"), so that part is covered. I guess "mirror finish" would be the wrong term. I'm just looking for shiny and not dull...
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I'm trying to polish up the diamond plate on my 81 CF, and am looking for any tips you guys may have. I've tried about everything I can find, and am having no luck. The diamond plate is steel, not aluminum, and not stainless steel. It's not in horrible shape, but I'm trying to polish it up to as close to a mirror finish as I can. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks! Here is a lits of the things I've tried so far: WD-40 3M Rubbing Compound Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish Flitz Metal Polish Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner NeverDull White vinegar Shield Solutions Aluminum and Metal Cleaner (Diluted Acid product) Zaino ZPC Paint Cleaner
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Ok, if the WD40 doesn't work, I'll try that. Thanks!
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Ok, I will try that. The filters are full, so hopefully it doesn't take long to fire up. Thanks for the help!
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Does anybody have any ideas on how to easily prime the fuel system on a 76 CF600? I've got fuel to the exit of the pump, but the injector lines are full of air. I also think my hand priming pump is frozen...I've tried cranking it over a bunch, but I still can't get all the air out and get it to fire. I can crack one of the injectors loose at the engine, but the other 5 are a pain to reach without taking tons of things off the engine...
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I bought my fuel filters at a local carquest for around $30 each, and just changed them myself. They are very simple and fairly easy to reach from under the truck. Just make sure you fill them before you put them back on. It's probably cheaper to do it yourself than have someone else do it. And you may want to check the air filter before you replace it. If I remember correctly, you may be able to clean it with soap and water, or blow it clean with air (directions would be on the filter itself). Nice looking truck though! I especially like how they enclosed the cab and kept the curve of the body, looks great!
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Yep, higher heat is what it needed. It's now cleaned and back in place. Thanks for the help!!
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I tried the heat method, but I didnt have any luck with it. Im not sure if it just wasnt hot enough, but it was weeping out moisture from the aluminum housing every time I tried. Do I just need a more pwerful torch then, or am I out of luck with that method?
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Rob, I dont have the regular radial seal shown in that drawing, mine is an o-ring. Will applying heat to the spot where the shaft enters the housing still work? Or is there something I can spray on that joint to free it up?
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Yea, I picked up the seal today, and Im hoping to change it tomorrow. And yes, I have the governor off already, but the pump is still on the truck. Thanks again for the help!
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