Dennis

It appears that I have a head gasket leaking antifreeze on my 1959 B753.  So far, just leaking outside on the block, nothing in the crankcase.  I am trying to figure out what head gasket I need as the literature I have shows a Type I (sandwich) and a Type II (folded steel) gasket for ENDT673 SERVICE ONLY (whatever that means).  Can someone give me a "heads up" on what gasket and maybe part number?  Thanks

I am looking for a turbo spacer which is used when adding a Jake Brake system in order for the turbo to clear the valve covers. Once the Jake brake set is added with the valve cover spacer the valve covers will hit the turbo unless a spacer is added. I have a Schweizer 550 turbo on my engine, which is an ENDT 673.

You could not restore or build a truck like that for less than $30k. And that is doing most of the labor yourself. The truck is worth at least that much. Yes, you will have to find that right person who wants it, but that is the same with any restored vehicle.

I used Hushmat in my B model inside the entire cab and inside of doors. I can't compare it with Dynamat as I have never used it. It was easy to apply. Just peel and stick.

You need to use straight 50 wt motor oil, but the aviation oil (like Aeroshell) is preferred. Most of the truck parts stores sell 50 wt synthetic transmission oil which I think would be as good, maybe better, since synthetics weren't around when the auxiliary trans' were invented.

My ENDT673 came with a factory oil cooler. It went bad on the way to the Yakima show this year. On the way met a guy from Iowa who had one brought out to Yakima for me. I got it changed out up there in WA. I would say your oil cooler went bad as I also got oil in radiator, but none in crankcase, You can probably get yours repaired, or hopefully find another one in good condition,

Does anyone know if the Jacob's (Jake) Brake kit designed for the E-6 2 valve head will work on a ENDT 673? I have located one and want to put it on my B model. Thanks.

Name: 1959 B753LT

Date Added:

Owner: Dennis M

Dennis M

I would change the rear end first. I put a 4.10 in my B which has a quadriplex trans. I can cruise at 55 mph in 4th over easily, and still have two gears left

Can you get a Non-Commercial Class A or Class B in PA? Maybe that is all you need if you are going to haul your own stuff or an RV trailer. If your truck is registered as Historical that should be sufficient. So, even if you weigh over 26,000 lbs the Class A covers it. I also think a 3 axle truck is going to attract more attention from the law than a 2 axle rig.

Looking for the inside driver's side sunvisor for B model cab. Dennis

Replacing those 5/8' bolts with 12 point heads is the way to go You don't have to go to Mack to buy them. Any well stocked bolt or fastener company should have them. Then you can use a 5/8" gearwrench to tighten them up. Makes life a lot easier.

I found mine on eBay. They were slight differences in the pumps. You need to compare it carefully with the old one.

I changed mine over to 12 volt. Like BMT said, you just need a 12 volt starter and good heavy cables, 2(0) or bigger. My truck already had big cables, but they were old and stiff, so I replaced with new. I also changed the the ignitiion switch to one with a start position on it and used a starter relay (ford type) on the firewall. But the old starter button will work okay.

I need the inside driver's door latch mechanism for a B model in good working condition .

Thanks, Dennis

It is really difficult to tell you what to look for, unless "you" know what you want to do with the truck once you own it. Be assured that restoring a B model Mack is NOT a cheap endeavor. Even if you don't have to do any engine work, figure on spending 20 to 30k to make it a nice truck. These trucks rust at the bottom of the back of the cab and the floor. Check these out carefully. I can go on and on about different things to look at. Brakes, brake drums, engine hoses, radiator core, air compressor, governor, air lines, tires, electrical wiring, etc. It goes on and on!

If you are looking to buy this truck at auction, then i wouldn't pay more than $2k for it. Hopefully, you are located on the east coast or close by, so you can find some good decent used parts. If you are on the west coast like me, then you better hold on the your ass, because there are very few parts trucks to rob parts off of. That means buying new, or having parts shipped. Check out the prices for parts at Watts B model store if you haven't already.

Good luck in whatever you decide. B model Macks are cool, but they are not for sissys. (No insult intended)

Thanks, Guys. I was trying to figure this out on my B753 also. I guess I have it plumbed wrong. I plugged the line at the treadle and hooked air from the air block to the slippery/wet lever. Then from there to the limiting valve under the cab. I didn't think it was working right.

You will be cruising for disaster with a 1500 truck. You need at least a 2500 with a 20,000 lb. gvw trailer with two axles and good brakes. You should also have a diesel truck or big block gas rig to pull that beast. I hauled my B753 home with my Duramax and 20k gooseneck trailer, and I really knew it was back there.

Okay, thanks again. I got it. "Engaged" was a wrong choice of words. I guess the only way to really test it out is when I get it back on the road. Air pressure to the front brakes will just be reduced with the two way dash valve flipped over to "slippery road" position.

Thanks for the info, guys. I thought maybe that was the reason the adjusters where still moving when I pressed on the pedal. I will make sure they are engaged unless it is raining.

Looking for throttle cable with knob for my B753. Also may need engine shut down cable, if I can't get mine repaired. Thanks, Dennis

I can't seem to get the front brake limiting valve to work properly. Maybe, I don't have it plumbed correctly. I put in a new TW-1 valve in the dash and a new LQ-2 release valve which is connected to the two front brakes, however, when I flip the dash valve lever it does not disengage the front brakes. I know the dash valve works as it is putting air to the LQ-2 valve. When I step on the pedal valve the front brake chambers still move. I am using air from the air manifold to the dash valve and it then feeds out the dash valve to the release valve.

Anybody know what I've done wrong?

Dennis

Thanks for the help and the diagram, guys. It's a start. I should have made out a sketch when I was taking it all apart, but I thought there would have been a schematic out there. Live and learn, I guess.

I am getting ready to run new air lines on my B753 which I ripped out to do a complete restoration. Now I need to figure out where to plumb all the air lines, including all the stuff under the dash, i.e. windshield wiper, front air brake, trailer brake, etc. Where can I find a good schematic diagram that will show me how to plumb these lines. I was really surprised that the windshield wiper motor had like 4 or 5 air lines going in and out of it.

Thanks, Dennis

I also have Gulfway and pay $250 a year. It depends on what you put for the value of the truck. If you just want liability, it will be cheaper. I think I have mine insured up to $10,000 for it's value in the event I total it out.