genoredstar

Seen a unused remack engine at auction, might be cheaper to do some swapping as opposed to going through my entire engine, such is the reason

Have an E7460 v mac 3 motor, If i change the cam out and exhaust manifold can this work? thinking I may need to change lifters  as well as push tubes. Use my eups, injectors and turbo?

Hmmmmm. that might be a problem

On 8/25/2023 at 7:59 AM, Brandt said:

I still have this and don't want to scrap it out just yet.  I get it that transportation is the issue. If interested, let me know, sometimes a transportation issue will present a solution.

Give me a call, I'm only in idaho, sure could use a spare

Gene 208-573-3989

When this truck is right boost runs up to 39 to 40 and holds till it starts dropping in the toque curve at 1650 or so . If its hot out , above 85 degrees i see a lil softening of the upper boost to about 38 but almost always above 35 psi.

I'm with you on the grey hair and bald spot. nuthin better than talking to experience!

If im correct losing 5 lbs of boost is about 15 percent of my power in the middle of the torque curve

at my place, they wont even give me a bill yet as i texted the service manager and told him it aint running right. I cant find any specs  on boost but I know they run around 40 psi at 13 to 15 hundred with foot firmly in it. He knows I know right from wrong,

I got introduced late in its tangled life. Thinking it got more brute strength than TLC, I'll make up for it. Now to think rationally or emotionally! 

only 750k miles I hope its not scarred emotionally from being molested

I really appreciate all the help, I'm older more of a mechanical motor guy , electronic stuff is a bit confusing

No, Im theorizing that as a possibility

cups were done about 6-8 months ago, Dont think they did the injectors

was experiencing loss from external leaks, then after all those were fixed i still had a leak, replaced radiator, needed to go back as the bleed line to the tank was leaking.

first cooler, was in for a service and that popped up , then the egr valve and manifold upon subsequent returns

This truck is on it's 4th motor. bought it at auction and it had warranty from a rebuild. the third motor new from mack blew up with 900 miles and out of original warranty, chronologically,  but how do you not warranty a 900 mile boo boo. Took a lil wrangling and threatened a trip to the warranty office at corporate personally before they relented and shipped #4. When I put the #3 in they noticed it was deleted, after of course, and I paid for everything after the turbo, ouch23K. Hurt Mack more than ME though! What corporate dont know wont hurt them.

Coolant loss, leaks kinda point to a pressurized cooling system to start, no? They claim the egr was leaking slightly, Turbo actuator had a lil play and turbo had a very minor bind or change in effort in  its operation but neither made a difference when replaced, as the egr didnt have a noticeable effect when it was replaced. How can we narrow or test for bad cups or injectors if no codes?

i'm thinking I need to stand over the techs as they are scratching their heads. The truck will be new if they keep relacing stuff. Not gonna pay for turbo or actuator or egr valve or manifold they broke the bolts in .I'm thinking could be an issue with cups or injectors. Maybe we start with leaks, ..... again and double check eveyrthing before moving to the next set of parts. Fuel pressure did cross my mind as well. no codes or cel debris or leaking fitting? sucking air or combustion gasses in fuel gallery?

Have a mp8 thats just not right. Had boost of 39 to 40 lbs now only 35 max. Injector cups done not long ago, 30 k miles. Was in for service and coolant leaks and needed a egr cooler replaced .Next was Radiator as it was deemed to be leaking as well.  Seemed to run ok but a lil sluggish. Dealer pressure tested and found a leaky boot. It improved the boost to about 35 lbs max but not the original 40 psi. Still noticing a loss of performance and boost. Ocasionally I'd get an eats screen if the truck was started cold and air built slow. If i bumped throttle a bit and built air faster on warmup no alert. Also no code. Dealer cant find issue. Turbo replaced ,controller replaced, Egr valve and exhaust manifold were next. Still only 35 lbs of boost when i used to get a solid 40 on a cool morning .Dealer tested for combustion gasses in coolant, starts and runs fine/smooth but I can tell its not right. Need to linger in gears longer loaded. Also had previous issues with egr temp sensor going bad often, would lose a lil power before showing a code,  then noticeable derate when code comes active. Dealer claims they tried new probe , but no change. Any thoughts??

Needing ac compressor and mounting hardware e9 for superliner

Gene 208-573-3989

I need a ac compressor and brackets, Gene 208-573-3989

Need ac compressor and brackets for an E9 Gene 208-573-3989

If i'm not mistaken I have an etec jake setup with an external line set up for just that reason. Jacobs updated the system to have external oil lines to provide more oil pressure thus making it more effective.I have a mechanical e7 this won't work on my motor BTW its for sale, Gene 208-573-3989

Nobody has mentioned operating temperature. I found that proper operating temperature helps maintain proper piston ring seating, reduces deposits around the rings and provides for proper combustion. I always check operatiog temp, whether its fully loaded or just idling. A truck that runs cold, especially in construction or vacational applications will surely benefit from some scrutiny as to why its running cold. You need a little heat to blow that carbon off the rings. Something as simple as a themostat could make a big difference. However it cant fix an engine that's been dusted

Pulled into lot, stopped, engine died like it ran out of fuel, checked and changed filters fuel looks good same fuel for 200 miles, will hit on starting fluid, fuel to injection pump took return off and cranked engine shooting fuel about 12 inches when cranked, no fuel at injection lines, manual kill unhooked and checked,

Check the injection pump drive coupler located between the gear drive and the pump itself.

Any body know if a 690 b jake will work on a mechanical e 7 motor?Anyone wanna swap a set of 680B for a set of 690B

A word to the wise, make sure the arm is replaced in the same position on the rear as they have a tendency to rake forward when you remove them and this changes the driveline angle. Also check the length as there are many variations. a\A porta power is handy to jack the rear into position making installation easier, Good luck, Geno

You need a pulse generator outputting about 5VPP signal varying in frequency to check the tachometer independent of the sensor.

If you want to box it up and send it to me I'll check it out for you. I have a test jig for doing what you need.

Rob

Rob,

Playing with a ground wire if i pulse one of the signal terminals i get movement on the needle . Am i correct in thinking its the pickup?