bigmack61

hi,

replace you 24 v starter with a 12 v starter. then all the wiring to the bateries is straight forward. The only real difference will be that you will need to take your starter button wire to the silinoid on the starter instead of the SP switch. I have used a small (ford automotive type) starter relay on the starter button wire so that the button has very light load put apon it. You should goto a negitive ground at this time but is not totally nessecery. Just makes installing radios and CB's easier later on, and alternators are a fine upgrade also.

Morgan

thanks for the info sounds easy enough

im asking around if any body has gotten rid of the 24 volt solenoid and made their truck a 12 volt start system and what you have to do to make it all work.this truck is a ground up resto in progress and a brand new harness is on its way so anything can be done to get rid of this switch. any help i s greatly appreciated.

Sorry about the stupid post that I did. I did not know your truck was a frame up project. Anyway, Paul is right on cue with his reply.

Best Regards with your project!

Sincerely!

mike

no problem ,i should have been clearer on my question. p.s. does anybody make a or sell a fan shroud for this truck mine is pretty bad?

The Bendix website can be a little confusing.

But it is still the best reference for a complete air system schematic.

There are printed versions of the schematic in the Bendix air valve catalog, which you can get from a vendor like NAPA or FleetPride.

The schematic will show a color coded plastic air line system for a modern truck in both single and dual air supply systems. The least expensive way to get the parts is to find color coded air lines and all the valves at your local truck junk yard. The valves rarely fail, and the plastic lines are all re-usable with new ferrules.

You will probably want to upgrade a few pieces for use on today's highways. The big items are maxi brakes for one of your rear axles and check valves to prevent accidental air loss in the event of a system failure.

My own experience is that genuine Bendix equipment is worth the little bit of extra money it commands. Imitators are usually highly suspect Chinese goods, and not something you want to be staking your life on! Be especially careful for counterfeit parts too!

Upgrading to a dual system is a lot of work, and I'm not certain it's worth the effort if a truck is being used as a toy only. We have installed a complete dual system in the B-67 restoration currently in our shop, and I have severely under-estimated the time and money involved. It looks cool - but it's probably not really necessary.

Anyway - good luck with your project, and see if you can find a copy of the Bendix air brake schematic for the particular type of truck you are doing (tractor, straight truck etc.). It's a wealth of information with the valve part numbers and names, air line color coding and routing, and air line sizes all spelled out for you.

Paul Van Scott

thanks for all the info.it will be a huge help.i guess the best attack is to jump in head first and just do it.the truck is only gonna be a toy and not actually be in service so the retrofit isnt nessecary.it was an original single axle truck that was sent to "modification pool" and changed to a tandem axle.and spent its life as a lowboy truck.i will post pics as soon as i can.thanks for your help.

Not trying to be a smarty pants but, a tape measure is the ideal tool for this project. Just measure where the lines came out of their original air valves and you will want to follow the frame rails, one side or both depending on your likings. Its not rocket science but if you are like me I love to ask questions just to see if I can get a straight answer or not. Thats why i'm a smarta#^ most of the time.

Keep Us posted and watchout for the Pelosi guy!!!

mike

im sorry but im confused on your post i guess my ques is mainly where does everything go as in to which valves and such, this truck is a frame off and i didnt mark or map it out like i should have done.the problem is im not farmiliar with the older systems of braking. but thanks for your help

anybody have any good suggestions for a air brake schematic. im restoring a 61 mack b753t that was originally a single screw but transformed from the factory to a twin screw. it sat in a field since 1995 in harsh illinois winters and alot of the lines disinegrated.i want to put it back to factory specs and this is my first undertaking of an antique mack.the bendix site doesnt really guide me all to well. any help is greatly appreciated.im going to use all plastic lines also.