raydurr

Ill bet anything she sucking air.

First I would try McNeilus who is the largest manufacturer of mixers. I can give you a vin off my DMs .They are however all E-7s. My oldest ( a 92) DM 690s 009862 my newest ( 2003) DM 690s 029417. They all use an adapter ring which attaches to the damper with 6 bolts. The driveshaft attaches with a flanged yoke to the adapter ring using 4 7/16 sae bolts. the yokes are spicer made parts.McNeilus has these parts also.

very interesting.So has anyone successfully start to finish eliminated the egr valve or cooler?My 2 CHNs need it done now but dont have the resources to do it without guesswork.anybody can do it on a diesel PU so this should be doable too. thanks

Hello my name is Frank Ralston, and I am new here on bmt.com but I believe I have very valuable information to share. At my shop here in Northwest Indiana, I own 9 trucks, 2 CX, 5 CH, and 2 RD. As everyone knows, only the CX's have problems and it is all due to the EGR. For me at my shop, the cooler break in 5 years I have replaced 10 EGR coolers, and it is getting to be expensive and not worth it at all. OKAY, now for what you guys want to know.

I have an engineering student working for me at my shop and he built the circuit to plug into the little computer behind the EECU, (the EGR Computer)for the EGR mass flow and temperature. The truck succesfully drove for a week without any problems and the EGR codes 5-8 and 5-9 never showed up. For those of you that are trying this method, plugging in the resistors into the back of the EECU, and are having problems I know what your problem is.

The EGR mass flow is what is called a hot wire mass flow sensor, it measure flow by heating up an element like a toaster and as air passes through it it cools down and that is how the computer reads the changes in ohms readings. The EGRMFS runs on AC CURRENT! NOT DC! This sounds bizzare but it is true! The problem you are having with the resistors is probably they are blowing up. We had to use ceramic composite resistors thermally glued down onto a computer heatsink to dissipate the heat properly. The circuit passes so much power to these sensors that the computer side was rated at 250 degrees, taken from an infrared thermometer, and the ground side was reading 550 degrees.

The EGR temperature sensor is very easy, a simple 270 ohm resistor, 1/2 watt resistor worked perfectly.

We are now tapping into the electronic component side of the EGR valve itself, we recently had a cooler fail and it hydrolocked the motor, We are DONE replacing them. Everything will be removed so if anyone has any information on how to trick the computer to think the egr valve is still working operationally please contact me, frankthemackguy@hotmail.com

P.S. I am willing to share any and all information with anyone interested in my circuit designs.

Thanks for reading,

Frank Ralston