raydurr

Hello

Does anyone remember the part number for E7  ETech 100 psi fuel return valve?Goes on side of block near 4-5 injector. 
I am in need of a new higher pressure valve. 

Hello. Will a third member from a 2003 50k tandem setup work with 44000 axle housing and axle shafts?

I have two mid 80s R model cabs and frames. 
Red one appears to be 1985 

very clean rust free cab and double frame. Cab appears to be the galvanized base metal. Good doors. Has E6 300 4V short block , 6 sod, radiator and charge cooler. Decent rebuildable hood. Has steer axle in place. No rear hubs of third members. 
White truck is late 80s . No drivetrain . Front springs only. Rear hubs and third members have been removed. No drivers door. This cab is very clean and rust free. Double frame with no rust. 
Asking $2500 obo for the red one. 
$1500 obo for the white one. 
located in Crockett Texas. 
For more photos message me with your email address. 

Yes , removal of Inconel exhaust studs are fun. Forget drilling them. I have done several using new, fresh extractor rods. Set your amperage on an old Inconel stud in a vise. Preheat and quench the broken stud a couple times. Finally weld all the way out and attach a new grade 8, 1/2" nut to the buildup. While doing the buildup plunge the rod deep into the broken stud. I have had 100% success rate . Good luck. 

 Hello. I recently purchased a 2003 RD 350AI . Compared to my E7 Maxidyne and AMI trucks , this thing is a turd in soft ground. Absolutely no low end torque. It loves to rev and make horsepower so no complaints there. A friend has concrete pumps with the same 8LL , 11R-22.5s and 4.42 gears just like mine except they perform ok in soft ground so I am assuming the AI id the problem. What do I do to change this?

Hello . I have a  2003 Mack RD . I am in need of the fuse panel lid. This fuse panel is in the engine compartment , just ahead of the firewall.

I have a DM690 1990s vintage that I would like to install larger brakes on . Currently steer axle has 16.5 x 5 Q and drives have 16.5 x 7 Q shoes. I do not want to change out brake spiders/ backers. I do not mind new drums though. I would like to go to 6 inch on the steer and 8 5/8 on drives . What pn drums should used. My trucks are unimount with 20000 steer axles and 44000 rears

I have performed disabling the EGR system on two of my CHNs.I first removed the EGR valve.I used the mounting gasket to make a block off plate from 1/8 steel plate. If you use thicker than 1/8 ,the studs wont be long enough.replace the valve with plate and gasket.I then removed the EGR cooler.I welded plugs inside each hose nipple w a mig.I did nothing to the coolant nipples,only the air passages.I then took to MACK dealer.They were able to program around the codes .Sorry I dont know how.Engine lamp rarely comes on.No noticable change in perfromance. These mods were done over 2 years ago.

WOW,I want to know how long this housing got ran AFTER oil started showing on the front of the differential.

When I stopped running retreads I stopped having tire failures. Another view point. What if you do "sling a cap" on the steer axle and no one gets hurt.How much will it cost to fix the damage to you fender,hood,bumper,wiring harness,airlines and floor pan.Ive seen ALL of these damaged on a steer tire failure.OH and the roadside service call. New or good used tires are way cheaper.

The cast ones look like a battleship and the fabricated ones have multiple weld seams

Being close to an export point like Houston,the spear chunkers have bought up almost everything that says Mack on it.Ive considered using the cast housing but havent been able to get my hands on any yet.I was hoping I wasnt the only one having this experience.

I have an aging fleet of DM690s that are used in ready mixed concrete. They all have the 44,000LB fabricated steel rear axle housings.I have started to replace rear axle housing due to corrosion from acid cleaners and cracks near the differential housing gasket flange.I have notice the cracks always appear on the drivers side,under the bevel gear compartment and near the the gasket surface and/or mounting bolt holes.I have also had difficulty in finding good usable replacement housings.They are cracked in the same location.It seems that its always the rear,rear housing AND it used a horizontal anti-sway torque rod.I havent seen any cracked housings used in the front,rear location.I have welded the cracks on one housing,(50,000) because I couldnt locate a replacement.Its been 2 years ago and it seems good.Has anyone else performed repairs on this type housings ,where they were able to monitor their repairs for the years following.

I never saw this water manifold used with spin on filters.This water manifold was usually used with the large lubefiner remote filter,full-flow of course.This water manifold uses the old brass thermostat.I believe its aluminum. Bolts love to break off in them . Probably started life as a 237 and someone along the way wanted spin on oil filters,I know i would

I would start by replacing the nylon vent tubing. They get brittle and seep air at the connections.This is by far the least expensive thing to do. I like to do the cheapest things first.

It looks like a 237hp .If i recall the highest horsepower of a non-cooled engine was 250hp.This was later in the seventies ,though.Its an old though late 60s-mid 70s with the steel intake,dual oil filters,head studs(not capscrews) and the what I call a 6BB pump. Heck it might even have a push type clutch.

You why Mack is the favorite export truck,theyre ...... proof!

A reamer thru HD trunnion AND a double or triple frame is lots of fun.Its the only way though.

id try to find good used frame rails.Used rails are usually cheap and almost a throwaway item at truck salvage yards. If im not mistaken ,the new frame rails from PG Adams arent going to be drilled unless there is a detailed shop drawing provided for each rail.Obtaining the shop drawings from mack would be impossible.Trusting myself to provide drawing accurate to their requirements would be difficult. You could order rails and use you old ones to "template" drill the new ones. Not fun but do-oable.You could go back w hucks or body bolts.

Earlier this year I reframed a DM. took weeks but I found totally rust free double frame chassis with trunnion and 4 crossmembers.Paid $1500 at the scrap yard. We took mixer off back. Removed front bumper ,fuel tank and battery box.Supported engine at front engine crossmember.Transmission w tranny jack.Cab back w scissor jack on top of tranny.Removed hood.We slid frame rail out from back on one side at a time.This allowed us to keep radiator on,A/C chrged and disconnected very few wires.Replaced crossmembers as we went.Took two days to do both rails with no fancy equipment.After everything from back of cab to front bumper back bolted tight , we rolled tandems where they belonged. Marked holes ,drilled and went back with body bound shoulder bolts.Replaced crossmembers in correct location. Quite a bit of drilling,but not impossible.Mack dealer had quoted $8000 for frame rail each side and $650 for each crossmember.Without finding a solid donor frame rails and crossmembers I would have been forced to "scrap" my DM. While tandems were out, we replaced springs,pads,wheel seals,brakes.Very Very easy to do this heavy suspension work w tandems out. After two weeks in the shop ,we had a very solid truck for little $$$ good luck!

I bet your bounce is from worn out dayton hubs OR tire that is out of round,sometime only at speed. Tires seem to expand about 40MPH and above. Id try changing a PAIR out a time. Doing only one pair at a time. FIRST LF,then RF,thenLR and last RR. This is slow but Ive done it with great results .Good luck.

that would be a DMM

The first post reminds me of fal 2005 when Katrina and Rita came thru east texas. No groceries for DAYS.No GAS for days.No electricity for days.LOTS of dangerous losers from out state hanging around.A dang mess. Strange walking into a supermarket and everything edible is sold, nothing but empty shelves. Thankfully I filled two 55 gal drums w gas before the storm. Ran on generator for 10 days.Dont look forward to dealing with that again.

look at www.cepimixers.com look at their online catalog for rear discharge mixer parts. In their driveline section is p/n 20009. I would consult with these guys AND mcneilus to make sure they know what they are talking about fitting you older application. Good Luck!

lufkin