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About FFEMT3326

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  1. Hey everybody, I am working on replacing the transfer case for my pump on my 1968 CF-611F(7)-1064. The transfer case cracked when a u-joint failed going down the road at 55MPH!!!! The yolk slipped off the drive shaft and hit the brake drum causing excess force on the mount/transfer casing. I have found a new/used case and gears. I need new lining on my shoes for the parking brake but I think I have that covered as well as relining the brake drum. What I am needing is a parts kit or parts for the parking brake (hand brake) that is mounted on the rear of the pump transfer case. Specifically: New return springs (2), adjusting screw spring (1), anchors and maybe the adjustor and cam as well as the cam spring washer. I do not have any parts numbers for any of the springs or smaller items. Any help would be appreciated. The brake is a typical internal expanding bendix type shoe, 12" hand brake.
  2. Name: Mack CF611F(7)/1064 (1968) Date Added: 17 April 2010 - 08:12 PM Owner: FFEMT3326 Short Description: Served the Paris Fire Department, Paris, TX, as Engine 3 (F3). Went from Paris FD to A&M-Commerce Fire Academy where it served as Engine 61. Went from A&M to Brinker VFD, where it served a short time and finally ended frontline service with the Saltillo VFD as Engine 9. I purchased it from Saltillo VFD and brought it back to Paris where I am currently a Firefighter. View Vehicle
  3. Does anyone know a place where you can buy a headliner kit for a CF600 cab, or does anyone recommend a shop or company that could build a custom replacement. I am missing one of the two outer wings and the main piece in the middle has seen better days. What is the material called? It has like a hard vinyl skin and on the backside it looks like pressed waferboard/cardboard.
  4. Kentonius, I have a '68 CF600 pumper that I just serviced while I was on vacation, it has the ENDTF-673C motor with a spicer transmission, there shouldn't be that much difference except maybe in the quantities. What you put in it will depend on where and how it is operated, (cold vs. warmer climates, used every day vs. once a month, etc.). Do you have any of the operating manuals for the truck? They will list recommended fluids, quantities, grades of fluids, oils and greases for your application as well as recommended service intervals. If you do not have them, or any of the service maintenance records I would suggest that you call the Mack Museum. I called and they sent me everything they had on my truck for FREE, about 2.5" worth of documents on all aspects of the truck, a little on the pump, even some sales literature along with purchase records from 1968,wiring diagram, the list goes on. You will need the trucks model and serial numbers which should be stamped on an ID plate on the pump panel as well as the cab door. The Mack Trucks Historical Museum Don Schumaker, Curator 997 Postal Road Allentown, PA 18103 Telephone: 610-266-6767 Fax: 610-266-6823 For the oil filter you should be able to take it to your local truck parts store or NAPA and they should be able to get you a filter. You need to know what type of filtration system you have, the operating manual should say, to determine the procedure for draining the egnine oil. In mine I am using Rotella T SAE 15W/40 in the motor and Castrol HD SAE 40 in the trans. Rear differential: Castrol Hypoy C SAE 85W/140. These grades are sufficient for my vehicle in Texas, I usaully drive it a few times a month and pump it on occasion. If you go to your local truck service center and tell them what you have they should be able to tell you what you will need to run in your truck. Or you could ask the fire department you got the truck from. However, I strongly reommend you call the Mack Museum and request the literature on you truck. If I am ever in doubt I always go back to: "Follow the manufacturer's recomendations." I also use an additive to my oil and fuel: Marvel Mystery Oil. Good Stuff. As far as tips and tricks on changing the fluids: The manuals will describe these procedures in better detail. It might get a little messy if you are doing it yourself for the first time. Coverall's, Shop Towels and safety glasses are good investments, as well as a creeper if you don't have a lift. A good cleaning of the engine compartment and undercarriage at the carwash is a good idea. Before you drain anything make sure the drain and fill plugs and the area around them in general is CLEAN and free of grime and dirt. You don't want any dirt or grit getting mixed in with your new clean oil. You should also clean and inspect any breather ports/caps that may be on the transmission and rear differential. Take them off and clean them out, if they are damaged just get some new ones. They may look like little mushrooms with a bottlecap like top that is crimped onto a short tube. Once you've cleaned, run your truck up to operating temp. to warm up the fluids so they drain better and so some of the sludge and deposits that settle while the truck is sitting cold will get dislodged and come out with the oil when you drain it. If any of the fluids are really sludgy, discollored or stinky then you might look at getting the motor flushed, trans and or differential before you add the new fluids. Once you've changed the fluids you should let the truck run for a while and inspect for any leaks. Remember you'll have to have some type of container to recieve the old oil. I have used 5 gallon foam buckets that the fire dept. got rid of for all my oil. Wal-Mart service centers will take used oil, only 5 gallons per day though are permitted. Hope this helps you out. Can you post some picture of your truck, engine compartment for us to see? They might help with further advice. Matt B. 1968 Mack CF611F(7)/1064
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