bowtiebulldog

I have a LHS Door off of an R. It is all there. Just your standard door with glass. 100 bucks and it's yours. Located in Central Indiana.

Call me at 765-661-2909 and please leave a message if interested.

Thanks

Thanks for the info Rob. I do have several other parts that I would probably sell. All Maxidyne or R Model and a few Cruiseliner. Pumps, Dayton hubs, Pair of front Budd hubbs for Mack, LHS R door, Tip turbine setups, etc.

Rob,

Yes it is on Budd Hubs. Studs. All studs were actually replaced about a year before I took it off. It does have inboard drums though.

I have a Radiator that was purchased BRAND NEW from Mack in 2004. This was a brand new core at the price of $1400.00. I built the radiator using my existing tanks which were thoroughly cleaned before installation. I parked the truck about 8 months after doing this.

This is the offset forward core to accomadate a viscous fan hub, so you can change your belts without tilting the radiator forward or smashing the fins.

I dont want to scrap it, but I'm tired of it sitting around. I am probably not going to build anymore Macks, so that is the reason for selling. It was in a 1977 R685ST, but I dont see any reason why it wouldn't fit any R 600 series, unsure if it would drop right in a 700.

Located in Central Indiana. Please call my cell and leave a message....765-661-2909

I have a Factory Neway Air ride suspension clip from a 1982 Cruiseliner. Mack rears with 3.86 gears. Complete from forward crossmember back. Frame isn't in that good of shape, but suspension is in good shape.

I had this clip on my International 4070B when I had it stretched out. I removed it and put it back to factory wheelbase to run Canada.

I will sell this for scrap price, which is about $500.00. I don't want to scrap it because I don't believe in scrapping something that someone could use, but I'm not going to give it away.

Located in Central Indiana, and I can push it up onto either a car trailer or a regular flatbed.

If interested call my cell at..........765-661-2909 and please leave a message.

Yes,

I am interested.

Please send me a personal message so we may discuss further.

Thanks, Mike

Well, I guess I stand corrected.

I guess that is the difference between somebody that does it only on paper and somebody that actually does the real thing. I have stretched enough trucks in the last 20 years so I guess I will continue to do it the WRONG way.

Every truck I have stretched out I always measure front hub to rear hub. I stretched my first truck when I was 15 years old(a 1971 White Freightliner cabover) and I have always done that.

I have never met anyone who stretches frames and uses that formula. In that case, 2 identical trucks with tandems, one a normal tandem and one a Canadian spread would be the same wheelbase.

I just received some flexible window seal for my doors on my Transtar. Great seals and worked perfect. The only thing I don't like about J.C. Whitney is there shipping times, they aren't the quickest shippers! But it is worth the wait for the price and the hard to find little things.

The proper, universal way to measure wheelbase is, The center of the steer axle hub to the center of the furthestmost rear axle hub center. Period.

You might want to try this simple check.

Are your tank vents clean? It sounds like it could be a simple vent cleaning to fix your problem.

If your tank vents are clogged, you will NOT draw fuel from the suck tank( right side ). You will draw just enough to run for a few minutes because everytime you open the system you give it air.

I use J C Whitney for all my window weatherstripping for the doors. They have a big selection of types and sizes. If you are not making a 100% resto truck, these are your best bet for the money

They came out of my 1982 Cruiseliner. 1800 Series driveline with a 1700 driveline in between the drives.

I have a set of 3:65's. I rebuilt the power divider and the thru-shaft last fall. They are even still in the truck so you could see them work. How much will you give me for them?

My sales book shows the R607T through to the R611LST with these emblems. Also the R640 and 640ST. I also have sales sheets for R615T, LT, ST, and LST Models with 864 c.i. N.A. V8 Engines! And yes they have short hoods with V8's.

I know I have never seen the great big Thermodyne emblems on anything but the sides of the hoods of R Models. These are much bigger than the ones that were on B's. Now, I have never seen in person, an R Model with these big emblems, BUT I know Mack made them because I have Mack dealer sales books from the mid to late 60's with actual pictures of these R Models, with these big Thermodyne emblems.

That is true on the Cruiseliner, BUT they only used it(the round,red emblem in the grill) for a few years. They quit using it when,or just before, they changed the cab.

I have got to ask this,

How positive are you that the Cruiseliner came out on the market in 1974? I don't believe I have ever seen a 1974 Cruiseliner. As far as my memory serves me, the Cruiseliner came out in 1976.

If you have 2 spin on oil filters and the small fitting on your coolant filter, you need a 294C Mack filter kit. It is cheaper than buying them individually. They also have a kit for the large coolant filter fitting. I always used 8 gallons of oil in my 237's....they all had the small oil pans. If you have 2 oil filters with the original pan, you will have the small oil pan. The large pans were used for the extended service interval set-ups which had 3 oil filters.

If this is a work truck, I would put in either a 9513 or a 12513 Fuller. A 9513 will hold up to a 300 2 valve and can be bought for about $500.00 and a 12513 for $900.00. A lot easier and quicker job than fabricating a bunch of pieces. Also if you break down on the road you would be able to buy parts.

motortrans,

I would swear that you copied my attitude when I bought my 1997 Wild Breed CH613 E7 454. That truck was JINXED! I could tell you about an 2 hours worth of horror stories that my wife and I had with that truck!! To put in a short text, engine blew up twice under warranty,2 weeks down every time, MAJOR overheating problems, bad engine vibrations that would mack the belts hit the fan and throw them off. NASTY fights with Mack district service managers,dealers and salesman. That truck almost put me out of business. The best thing that happened was when it went out of warranty and I fixed it myself. Mack warranty is a JOKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I sold the truck after I fixed it, lost big money on it, and REFUSED to ever buy another Mack with wet liners. I went back to 300's and 237's. I also finally went back to my old favorite...NTC Big Cam 3 Cummins.

I really understand your frustration and aggravation. I definitely feel sorry for you.

I wish you the best of luck!

motortrans,

If you are interested in the details... e-mail me and I will tell you in detail what all happened.

I have been a Seattle Seahawks fan for 30 years, ever since they became a team!!!!!!!!!!!!

So as you can figure, I am betting on the Seahawks. They say that good things come to those who wait, and I have been waiting a long time for this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the GREAT reply. I apologize for it taking so long. I usually don't stretch out sales of parts that long.

It was a pleasure doing business with you. Take care.

Hey everyone, thanks for all the interest and nice comments.....I will get more pictures on when I can, I have a few in my gallery of the truck when I got it and when I sand blasted the frame. The engine went in pretty smooth, I had to remove the oil pan to get the clearance over the front cross member. There are alot of things I am learning as I go, I used the original quad box tranny and push type double disc clutch (series 50). There was an interference problem with the newer engine flywheel housing and the old dish type flywheel that I used. I had to grind some off the lower portion of the housing to let the flywheel turn, it hit at first and kept the motor from turning....that was no good, but I am past that now... I had to build my front motor mount, I used part of the old mount and part of the newer style and welded the two of them together.....if any of you have questions or if anyone else has done this very same install, let me know I have some questions and I am more than willing to help if anyone needs something answered...I will try to help...

I assume that you are not going to work the truck? I am in no way trying to burst anyones bubble, but a Duplex,Triplex or Quadraplex will not hold up to a Maxidyne's torque under heavy loads. By the look of the truck I don't think you are going to work it. Just don't want to see happen to you, what I have seen before.

Would you be interested in a polished stainless steel sunvisor? Brand new.