Orange cv713

Okay that is awesome thank you and I chased the wires out of the computer for the ambient air temp sensor and it was the ones I suspected that are dead head with a empty plug in the end

So hear is some more ignorance on my part I haven't found a port to check pressure so do I take the return check valve out and tap in there

No man but that is definitely next

Okay man thank you I will look and make sure but I am pretty sure I found it with a dead head zip tied up in the frame rail, but it had other new eups in it and I am not sure they had cal codes either. I think I am gonna try and check fuel pressure also

So I have learn some read off the intake sensor and mine has no wiring or bracket for it just a pig tail zip tied and I get no blink code and my lightning bolt definitely works, but what would it do if the eup codes where not entered in the computer

when I get home I will look and see what they say I did some looking on the internet, and found what the factory sensor looks like and I definitely don't have that the only harness to the front of the truck is the headlight and the abs I have a suspicion that the motor has been out of the truck before the pedal valve on the fire wall when I changed it was mangled all to pieces towards the engine most of the wiring is kinda just thrown wherever it will go it had a front end collision at some point according to car fax the bumper is definitely new and the radiator is new, but when I got it it seemed to me they where also chasing this issue it had new eups that where aftermarket of some sort but I figured that maybe since they wasn't mack that may have been the issue so I changed them to mack ones

So I have a buddy that I haul with that has a 05 cv with a 370 in it I am gonna go and try to look at his this evening and one maybe figure out where it goes and 2 figure out where it goes in the wiring harness I have found 2 wadded up harness on top of my motor that are zip tied one is pretty long both with 2 prong plugs, but I'm not getting a lightning bolt so the circuit must be closed somehow

So I found a little bracket behind the radiator on the passenger side but nothing is on it beside the abs wires are zip tied to it but its has had alot of other things I have resolved along the way none real major I work it every day and it does well other than this fuel issue and it has done it since I have got it the ambient air temp sensor makes since to me because it don't do it until you drive it and it gets heat, on start up and cold its clean and certain times during the day it acts fine but that would make sense if it was wadded up in the engine bay somewhere or the wires where cut completely

Okay yeah man I know this is crazy but its definitely not there so I bought this thing from a auction and it has been well melested in it life so I guess my next thing is trying to figure out where it comes out of the harness at

Man I have looked all over the front of this thing and followed every wire to the front with no luck I am starting to believe its been cut off or something I have search the internet for pics of the location and came up with nothing but I am starting to lean towards that's the issue if its been cut off or someone has taped it up in the engine bay somewhere

And man I feel kinda goofy I have look this thing over from one end to the other and have yet to find the ambient air temp sensor

So I just unplugged both and a stayed running on both, I did just check grounds to the block and all where corroded I wonder if that could be a issue

So this probably needs to go in the engine and transmission forum but at this point its electrical so I have a 07 with a ai 427 and I believe it has a fuel timing issue that is intermittent, it fuel smokes at idle sometimes, honestly most of the time but there are times it does not but when it does it has a pretty audible fuel knock and gains blowby so I assume its loading up the cylinders, but driving it clears up the only odd thing it does driving is it studders every now and then when you shift gears or get back on the throttle hard, and some times holding at constant throttle it kinda floats around in the rpm, but I am pretty lost at this point I have had the overhead run last month and have changed injectors and eups all parts are mack, but nothing has changed, it has good power when actually driving its don't make oil, so the only think I can come up with is the computer is bad or maybe the eup harness have harness pulled right now and don't see any thing that jumps out at me, but I'm tired of throwing parts and hoping something stucks so I figure I would see what you guys thought

Update issue solved wiring harness behide the passenger side kick panel was rubbing the fire wall and had rubbed through the coating and was ground out on on the fire wall

No I haven't I get a eup 4 code every now and then when its cold but goes away at operating temp but a month or so ago the engine was hanging in the rpms to the point it was hard to shift but was intermittent I sprayed some lube on the bottom of the pedal and it went away but it has always had the dead pedal issue it dont completely go away when it happens but its like you are holding at half throttle and some times it last longer than others some tims its back to back some days it may only happen once or twice

So my truck has a intermittent dead fuel pedal it is a 2007 cv713 I understand having the software updated to step 12b could resolve this but I called my local mack dealer and they act like im speaking Chinese but is there anything else that could solve this issue

So my truck has a AI motor with a t310 behind it and it is honestly a miserable experience I live in the mountains of wnc and maybe 10% of my driving is on the interstate and that is not very flat but at interstate speeds for the most part is okay but any sort of slow moving as in 20 mph or under up grades and around switch backs is awful like embarrassing for one if you miss a gear you pretty much have to stop and restart but I guess my issue is most of the time I have to stop it is because I missed a gear which is pretty normal with this pos Trans and then on the restart whatever gear you start in you are stuck in until the hill planes out because maybe someone can but I am not able to ever up shift fast enough to keep the motor in its power range to continue on because you have to pause for a split second for the rpms to fall and by the time it will happily go into gear its way past being able to pull its self and as embarrassing as this is the other problem is I drive this thing every day and everyday is like my first day I can go for a hour our 2 and not ever grind or miss a gear and then if I grind it once it seems like that is the trend for the rest of the day up shifting is not honestly as big of a issue I have found if you shift around 1800 rpms it normally falls right in but down shifting on the other hand I normally only make about a hand full of down shifts with out grinding every day it honestly surprises me the times it falls in I have honestly found bring the rpm up slowly and trying to slide it in is normally the easiest, and the other issue is that if you leave the engine brake on up shifting is not happening but down shifting is okay as long as you dont miss but thats any truck, all this stuff sounds like beginner issues and I guess it is this is the only mack I have ever drove and if I would have known alittle more about it honestly I probably wouldn't have bought it just as far as the motor and trans go it makes me mad because I have drove trucks for about 10 year and I have driven all different makes and models and have never had any of these issues I have driven pretty much every eaton they make and it has always been smooth, any advice is much appreciated

That would be awesome I may have to make a trip down one weekend and try and soak in some knowledge im hoping to make it into the winter until it slows down some and then I plan on overhauling it

Yeah I have been meaning to get a book and I was aware of the ceramic rollers Its hard to find anyone around that has any knowledge about these everyone around my area just thinks every gray motor is the same but that was another reason I was asking I have messed with plenty of Cats and Cummins but I did know the valve adjustment was much different on my motor

Yeah I am not just terribly concerned with it but more confused that it has never done it before and it don't normally use oil and then after driving it cleared up and hasn't done it since I started it and let it idle for probably 30 minutes today and it never did it but how hard are valve seals to change I normally try to do everything myself but I may leave it alone and see if it does it again

So this is kinda a odd thing that I noticed I did a onsite dirt job the other day so mostly idling and 1st gear and reverse and after a hour or two I noticed a burning oil smell and noticed some oil smoke and it hasn't done this before otherwise other than the smoke it was normal, it does have some blowby but nothing like any of the cats I have drove but the odd thing is when the day was done I drove home and when I got home I checked everything out and no more oil smoke and the exhaust smelled normal I know I need to check my turbo but everytime I have saw a turbo push oil it was worse driving down the road so could I have bad valve seals but it don't normally do this only when idling for extended periods of time and I have ran it every day since April and I check the oil daily and it hasn't used any oil that I can tell

So I put everything on and it definitely helps but im kinda stuck on the tuning how do I even go about that my mack dealer is awful and everyone I know tunes everything but mack

So under light throttle like coasting at around 1200-1400 rpm I get a miss but it goes away with more throttle and if you go down to a idle it goes away and I don't know if it matter but every now and there is visible smoke that comes out of the exhaust at a idle and it just smells like raw fuel

No I have a manifold and s400 off a 2000 R model

So do you think the turbo and manifold will work without upgrading injectors I have talked to Rochester and they recommend injectors and I understand I could get more out of it but I honestly am okay with the power I have if I could really use it with out it heating up so I feel like adding more fuel puts me back in the same boat and I understand etec motors have a different more desirable power range and I assume that's in the timing and fuel delivery in the tune file so would my computer accept a tune file for a etec