martyv231

Hey idk if y'all are still around. I have a question about the 1998 E7 with the spring loaded push rods. I bought a new engine reman with piston, liners, crank, cam, and new heads, were installed from the place I bought the engine. I had to use my old original Valve train, turbo, oil pump, eups, etc. My original engine that I pulled did not have spring loaded push rods they were solid. Also had to get new valve bridges but only the intake ones if I remember correctly (its been a year) and when I put the original push rods in from my old engine, solid ones, there was about a half inch gap on my valve bridges. Then I found out about the spring loaded ones and that took care of the gap problem. The question I have is, you mentioned down below that the spring loaded push rods were paired with ceramic EUP cups, is that necessary to have ceramic for the spring loaded push rods? I installed the regular steel EUP cups when I put the engine in. When I bought the engine, the company I got it from they do remans, said there might me slilght differences. I am wondering what exact engine I have, the original that I replaced was an E7460. This is the first Mack engine I had to get this deep into myself, so I am not sure if the ceramic EUP cups vs the steel , is it going to make a difference with the push rod type? Everything else bolted on just fine and was exactly the same. I have been running it for about a year now with the steel type eup cups paired with the spring loaded push rods. I was wondering if I needed to change the eup cups to ceramic? Is ther any adjustments that you're supposed to do to the EUPs? How often are you supposed to adjust the valves? Thank you! I'm not very good at typing, my apologies. (The place I bought the engine from is a very well known place for reman diesel engines, if that matters at all)

Now I need to find a dam hood. I had someone merge into me last week and she had no insurance! If possible id like to buy a used hood besides turning it over to my insurance and my rates go up. They have already gone way up over the last 2 years for no reason. If anyone know where to find a hood on the west coast for a 1988 to 2004 ch model with set forward axle let me know please.

The engine was a remain from crank to heads. The plug behind front cover was never put in. Thats what happens sometimes when 2 people are working on a truck. Everything is good after i put the plug in. Its been 8 months no problems. Now i need a new hood for a set forward axle ch613 if anyone knows anyone on the westcoast. THANKS FOR EVERYONES INPUT I APPRECIATE IT VERY MUCH.

I AM A BIT LATE FORGOT ABOUT THE POST. When we put the new engine in the plug behind the front cover for the fuel galley was not put in. So all it had was a little bit of gasket silione holding the fuel back untill it gave out. So i pulled the front cover plugged the hole with a pipe plug and thats all she wrote. Sorry for the late reply. Completely forgot lol.

Hello I am looking for a set forward axle style hood for 1988-2004 ch613. Hopefully in Oregon or westcoast area ish. Thank you

Yeah ive heard that. I was tryin to eliminate the easier stuff before ripping apart the front of the engine. I ran some fuel dye in the fuel filter for 40 45 seconds and pulled the blow by by filter housing off since its in the same area. Took my snake camera and poked it in there and did see spots of orange which is the exact same color as he dye. I tried fitting my black light in there at the same time, didnt work. So i need to go buy a better ligtht and smaller. Idk what else it could be on a brand new engine. \

I replaced the primer thinking it was the issue. The reason I replaced the engine with a remanufactored one was due to having 2 leaking liners, cam face was going out, crank wasn't far behind. Then when I pulled the valve trian on the old engine also found 2 cracked valve springs. So I said screw it bought a new engine sent old one in for core charge. While replacing with the engine we put all new EUP, INJECTOR, orings. Since I posted this (I'm not online a lot pretty busy). I have went through put new EUP ORINGS in again checked injector tubes for cracks put the new primer pump in. Still having the issue. Around 2 to 3 gallons of fuel in a 10 hr day of dump trucking. It started happening at around 5000 miles engine currently has 6000 and is parked as of today. I think I'm going to go with the plug behind the timing cover. If it was an injector issue wouldn't it run bad or act like it was missing? This truck has been great in the 6 years I've owned it. Now it's a nightmare that's driving me crazy. I did reuse my old injectors and Eup with new Eup cups since the old ones were defaced from the bad came in my old engine. The only thing that was different in this new engine compared to my old one is the push tubes. This new engine take 6 spring loaded push tubes other wise I would have had a 1/2 inch gap on my valve bridges. That's the only thing different.

Hello I have 1999 e7 460 etech new engine top to heads, new primer pump orings all around. Getting 4 gallons of fuel in 10 hours in oil. After I put 4000 miles on the truck. Used my old eups, injectors. All plugs were put in. Orings looks fine tubes look ok. Not leaking from front cover. Injectors oring good.any ideas? Thank you