tegra1027
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Posts posted by tegra1027
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Thank you everyone for your help and discussion on the sending unit. @JoeH thank you for the pictures! That helps a lot.
For the hood hinge, we replaced all the steel except for the hinge itself. We did sandblast and refinish it however. We decided to basically recreate what was already there. I'm not thrilled with the gap between the hood and the cab, but it isn't terrible. We adjusted as much as possible in the ball joints, but the condenser was our limiting factor.
We wanted to keep the reinforcement for the fenders so they didn't crack. The only thing we decided to do differently was to keep the steel exposed vs encapsulating it in the fiberglass.
I had a picture before the hood was installed but I can not find it. Sorry
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7 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:
I'm not sure if this is the same topic I responded to in another thread, but grounding to the tank may not work.. the tank is insulated by the rubber at the mounts and under the straps..
So the black wire that is coming from the truck should be tied into the gauge, correct? Should I ground that to the truck somewhere?
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7 hours ago, mowerman said:
Hell, I’m scratching my head trying to figure out how you got so much accomplished and so little time. Great progress thanks for sharing. Truck Looks amazing.bob …
Thank you! I have a team here, so it's not just me! It has definitely been a lot of work though!
15 hours ago, mechohaulic said:both wires should be a ground circuit . positive feed will be at the gauge . ground in == ground out to gauge. as the fuel float in tank raises and lowers the rheostat inside on the sender changes "continuity"= short version with wrong terminology, 12-volt ground (black wire) going in/ on sender may be 8 volts out sender (red wire) resulting in gauge not fully grounded and show half tank. taking the red wire to frame providing it does NOT have power and does show as a ground the fuel gauge should jump to full. KEEP IN MIND THIS IS OLD SCHOOL system!! can NOT say it's the same on all this modern computer stuff. I'm trying to put two added brake lights on my 2021 jeep gladiator and I find out it has to be calibrated at the computer. 3 simple tiny wires . checking system having rs light off with my lawn tractor battery ; think two wires touched. now there are only 3 of 4 led lights working on right side and the dash keeps telling me signal light out. point is staying on topic todays electronics are all screwed up.
I couldn't agree more! If you think that is bad, do some electrical diagnostics on an RV... That's some complicated stuff. Thank you for your help!
17 hours ago, JoeH said:Wire it up black to ground, red to sending unit and see what happens.
Sounds sketchy,,, I like it.
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Do any of you know how the fuel sending unit is supposed to be wired? The new tank came with a different setup. It is 2 wires. One of them is grounded on the tank, the other is a positive lead, I assume.
Should the old ground (black wire) ground to the tank and the positive (red wire) connect to the lead on the sending unit?
Both wires coming from the truck were testing as a ground, this is what confused me.
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Thank you! I know that I had taken pictures before the hood was installed, but I cant seem to find them. I will get a few, probably tomorrow.
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Hello. I'm hoping someone can help me. My customer supplied me with a new fuel tank for his 89 super liner. The sending unit has 2 wires. One of which is grounded to the flange and the other needs to get hooked up.
The truck has two wires, both with eyelets. They both seem to be a ground also. (ohmmeter proves continuity to ground on both wires).
Can someone advise me how to wire this up? Thank you.
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On 2/2/2024 at 9:17 PM, yarnall said:
I’m told the repair is to cut out the bad peice of steel and rebuild it like it was originally. I would think someone on here has done it. Maybe someone else will chime in. Nice truck.
That is my plan. Im struggling to figure out what "original" is supposed to be though.
On 2/2/2024 at 9:25 PM, mowerman said:I would get rid of them. Those bolts sticking out would be driving me crazy but that’s just me. Hell you got a lot there to work with that thing will cleanup. Nice. I had an 83 cruise liner look like the same exact grille good luck bob
Im pretty excited about this. Sandblasted the frame on Friday. I'll post a picture when I'm done. I was pretty surprised to find out that the grille is actually a condenser. Regarding the hood, I just want to make sure it is right.
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13 hours ago, yarnall said:There is a piece of steel imbedded in the fiberglass that provides support to bolt the hood to the hinge. Even in the best cared for trucks, the steel rusts and damages the fiberglass. If it gets bad enough the hood can fall off. That is likely what they were trying to fix with the metal bolted one.
let’s see some pictures of the whole trucks.
mike.So, in your opinion, should I keep, or replace, the steel along the front edge, keep steel only behind the hinge, or no steel at all?
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1 hour ago, mowerman said:
this is probably not what your looking for but mine doesn't have anything like that behind the fenders and the hinges just bolt to the fiberglass DM offset cab,,,im thinking someone put those on for possible fiberglass repair reinforce...bob
That's what I was thinking too. The problem is that with that plate behind the hinge, it moves the hood back towards the cab. So I'm not sure what the best option is at this point.
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1 hour ago, Mark T said:
There's a guy Barry can hook you up with for hood hinges I believe.
I dont think I need hinges. I am just inquiring about what is supposed to be there in regards to the strip of 1/4" steel.
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19 minutes ago, mowerman said:
Window assembly you pretty much have to jerk it out as far as hood hinges no suggestions sorry …bob
Thank you.
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Hello all. I am disassembling the cab of this truck for refinish. I have a couple questions that I hope someone can help with.
I am trying to remove the passenger side window panel. I have it just about off but the window won't go down enough in the front to remove the panel. The back of the window is fine, but the front is just barely too high still. From what I can see, it is moving all the way through the channel as it should. Please help!?!?
The other question I have is in regards to the hood hinge. Someone at some point did some pretty haggard work under the hood where the hinges mount. I'm finding a piece of 1/4" steel wrapped up in fiberglass. The steel is about 2" or so wide along the front edge of the fender underneath the headlights. It is also under the hinge. What is proper for this hood?
Thank you in advance!
Refinishing an 89 superliner
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted