RS Disposal

my rocker covers just have 3 bolts that go thru the top with shoulders on the bolt

nope, mine is just a 2 valve endtb675

I actually have 2 sets of new gaskets

It does look like Permatex does still offer "high tack"

Good to know. I was planning on using silicone cause I know my rocker covers were leaking

Now if I can just nail down my turbo parts or rebuilt problem

Thanks, I did the 50 to 125 to 200 ft lbs The retorque spec says 225 so I think that is what I'll do and then just watch for any leaks

My thoughts exactly as to how many engines actually go back to the shop for a retorque. My truck just runs in the city with about 25% fast idle time running PTO. Very little freeway, and at that my truck only really works4 days a week in winter and 2 days a week in summer and even at that an average of 6 hrs is all. It don't work real hard LOL Think I might just got with the 225 ft lb spec ot calls for on the retorque

still wasn't able to find what the differences actually are between the 185604, 185605 & 185606 CHRA cartridge so I ordered a NOS 185606 based on numbers cross referencing on this web page for a 185604, http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19mava4letu11.html . States this turbo is compatible for my mack number 631GC4101P12. Well, I think I may of found what the difference is. The 185606 won't work with my turbo. Compressor side is much larger so I am thinking the difference is probably different sizes on the compressor side. Turbine side appears to be the same but didn't go any further. So, if anybody needs a 185606 new CHRA cartridge I will be listing it on ebay for what I paid $350 plus shipping. On another note, I did get my head back and am in the process of putting it back on. Question is, how important is the retorquing of the head bolts? Do I really need to run the truck under a load for 1/2 to 1 hour or just let it run and warm up for 1/2 to 1 hour? Retorquing will require removing the rocker are assembly again being it covers several of the capscrews. Fingers crossed everything goes good on reassembly

in my search for a turbo (mack number 631GC4101P12) I am finding quite a few sites that are listing the turbo if I use 4LE-303. But there are a few different other numbers that keep coming up. What is the difference between 185604, 185605 & 185606? I am totally confused

Still don't havew my head, but machine shop was confident mid week this week. Was informed by my turbo people that my turbo is bad. He is having trouble sourcing parts thru his normal vendors. So I guess I need to start my own search for either a good rebuildable or an already rebuilt turbo. Any suggestions as to a staring point would be appreciated. Mack part # - 631GC4101P12

Pretty sure I might end up having more questions. Machine shop recommends all new parts. He has the valves and guides and the dealer I believe told me all valve train parts were still available so I am headed to the dealer to get them ordered. Going to take turbo in to make sure there was no damage to it also. Another quick question. I didn't notice and valve stem seals when the head was disassembled. Is this normal for a big diesel engine. Are there actually seals available for them?

Thanks for all the insite. Got word back from the machine shop. Heads was magnafluxed and no cracks. just need to pick up the necessary parts to do a valve job

Being I didn't have a 5/8th tap or die I did order a new pair to do just that

Still waiting to hear back from the machine shop, but upon looking closely when I took it in he didn't think he would find any cracks. But magafluxing will tell for sure. Going to start putting the bottom end back together. Should I use any type of thread locker on the connecting rods bolts? What about the head bolts? I know on the head it was said to dip into 30w oil and my thinking is thread locker requires clean threads. Have to braze the inside of the pan where it appears probably from new, or close to, there is a couple of small holes where the center support bracket was spot welded to the pan. I could never really find where the oil leak was other than assuming that was where it was coming from. Once the pan was off and cleaned, I could see where the problem was and when I filled the pan with water and let it sit, it confirmed my assumption. This has definitely been a journey and learning experience for me and this forum was a huge help. It has just been frustrating in the sourcing of parts, the head mainly. My biggest mistake was not starting off right to begin with and doing my due diligence of tracking parts myself rather than inquiring into several different shops that if they could find parts I would bring truck in. Never heard back from any of them. Guess since my truck wasn't sitting in their shop taking up paying space they didn't really have the incentive to spend alot of time on my behalf. Also on a previous post I was asking about a small difference in old vs new piston weight, being the new piston was slightly heavier than the old piston. I had an "awe ha" moment a bit ago that when I weighed the two I failed to take into account the hole and missing material in the old piston. Pretty sure my weight will be, if not the same, very close to being the same as the old piston before the damage

no problem, I just down load and rotate myself. Greatly appreciate the info

Was there any reference as to tightening sequence.?

thank you

Another quick question. the old piston had just 2 compression rings and the new piston has 3. The third just above the oil rings. I rad that piston weights should all be the same or else it can cause vibration issues. The new piston is .7 ounces heavier than the old piston with just the top 2 compression rings. When the third is added the piston is 1.7 ounces heavier. Is this weight difference going to be a problem and should I leave the third ring off? Should I maybe remove 1.7 ounces of material from the piston itself?

That I have found out and am very appreciative for everyone on this forum

I would very much appreciate that. Also any words of wisdom you can share as far as anything I should do or be on the look out for as I reassemble this engine. I will definitely be chasing all threads and bolt holes so I get accurate torque readings

The help I have gotten here was definitely invaluable and very much appreciated.

Well, I learned my lesson about relying on other people/shops that are regulars in the heavy truck world to see about sourcing parts. Didn't even have the courtesy of letting me know they didn't have time after telling me the would let me know what they find or can't find. Hench started my quest for the parts myself. If I had just started doing it myself I would probably be 2-3 weeks ahead of where I am now. Every website that said they had a head in stock, once I called they did not have one. So I have taken the head into my machine shop (this guy went above and beyond communicating and trying to help me source a head locally. Definitely will have any and all future work I might need done.). Guess I'll see what the verdict is as far as any cracks. Took a jeweler's magnifier eye loop on high power and a real bright light after I cleaned the head and didn't see any possible cracks. Hopefully when it gets Magnafluxed it will tell me the same thing. New valves, seals, seats and guides are all repairable. Have gotten my bottom end parts in so I get to start putting that back together. My shop manual that came with the truck only shows torques for head bolts (175), exhaust studs (35), intake manifold (33-37) & injector nozzle stud nut (16-18). Can't seem to find the connecting rod, pan bolts, water manifoild, rocker cover bolts & turbo mounting bolt torques. Any info in this area is greatly appreciated

pretty sure I know the answer, but have available a head from an engine that is 10 yrs newer than mine. engine model number EM6-300L casting number 5311A also the guy has an engine model number E6-250 Head isn't off the either engine so not really sure what it looks as far as a match Like I said, pretty sure I know the answer and that it isn't a working match

thank you