RS Disposal

the only metal cased rubber seal was the vibration dampener

another quick question. When I opened the gasket set to get ready to put the timing cover on, I noticed lead wire (kinda like thick solder) about maybe 15 inches long. I don't remember seeing anything like this on disassembly. Am I missing something or is this possibly used somewhere else in the engine that I haven't been into on this repair. The set is a front/lower end gasket set from PAI

The new camshaft from PAI arrived last nite. Only ordered it tuesday afternoon. Got it in no problem. Question - Is there anything other than timing marks I should be paying attention to and also what is the accepted procedure to break in the cam?

I totally agree about "all it takes is money" but that is something due to many circumstances I just don't have. My shop just says they can't get a core to rebuild. Maybe it is the attitude of shops in my area. When I first had my breakdown last summer I approached several shops about doing the work. I was either told that they were interested in working on older trucks or that the parts were all no longer available, thus the truck was dead in the water without a new engine swap.

NOPE, not even close LOL

Well according to those who are suppose to know this stuff, it is. Guess I'll find out tomorrow afternoon

The 7th isn't larger than the rest of the journals. They are all the same size. The cam for my engine has a smaller diameter 7 th journal. The book just describes the cam as a larger diameter 7th journal

I ordered the camshaft that PAI shows for the Mack # 454GC568B UPS says I should have it tomorrow. (WOW, only ordered it yesterday afternoon) The camshaft I got that the original description saying it was for the ENDT 673, 675 & 676 was supposedly 454GC580. It has the larger diameter 7th journal. (Sealed Power CS-851) As near as I could tell other than that the camshafts are the same. Maybe that's the difference between a dynatard engine and a non dynatard engine

My truck being older, 1979, and with a brass radiator, my local "go to shop" for heavy truck radiators says he has been able to locate a viable core to rebuild my radiator. He said if he did locate one it would be pretty spendy and recommended I just replace while radiator. As you can see from the pic mine is pretty dead. My question is, I was able to pickup a Mack heavy duty truck radiator where the core dimensions are the same as the one out of the truck. Mounts different, but I have no problem fabricating a new mounting bracket. This radiator does not have the cap in the upper tank. Should I put an inline radiator fill in the upper hose or should I add an auxiliary overflow tank the way my other two trucks are. This truck never had one.

The part number my Mack guy at the dealer gave me was 454GC568B which according to PAI they had several in warehouses across the US Guess I'll see when I get the cam. Also just a FYI my VIN is MR685P1202. All the newer guys around tell me that isn't a good heavy truck VIN, hench why I just go to the dealer.

Seems I REALLY can't catch a break on this engine. Seems the camshaft I picked up last winter has a lrger journal on the rear than the one out of the engine. My bad, I didn't go to the dealer and get a part number to cross reference. This one showed 454GC580. Guess I make a trip to dealer and get a part number before i start looking

I do have a son who is also mechanically inclined that I taught auto and light truck mechanics to. Albeit per 1980"s but some stuff doesn't change. Also have a son in law who has his own truck that does alot of his own work, so I think I am good for a GOOD helper when it comes time. Today is cleaning parts day, worst part, at least for me, in any auto/truck job

No , I DID NOT loosen those 4 bolts. I

Ok, I got the injection pump gear off and the cam out. Cam and lifter re install is a no brainer. My question is on the injection pump gear. I don't believe there will be enough of the threads beyond the gear to be able to use the nut to push it back onto the shaft. Don't really want to do any tapping of the gear to get it down. Don't want to screw up my pump. Any thoughts or words of wisdom? Was hoping the shaft had a threaded hole, but in my initial inspection last nite I didn't see one, but then I was tired and it was dark and at that point my day was 20 hrs long.

Any words of wisdom on getting the injection pump gear off. Does the cam just slide out once the lifters have all been captured?

When it comes to the VIN on my older Mack, 1979, if I go anywhere other than the dealer they tell me that it isn't a good VIN. The one parts guy is old school and he can usually find what I need, if not he gives me the Mack number which helps in researching after market.

I have now know that the E7 lifter is compatible with my E6 engine. I have noticed in my researching that the E7 lifter doesn't have the hole that the E6 lifter does. I can only assume that it is for oil flow and lubrication of the lifter in the bore and or for oil flow up the pushrod. I know the E7 lifter is suppose to have a redesigned and better face than the E6, but is the "no hole" going to be an issue in the longer run for the engine?

My regular parts guy who knows these older Mack trucks was out the day I went in. The younger guy did give me an updated part number to the 72GC347A of 25101042. Either his book didn't give the 72GC357A as a replacement or he just didn't research it. As with the intake push rods of having to order six rather than just the one I needed, I can see the lifters having to be ordered as a set of 12 and at about $350-$400 per lifter that is definitely way out of my budget. Quick question also, I have done a quick search only, but does anyone have a source for a timing cover gasket. Dealer tells me I would have to order 10

Interesting being my Mack dealer here in Salt Lake said that they were no longer available In looking at the pricing per lifter being in the range of $350 - $400 that is more than a little out of my budget. I am just the little guy with one truck where it only really makes money during the ski season (5 months) the rest of the year it just pays the enough to keep truck going. I'm 70 yrs old and been doing this for 62 yrs starting to help my dad when he started the business and not really wanting to put truck to work full time year around.

As far as the broken push rod, it is the same cylinder where the exhaust valve dropped and hit piston. My thinking is that the force of the impact traveled thru the valve train and damaged the lifter or cam lobe. as that damaged progressed it affected the intake lifter or cam lobe. There was a pretty serious tinny, tapping noise just before the engine started missing. I'm thinking for whatever reason the tolerances went south and the pushrod was just sorta banging around which caused it to break. If it would stop raining/snowing I can finish tearing down and see what I might see

AG kits and a few of the other vendors I have used are saying out of stock and the ones that did have in stock the lifter is $225 each. I did find a supplier, Premium Trucks Parts, on ebay that has a few for $155 each, Right now my budget for truck repair took a serious hit last fall when the exhaust valve dropped and hit piston.

it is a standard and I thought of that also, but for me it just seemed easier to count teeth LOL

this is the "B" engine. Not exactly sure if the two had different cams or not. threads I have read on other forums have mentioned that it was their belief that both versions of the engine had the same cam. I will definitely be checking closely and comparing the two once I get the old cam out (if the stinking weather would cooperate, I have to work outside) Have been able to actually find any specs, etc. as to what the differences would be