Trumbull_welding

I already unplugged it no change

I can try and hit each cylinder with my temp gun from cold and narrow it down off temperature of each cylinder in theory the dead one should be running cooler. I don’t know what’s going on with the cutout test cause like I said i shut them all off individually and have no change on 1,5,&6 which obviously with three cylinders dead it would be barley running if at all any other ways you would recommend to narrow down the problem cylinder? As far as determining a bent valve would you be going off just hight difference in the valves? There’s no difference to the eye I can pull the rockers and lay a straight edge across. 

Will do lll get them posted later on today I’m thinking I’ll pull the injectors and drop off at a local shop to test and then I’ll ohm across the eup’s is there any better way to test the electrical side of the eup? And the codes aren’t for specific eup’s or cylinder locations the codes come up on the computer as combustion air humidity and engine cooling fan both say low voltage or short to ground but I will confirm blink codes later on when I’m with the truck.

Thank you for the response! So this evening I went back through the valves and got the most part everything was spot on I made some very minor adjustments on a couple but nothing worth noting. I did inspect the rocker shaft but I didn’t remove all the rockers and what not from the shaft just cleaned and inspected as it came off and found nothing. Cylinder cut out I had no change on 1,5,6 which seams crazy to me because it doesn’t sound like it’s missing on three. I read and cleared the codes before the cutout and after and the only two active codes I have are

mid128 injection ecu sid33 fmi4 low voltage or short to earth 

Mid128 injection ecu sid 274 fmi4 low voltage or short to earth

contemplating swapping nozzles around to see if the problem follows. Any thoughts?

Good afternoon all, 

     I’m working on a 2007 cv713 starts but runs very rough no power and smokes white (smells like raw fuel) I’ll attach a video of the truck running but the back story is this truck broke hold down bolts on the rear rocker shaft and shattered the ceramic lifters, got a new cam new lifters , h-clips rocker shaft hold down bolts etc and valves adjusted. I’ll also type out the codes at the bottom that the truck is showing I did some digging on the electrical side off of the codes that were displayed that was pointing to the computer I tried a known good computer and it did not change. Eup wiring all looks fine and I have not found any damaged wires elsewhere I am going to run back through the valve adjustment to make sure but I’m pretty stumped 

From the digging around I did so far I don’t believe it has a fuse box on the drivers side In the cab it does have one passenger side dash I’ll double check tomorrow 

6 minutes ago, fjh said:

Is there and under hood fuse panel?  If so check it for green fusses ect maybe swap some relays around also you could have a bad relay!

Unfortunately already done under hood and in cab found one relay on the fire wall that was a little green but it was functioning and I swapped it with another to make sure 

2 hours ago, fjh said:

Hmm ! Not a guru on this ! You checked the block grounds and battery nite switch connections ?

Me either lol! Yes sir cleaned all the grounds with a scotch bright wheel and put back togather, battery’s are all good also checked the ground breaker on the firewall and cleaned the connections up there, no easily visible wiring issues without tearing into loom or pulling wiring out from behind eup’s. 

On 3/5/2024 at 8:20 AM, fjh said:

Un plug the eecu and check for coolant at the plug!

No coolant in the ecu plug very slight oil wicking cleaned it out with electrical cleaner and blew out with air made no change, popped the plug apart and inspected from the backside everything looks good, I have 12v battery and 12v key on at the top right plug on the computer found ground at multiple pins coming out off the computer at the other ports but no power at any of the other ports I assume I should be getting some kind of reference or supply voltage comping out of the big port on the left side of the computer no? Also ran a jumper ground wire between ecu housing and engine ground.

all the memory codes are gone just have two active 

PID:412 FMI:5 egr exhaust gas temp: low current or open circuit 

SID:254 FMI:4 low voltage or short to ground 

Two active codes 

33045 : MID128 injection ecu, sid:277, fmi5 low current or open circut

egr exhaust gas temperature 

mid128:injection ecu, pid412, fmi5 low current or open circuit 

memory codes

33037 : mid128 injection ecu, sid269,fmi4 lo voltage or short circuit to earth 

code for each injector all the same being mid 128 injection ecu, sid1, fmi6 high current or short to ground 

and last one is 

control unit 1 faulty: mid128 injection ecu, sid254, fmi4 low voltage or short to earth

24 minutes ago, fjh said:

Yup check the codes! howerver  Does it shut off clean or sputter to a stop! =fuel issue ! Stops clean = Electrical!

Just got to the truck hooked up a fuel pressure gauge getting over 60psi cranking and have blink codes 5-9, 5-8, and 8-1 the 8-1 has since gone away and the first two seam to alternate one or the other. And I wasn’t here when it shut down but from what they told me just a sharp turn off. Plugging the laptop in now be back shortly with actual codes. Thank you sir 

Afternoon all,

     Having an issue with a chn 613 e7 aset the truck ran out of fuel in the passenger side tank had about half tank on the drive side when I got to the truck I fueled it up and primed it got it to sputter and start a few times then no start at all checked cam and crank sense both good. Filters full etc, I then put a gauge on it and was reading 0 psi when cranking I put a fuel pump in it new filters full when installed took a little longer than expected to get fuel back at the lines but got adequate fuel flow after lots of primer pumping , cracked three lines and she started pretty easily and good fuel pressure while running. Truck went on the road today after idling for about 45 minutes made it 5 minutes down the road and shut down both tanks are completely full truck dose not appear to have lost prime. They pulled and cleaned a couple relays and said the truck started and ran for 30 minutes at adle then they ran it for 15 at 1500 rpm and the truck shut down and didn’t sound like it ran empty just shut off. I’m going to plug it into the computer when I get there shortly. Any thoughts?

thanks I’m advance!

I do not have a book I’ll get one though. Cam looks to be in good shape to me. Assuming I don’t find anything else along the way is it possible to get away with h-rings and lifters? Have to pull the heads to do h-rings correct? 

Welp looks to me like we lost a couple of those ceramic lifter rollers your were talkin about. And o-ring possibly from an eup? Getting under to get a look at the cam now.

-Chris 

Had some bad weather and power outages yesterday oils draining as we speak then I’ll get this pan dropped and update with my findings. Should I set number one to TDC compression before i pull the front rocker shaft? Just so i I know where I’m at once there off 

-Chris 

Awesome thank you I’ll get it ordered up 

-Chris 

Thank you sir are there any other specialty tools I’ll need besides the h-ring installer? Do you need the puller to get them out? Id like to order them now even if I don’t end up needing them this time around I’ll need them eventually and I rather have them in the tool box ready to go.

-Chris 

Pulled the rear rocker shaft and pulled the exhaust pushrod from #6 it dosent seem bent to me I rolled it on the bench and put a straight edge against it I’ll post the pictures below. Is it possible the over rev when it ran away could have knocked an h-ring loose? And as you said with ceramic rollers with that much play I imagine there’s a chance that one’s already done.
    As of right now my game plan tomorrow is going to be to drop the oil pan and take a peak from underneath let me know if you’ve got any other suggestions. As always greatly appreciate the wisdom.

-Chris 

This is number six exhaust I’m not collapsing the spring at all what you see here is all lash 

How do I go about making a donation to BMT I’m still a little leery on #6 exhaust I’ve got about a 1/4” air gap between the rocker and contact surface on the bridge and both springs feel sturdy I can’t be that far off on this one. 🤨

-Chris 

I inspected everything else under the covers I don’t see any damage aside from the oversight on my part with the spring so I’m good to move ahead with running the rack as we speak 

No offense taken I’ve run plenty of overheads but mainly delt with Cummins and cat 

And absolutely I’ll do that when I wrap up here this site is fantastic!