Walkyrie_Engineering

I'd like to undelete it, but we bought it this way and I don't know how they did it and I'm afraid it'd cost a fortune that we don't have to get it running right. it appears everything is still hooked up, maybe its possible a new filter and a programing flash wile "cure" the delete but I just don't know enough about the system

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HPRi2PrLsfg8fSkR8

yeah unfortunately our mechanic dropped the ball on us and I had the whole project dropped in my lap, so there are parts I disassembled and parts he did, and I'll admit I'm a little in over my head here LOL🤕 and this truck has Offroad tuning if you catch my drift so I cant take it to the dealer

The crankshaft plug was never unplugged there was a white wire coming from the passenger side of the engine that only made sense to plug into the the harness that the camshaft plug came out of

I still have that plate off, so I can get back there, and thank you I did find a unplugged wire it seemed to smooth out a little, but trying to restart the engine it didn't really like that, I have a video of it running but it's too large to upload.

Is there more than one plug? I plugged in the sensor on the timing gear cover did i miss another one on the back somewhere? unfortunately I'm not the one who took the back of the engine apart.

I just recently replaced the head on our MP8. it went together fairly well, but when re-installing the timing idler gear and the cam shaft I accidently wiped off our timing mark on the backing plate, I had the cam set with the TDC mark in-between the hash marks but I am having doubts of whether or not i had it set on the driver side hash mark so now I'm paranoid I may be one tooth off in timing. the engine starts and runs, the first couple seconds after it starts its nice and smooth then it does a step down that its always done (like maybe a load kicks on or something) and it gets a clacking, it almost sounds like valve tap but it changes in frequency and smooths out a bit after idling for about a minute it gets a rough surging idle, there's a slight hesitation in acceleration but when idled up it runs smooth. and there is also a little bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Am I off on timing a tooth, or could it be Injector rattle, or the new injectors need programed, or the valves need re adjusted? any advice is greatly appreciated.

One of our trucks developed what i can only describe as a rough idle/running issue codes came up for the turbo and Cyl 5 misfire and what appeared to be a fuel oil mixture coming out of the exhaust (grass burner) after research we figured it was a failed injector combined with turbo oil seal failure (probably just wishful thinking and hoping we didn't have to remove the head) we replaced the turbo, and put in a whole new injector set and ran an overhead. after doing so during our test run it still had a rough idle and couldn't even get it up to speed. no codes so we pulled it apart again thinking maybe we mis-seated one of the injectors and decided to do a rudimentary pressure test (really should've done that the first time but hey) every cylinder passed except #5 of course, so reluctantly we pulled the head. and lo and behold #5 cyl exhaust valve was chipped, couldn't find the piece, and no scarring on the cylinder sleeve or marks on the piston and no valve piece, presumably the valve chip worked its way through the exhaust damaging the turbo. we took the head in to be rebuilt and after a 6 week wait due to the shop being over booked they tested the head and it checked out, no cracks, fluxed clean just a bad valve. then we were told apparently the shop can't grind the new seats at the right angle or something and we decided to order a remanufactured head, then allegedly the first head was lost in shipping and now the second head is held up for some valve sleeves that allegedly can only be found in California and Europe which also got lost in shipping from California. currently that is where we are sitting, and i came across your post while researching info because I want to make sure i get the timing right and such when i finally get a head to put on. this particular truck is new to us its a 2013 CHU613 so far the general consensus is the cause may have been from neglecting to do any overhead adjustment in the life of the truck or an improper adjustment, or the #5 injector did fail and created localized temp issues or dry slap that caused the valve failure.

As far as I understand the Pressure from the manifold goes through the hose to the actuator which is basically the same principal as a mini brake can and the pushrod opens up the wastegate dumping excess boost. i guess the ECM verifies this by the Manifold Boost pressure gauge and comparing it with engine data if the boost is higher than the ECM likes it cuts the power to the engine to prevent damage, new turbo came with new actuator, already installed and the adjustment rod is spot welded from factory no leaks in the line from the manifold and the fitting and port on the manifold are clean with no obstruction boost gauge reads accurately just replaced the sensor, either the waste gate isn't opening enough or maybe its a computer issue?

It's directly from the Intake manifold to the wastegate actuator.

still the same, it derates as soon as it gets over 30 psi, my next attempt was going to see if maybe i can adjust and calibrate the wastegate out a little to compensate, I'm not too confidant in it as I've replaced the entire turbo assembly already trying to deal with this issue and I'm still having it. I've replaced the turbo, no air leaks, mechanically everything works, I replaced the sensor, if I can't calibrate the wastegate somehow the only thing left seems to be something wrong in the ECM and that brings on a whole new can of worms. it's supposed to be putting out 460hp but it feels like a prostar pulling down the road, its like trying to pull with a pickup. way too much time spent at WOT just trying to climb hills in Iowa and Illinois I don't know if its the engine just not putting out as much power as it should or if I need to upgrade it to a 13 speed from the 10 speed or a combination of both, but I Know that a Mack should perform better than this is currently

replaced the sensor, and i was just told we're still getting the code.

I believe I have managed to solve 80% of the issue, turns out my cluster gets it's ground and power from my starter. the contacts were a little corroded I pulled them and cleaned them and they haven't seemed to cut out since so to say. except for the fuel gauge and speedometer going slightly off every now and then, I imagine its a bad ground or power wire on them as well but still having problems on tracing down where they ground out and get power. if anyone has any suggestions I'm happy to hear them.

unfortunately, when I went to pick up the sensor last week and get handed a temperature sensor. Naturally they don't have them in stock and had to re-order the part, I planned on picking it up this morning and getting it installed before my driver heads out. I Will keep you updated though.

I agree with that it may be the sensor, I planned on checking that out as soon as my driver gets back tomorrow.

not getting a 2-2 code just a 4-1 and 6-1 but thats another demon altogether ive got that traced down to a bad ground off the starter this 4-5 code has be going on for years now

So Mackpro is most likely on the right trail with his first comments?

I do happen to have a photo

so i'll admit my naivety on this particular subject what is CCRS and CEGR, I'm guessing CEGR is EGR related? unfortunately my driver for this truck left on a run this afternoon

I appreciate your help, I just realized i gave the truck information and didn't say anything about the engine its an E7 460, to be honest I'm not sure about whether its an etech, ccrs or ASET, its just the simple mechanical turbo, not the Holset one that's on the newer MP8's if that helps, i was leaning towards maybe the boost sensor was off since i cant seem to find anything wrong elsewhere, also i wasn't able to pull up the service bulletin you posted

been having this problem for quite some time now, I keep getting a 4-5 flash code and the engine seems to lose power (naturally right before the crest of a hill or right when you most need the boost) I replaced the turbo, so i know it's not a mechanical issue, and checked the airline going from the manifold to the wastegate and no apparent leaks and pushing air through the line actuates the wastegate. so at this point I'm not sure where else to go manifold pressure gauge reads boost pressure is it possible that the boost pressure sensor may be faulty reading a higher psi than is actually there?

been having a growing problem, our gauges keep dropping in and out. at first it was just the fuel gauge being erratic and the speedometer randomly became slightly causing cruise control to kick off, now the entire panel comes and goes, and the seatbelt warning is coming on now. i replaced the entire dash cluster assembly, unplugged the ecu harness and cleaned them as well as some various other plugs i came across. the only thing that seems to have any effect is if I jiggle the bundle of wires coming out of the firewall in the engine bay that run under the truck. if anyone has any suggestions that could help me narrow down the culpret it would greatly be appriciated.