Mack superdog

Was reading about Renault and Mack and learned they made an e5 engine it said they had a mechanical pump and a head for each cylinder does anyone have any pictures of one I have never seen or heard about them 

I’m haveing some gauge issues on my 98 CL with an e9 I think I need to run a new ground for the dash cluster does anyone know what wire is the ground 

41 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

expanded picture large as possible , tough call. based on smooth sides a liner piece would be in top five possibilities. any other contaminates in oil. this is a situation why i always use a clean drain pan when oil changing.  let old oil set a while then run a magnet through see what fine particles show up. oil analysis might help. how was engine running ?? noise/pressure etc

That was the only piece I cut all 3 oil filters apart and there was nothing at all in the papers truck runs fine and has good oil pressure I was just changing oil as normal I do it every 10k miles 

So I found this stuck to my drain plug when I changed oil on my e9 does anyone have an idea what it is it looks like a bushing of some sort but not a main or rod I thought maybe it was from the air compressor so I took an old one apart and nothing in it that’s similar so I’m thinking either wrist pin bushing or maybe the turbo bushing any help is appreciated pictures added below 

That’s the first thing I checked 

I have a 98 CL with an E9 and in the morning when I start it the engine shutdown light and buzzer stay on till I go down the road a couple miles then it will go on and off continuously for a couple more then it stays off for the most part but comes on and off randomly for the rest of the day has anyone ever ran into this issue 

I have a 98 CL with an E9 and in the morning when I start it the engine shutdown light and buzzer stay on till I go down the road a couple miles then it will go on and off continuously for a couple more then it stays off for the most part but comes on and off randomly for the rest of the day has anyone ever ran into this issue 

3 hours ago, fjh said:

I don’t know where you live how ever if you got a local fuel shop you might want to check with them! Also mak sure your air filter is clean this has caused issues in the past specially with a high output turbo and fueled up engines! In the land of oz the v8 was or could produce 650-700 hp we installed an ozy turbo on several trucks here and as your observation 35-40 psi boost was not uncommon! Just tweaked the fuel to the need! Note the drain tube was a little different so beware!

Yes it’s in a dump truck I change the air filter once a month as preventative maintenance and yes the drain tube looks like a accordion 

6 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

As a last result you may have to take it out and measure inlet diameter, turbine diameter, and exhaust housing diameter to find a similar turbo. It could have been ordered from a catalog that's long gone by now. 

Do you want to go back to a stock turbo or do you want to find whatever turbo is on there? 

I wanna get the same one 

I have an e9 noticed I’m starting to get a little oil residue on the cold side can anyone tell me what turbo this is I don’t think it’s stock considering it pushes 36psi on a warm day and 40psi on a cold day i know stock should only be 28psi these are the only numbers I can find there’s no tag where they normally are 

I have a e9 with and in-line pump when it had the air throttle it idled at 850 once I converted to cable it came down to 800 which was fine but sometimes it stalls coming to a stop at a red light so I pulled the throttle lock out a touch to 850 how do I turn it up the right way and what causes it to stall and a high idle of 800 

4 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

I will try tonight when I get home  

Okay thank you 

On 10/16/2022 at 11:37 AM, Dirtymilkman said:

I have a '90 ch with an e6 that has the cable throttle. I removed the factory pedal and put in a setup that is made for hot rods. This way it's closer to the firewall and it's suspended so there's nothing touching the floor. Works excellent and is easier to push. 

Can I see a picture of how yours looks and a link where to get one 

54 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

The cable was available but as far as all the other cab parts for this set up its hard to say what’s available 

I called he said to come down and look he thinks he has a pedal that will work 

2 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

Yes , manual pump with cable throttle 

Okay thank you I’m gonna see if my dealer can get me anything for it yet 

27 minutes ago, fjh said:

 Pro he likely has a V8 these air throttles are obsolete! I is think he is trying to find an alternative! Linkage from a CH may work! with a few Mods! specially at the engine end! I believe that a set up from an earlier superliner would be beter!

I’d like to do linkage but that will be to involved plus I don’t have to much room to work with so i think cable will be my best bet 

24 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

Ch613- 002177 E6 with what I believe has an American Bosch pump on it . Ch613-003377 E7 with a Robert Bosch pump . Originally they used different throttle cable part numbers . Now it goes to the same one 25162402 and plenty of stock out there. 

Are those the vins of trucks that had cable throttles ? 

Yes I’m swapping it in my e9 I’m going to use a superliner cable and copy the bracket on the intake off my dads truck just need the throttle pedal 

Does anyone have a vin number off of a ch that came factory with a cable throttle I’m switching my CL from air throttle to cable but need the cable foot pedal figured I’d see if Mack can get one yet before I make my own

3 minutes ago, BOBWhite said:

Yippee I was just thinking of something like this! This is how I would do it; first off increasing the flow of the pump does nothing but waste fuel for a well tuned motor. (punch a hole in your fuel tank if you want to do that, it would be cheeper) Increasing injection pressure is the key to increasing power and efficiency. If you're going to experiment with anything experiment with cracking pressure, Injection timing, and injector balancing. Thats the key for a good running diesel. 

For the turbo setup twins add two things: complexity and heat (to the intake air) Yes twins can add power but if done improperly you might be disappointed with terrible efficiency and meh power. Caterpillar tried twins in the 2000's and It just didn't work well, too much heat. Thats why most convert those back to singles.  Single is really the way to go for an inline motor but to make more power you need to manage that air better. A single VGT turbo is an option but that comes with a plague of wiring and sensors. Plus you'll have to find a computer to control it. The solution I thought up would be an asymmetric turbocharger or a variable twin scroll turbocharger. It has the ability to vary the boost pressure as well as being very simple in operation and being very reliable. The only thing is how to control it? I think It can be done mechanically but it will take some more thinking. Both Detroit and Cat have been using them for the last 10 years or so and they seem pretty available, sizing might be a challenge though. 

Im not at all one for blowing up or harming motors but I can't keep myself from tinkering. Mack may have spent 40 years working on refining the e6 and e7 but with access to the knowledge and tech we have now its so tempting to tinker with it. I don't think it's a waste of time but I would say negligent tinkering and "I know more than the engineers" attitude causes trouble and waste. To me it's so fun to think about this stuff even though everyone says it's a waste of time. 

I like the way you thing I’m not trying to just blow up a motor for fun I like to tinker as well yes Mack made them for reliability but there’s not too much performance support for Mack like there is cat Detroit and Cummins 

2 hours ago, brettj3876 said:

I would find a mechanical E7 to put in the super liner. Antrim diesel in green castle pa has dyno'd quite a few E7s over the 500 mark. If you want any advice call and ask for Richard. He gave us some advice for building an injection pump. 

That’s the plan after the e6 dies or maybe I’ll put an e9 I have laying around in 

40 minutes ago, fjh said:

May be the the throttle lever on the fuel pump it is spring loaded as  well as all the other springs ! check the pinch bolt for tightness and the little spring on the lever shaft for wear!

Checked that too everything visible is in working order 

Brett thank you I’ve heard e7 should be good for 600hp we had a vision that was a factory 480 therefore they didn’t have that at the limit for hp it could handle there’s room for more 

I have a CL with and e9 in-line pump that has an air throttle it hasn’t ever gave me any issues other that being a little touchy on big bounces but It’s gotten really touchy the last couple days when I’m loaded or empty and go over a bounce the slightest movement from my foot gives it throttle and jerks the drive train I have no air  leaks and both return springs are still on  could the problem  be in the fuel pump possibly 

I have a CL with and e9 in-line pump that has an air throttle it hasn’t ever gave me any issues other that being a little touchy on big bounces but It’s gotten really touchy the last couple days when I’m loaded or empty and go over a bounce the slightest movement from my foot gives it throttle and jerks the drive train I have no air  leaks and both return springs are still on  could the problem  be in the fuel pump possibly