Bret

So I found I have a crack in my exhaust manifold, (2010 mp8). I see there are some upgraded ceramic manifolds that are claiming increased HP, increased air flow, cooler exhaust temps, improved fuel economy. Does anyone have any experience with them? They are about double the price of the original style. Just curious if they make a difference, or is it just a lot of good advertising?

Update: found another broken injector. Got lucky, the Mack dealership had someone return a set of OEM injectors the same day I lost the third aftermarket injector. Pulled out the ones we installed, replaced with OEM. It’s started and ran smoothly, still had the knock. Mechanic had a lightbulb go off, took a close look at the exhaust manifold and it has a crack in it. He’s nearly certain that’s what’s causing the knocking sound. Going to weld a temporary band aid over the crack tomorrow and order a new manifold. Hopefully, the knocking will go away or at least change so I can confirm that’s what I’m hearing. I’ll post an update tomorrow thanks for everyone’s input, this has been a challenging year to say the least

No codes, as far as I know the timing is right. It ran like a top for about a day, then one of the springs broke on the aftermarket rebuilt injector. Within a few minutes of replacing the injector the knocking started. After a test drive it stopped and ran good for a few hours then started again. Mechanic said he’s tested the injectors and that’s not the problem? He’s thinking possibly something with the engine brake but is at a loss. I hate to just start throwing at random things hoping to figure it out.

Sorry, mp8 with Allison transmission. I can’t duplicate the sound while stationary possibly because It will only let the rpm’s rev up to around 1400 in neutral

Hey all, really hoping someone can help me out here. I have a 2010 Mack Ganite with the MP8 engine and Allison transmission. I recently had my fuel injectors, cups, and cam shaft replaced. Everything was running fine except for the loss of prime and the increased cutting out at mid range rpm’s. When mechanic opened the valve cover, he found a roller bearing that had seized up, explaining the need for a new cam shaft. Anyhow, fast forward to this week. After replacing two of the six new, (remanufactured) injectors in the first week, it is finally running and starting smoothly like it should. However, at 1500 rpm’s and up, I’m getting a horrible knocking sound. Mechanic says he’s stumped, and doesn’t think it’s from the pistons or bearings because it only starts making the sound at higher rpm’s. My dump truck has basically now been parked for two months during the busiest time of the year. Any help, or suggestions would be very much appreciated. I can’t afford to have it down much longer…..TIA

I have a 2010 Granite Dump Truck and the washer fluid just stopped working. I wanted to start with the fuse first but I don’t have a diagram showing me which fuse it uses. Does anyone know or have a diagram showing which fuse goes to what part? I’m sure I’ll need to refer to it later on and it would be great to have. thank you !!

Thanks for the reply

I recently purchased my first dump truck, a 2010 Mack granite. I’ve noticed when I run it on the interstate the oil temperature runs between 225-235. The coolant temp stays right around 200. Is that an indication of something needing to be fixed or replaced, possibly the oil cooler? Or are those acceptable temperatures for the oil ? Any information would be appreciated

Thanks for letting me be part of this group. I just purchased a 2010 Mack granite dump truck that was previously owned by a county government in Colorado and used as a plow truck. I plan on using it to plow in the winter and haul gravel/road base in the summer.