HarryBiron093

I put it back together and I’m going to drive it for a few days before I grease it. Thanks for the help Joey Mack !

10/4 thank you all. Much appreciated !

Checked bushing on king pin before install it was nice and snug. Bushing pounded in nice and tight. Certainly didn’t feel loose by any means. The grease gun stops like there’s pressure, similar to when you have a pin that won’t take grease. Just lower bushing the top one greased perfect. Both sides lower bushing have the same symptoms.

Yes sir followed the procedure from start to finish. Put the jack under the pin and put it up into the knuckle then hit the sledge down. Pre lubed pin and packed bearing. Set the upper knuckle to .0015 and with the pressure off I have .0020 which is what the book wanted. Then I go to grease it and the bronze bushing pushes up and locks the whole knuckle solid. I talked to a tech and he has had this happen, he said he ran the truck for a few days on what he called a break in period and then it took grease fine after that. Thoughts ?

Guys, I am redoing the king pins on an RD 688 with a 20,000 lb front. I bought all Mack parts and everything thing went back together perfect until I went to grease the lower knuckle. As soon as I put grease to it it pushes the pins up wedging it. I have pulled it apart thinking I had the lip seal in upside down up it isn’t that. I have the slots lined up so grease should run right up the bushing. Any one seen this before ?

Sounds like a plan. Thanks again !

Thank you very much Joey Mack !!! That’s a perfect solution !

Sorry about that. Not sure why it didn’t load the first time.

Good evening, I purchased a re man last year and now it’s leaking at the second seal in past the yoke. My understanding is that there is no good way to set the pinion preload while the rear end is in the truck. Does anyone have a procedure or advice here ? Thank you in advance. This is a Mack 44 truck year is 2002.

Thank you guys ! I got a used VECU from the dealership and plugged it in and my 3-1 code went away but after driving it I realized that it didn’t have the pyro turned on in the vecu so that’s why it wasn’t working 😂. It’s $700 bucks and it’s 20 years old minus well replace it. I just found it strange that the troubleshooting procedure said to replace the plug that’s all.

Good morning, Truck is a 2001 RD 688 with E7 460. Driving down the road the other day at the engine light comes on and stays on. Its a 3-1 code, I replaced the pyrometer as they seem to only last a year anyway. No change same code still on all the time. I got out the service manual last night and followed the procedure. I figured i would find something in the wiring but it all checked out good less than half a volt everywhere that the testing required and continuity where it was supposed to have it. I get to the second to last step and it has me check continuity between the V2 connector and the rest of the plugs on the VECU. IT says if there is continuity then replace the V2 connector. I had continuity from the V2 plug to certain pins on both the V1 and V4 connectors. The plug visibly appears to have no damage at all how could this be my problem ? Light doesn't ever go out its on as soon as the key is on. I did run jumper wires out of the vecu to the pyro as i wasn't quite sold on the fact that it wasn't wiring. Has anyone seen a failed VECU ?

Good morning, Truck is a 2001 RD 688 with E7 460. Driving down the road the other day at the engine light comes on and stays on. Its a 3-1 code, I replaced the pyrometer as they seem to only last a year anyway. No change same code still on all the time. I got out the service manual last night and followed the procedure. I figured i would find something in the wiring but it all checked out good less than half a volt everywhere that the testing required and continuity where it was supposed to have it. I get to the second to last step and it has me check continuity between the V2 connector and the rest of the plugs on the VECU. IT says if there is continuity then replace the V2 connector. I had continuity from the V2 plug to certain pins on both the V1 and V4 connectors. The plug visibly appears to have no damage at all how could this be my problem ? Light doesn't ever go out its on as soon as the key is on. I did run jumper wires out of the vecu to the pyro as i wasn't quite sold on the fact that it wasn't wiring. Has anyone seen a failed VECU ?

Thank you all so much for the help !

Guys, I wanted to share that we solved the 3-4 code when it’s raining out. The wires going to the cam sensor had a short in them behind the valve cover where it goes over the bell housing. I had some good rain and was able to verify that was causing all the havoc ! Thanks to everyone that helped. The next issue is the engine hunts at idle, some days it does other days it dosnt. The passengers side fuel tank has air coming into it when the engine hunts. I assume the return is on that side ? Where would you check for air ? Plumb a clear hose in somewhere ?

That’s a great idea I will check the vecu tomorrow. I do remember there being dampness on the passengers side floor so I will see if I can replicate the symptoms.