gumbiegumbie

Rick, two bearings two races and a seal he is 5 part numbers but you gave me 6 so what is this 6 part number for?

Thanks Rick!

I have 202/203 rears. I'm needing the pinion inner and outer bearing and race part numbers and the seal part number for the back rear end which i think is the 203. the last 6 of my VIN number is 133939. Thanks in advance for any help with this

I would like to buy a new style ch grill like the one pictured here. Please email me at gumbiewheeler@yahoo.com Thanks!

DCR are you talking about a grill like the one in this picture? If so, thats the grill I had orginally and its all one piece but I'm looking for the emblem that goes on the style grill in my first post up top of this thread. I tried that JP Chrome. They have some nice looking stuff for macks on there but didnt see the emblem I'm looking for. Maybe someone out there has a broke grill laying around that they will sell me the emblem off of, Hopefully!!

I have a 2001 Ch and my old broke up grill has MACK real big across the middle. I bought the newer year model grill with the horizontal lines and its supposed to have a small mack emblem that fits over one of the bars in the grill in the lower drivers side corner of the grill. well I found a truck with that grill and got the last six of the vin and the mack dealer found what was supposed to be the part number, ( 20917691 ) but they cant find any way to order it for me. If you buy the grill it doesnt come with the emblem. I know they have to be out there somewhere to fix a new truck in a wreck / bodyshop situation to put everything back factory. If anyone can shed light on this, maybe a different part number, or if you have a new or used emblem you would sell I would greatly appreciate it. I attached a picture of the grill Im talking about. Thanks!

rhasler, you're extremely helpful! What does the 59572 part mean? Any chance you know the numbers to the hollow yoke screws and the pins that go in the middle of them? I think I've about got everything on the way. This good deal on ebay is turning out to be not so good of a deal since the guy that took it off didnt know what all he needed to take off to make it an add on jake brake like it was advertized. I guess I would have thought all the rest of it was the same to. To the un-trained eye it all looks the same! Thanks for all the help!

This is starting to get pretty involved!! As I read further in my service manual I see that im gonna need a different jam nut for the rocker arm adjusting screw. The manual calls it a "Spherical Jam Nut" and also an "oil supply screw" that I currently do not have since theres no jake brake there needing an oil supply. Unfortunately, the manual doesn't give the part numbers for the missing parts and since my truck doesnt have a brake, my vin# does no good at the mack dealer. Can someone give me the part numbers for the hollow yoke adjusting screws and the jam nuts for them if my current jam nuts wont work, and the actuator pins that go in the hollow adjusting screws, the "spherical jam nuts", and the "oil supply screws" and if theres anything else you know of that goes under the valve cover that is different between a brake equipped head and a non-equipped head, please chime in. I have the brake units, the spacer housings, and the longer bolts needed to bolt everything up. Mainly all the little parts that go between the brake units and the valve train is what I'm missing? If your up on your jake brakes and see that I'm missing something else please let me know and if at all possible throw in some part numbers or maybe someone could give me the last six of a truck that came with a brake so that the mack dealer will look the parts up for me. thanks again everyone! I had no idea this brake install was gonna get so complicated..... I guess nothing is simple anymore!!

Thanks for the good info rhasler! When you say make it work correctly, what are you talking about? What will it do different? Im using all the factory wiring already on the truck. I just added a factory switch to the dash using the plug labeled engine brake, put a fuse in the spot for the brake and gonna use the factory plugs on the engine that are capped off right now. Mainly, is it gonna hurt anything. I think I also have to add a neutral switch to the transmission because I dont think the jake works unless the truck is in gear right? so something has to tell it that it's in gear. I found the spot on the transmission to put the neutral switch and there are a few plugs right there not being used so I figured one of them is for that. When the jake is on and your in gear and the clutch pedal is topped out and you let off the gas is it supposed to do anything besides energize the two wires going to the jake brakes? I dont want to tear anything up! Also am I right in thinking that when I add the yoke adjusting screws with the pins in the middle does that mean that the brake only opens one of the two exhaust valves in each cylinder, being the one under the pin? or is that not how it works? Thanks again rhasler !!

I bought a used jake brake to add to my 2001 E7-400 E-tech. I got the brakes, the spacer housings, and the longer bolts needed. One thing I'm not sure about is the exhaust yokes. Are the yokes the same and only the yoke adjusting screw different, adding the actuator pin, or is the whole yoke different? I added the switch to the dash and found the plug in there for it and I'm told if I add the fuse,breaker, or relay it will work without having to be plugged up at the mack place. I left the switch on by accident after adding it and the truck had a slight delay between mashing the go pedal and it actually going, which makes you look like you have never shifted a truck in your life, so the computer knows the switch is there and its doing something? I thought about running a wire from the jake brake plugs under the hood to an indicator light in the truck just to see if they were getting fire when they would normally be turning the brake on to answer if I would have to have the truck plugged up or not. Basically I just need to know if I need to buy the adjusting screws made for the jake brake or the whole yoke or both? And does anyone know if this thing is just gonna work without going to the mack place to be plugged up? Thanks!

I like the magnets and clothes pins idea. I'll go the the cheap tool store and buy 12 of them cheap telescopic magnets and pull the lifters up and then clip a clothes pin on the magnet and let it rest on the block. I knew I was over thinking it. That was a heck of an idea! Thanks a million!

I was wanting to know if there is a way or special tool, etc... to hold the lifters up while you slide the cam out and in on an e-tech? The heads will be off and the pan will be off, doing an inframe. I think i might have a lobe wore off and after i check it to be sure i just didnt want to have to pull the engine just to turn it upside down as my service manual says. I would much rather just set the cooler and radiator in the floor. BERFORE SOME FUNNY MAN SAYS IT, IM NOT FLIPPING MY TRUCK OVER!!! LOL! Thanks in advance for any and all help.

As I've recently learned it is common for the plastic gear on the fuel pump of an e-tech to spin the middle of it out and then learned that mack smiles when they ask you $260 EXCHANGE for a REBUILT one my question is, " where can i buy a new gear " ? Before any of employees of mack dealerships chime in, I know the textbook answer is " not servicable seperately " as I've been told a dozen times in the last 12 hours. I call bullshit on that one. If these pumps are "REBUILT" and they want my "CORE" someone is gonna fix it. Well I took the gear off my pump and then knocked the brass insert out and punched about 30 or so divets in it with a punch and then mixed me up some JB Quick and smeared around on it and drove the insert back in the plastic gear and let it dry while I ate lunch and then pressed it back on the pump pushing only on the brass insert with a socket and the pump ran the rest of the day perfectly. I dont want to ride around wondering when the JB Quick is gonna give up but I dont want to buy a $260 pump either when all I need is a gear that I know is out there somewhere, where ever these cores are rebuilt. Does anyone have an inside track on how to get a new plastic gear. Hopefully someone on the forum knows someone that will help a brother out and not just gouge us for a whole new pump. Ive searched it every way I can think of on google and came up with no names for pump rebuilders that might point me the right direction for parts. I know the parts counter at mack aint gonna help, all they know is "not servicable seperately". When I asked him why they wanted my old pump if those gears were non existent he said "I dont know" Thanks in advance for all help. I know that this might seem petty to some but I believe in fixing things not just replacing them. If my bearing goes out in my alternator, I put a bearing in it, I dont just run buy a new alternator, know what I mean? I know there are more of you out there like this, lets hear it!!!

Hey HK, I put the back box off a 13 speed on my 9 speed and we changed the top gears in the rear ends to 16-17 to come up with a 3.86 ratio and it all works great. I to was concerned with take off and hurting my NEW clutch with the tall gears seeing how its just a little 400 horse motor in a dump truck usually loaded around 70 to 75 thousand and constantly off road in soft ground. The guy that did the book work for me got the tag number off my transmission and the tag number from the one we got the 13 back box off of and he told me that the .73 high gear was gonna stay the same so I would get the top end difference I wanted with the different rear end gears and he told me the 13 box had a different reduction gear than the 9 which made gears L,1,2,3,4 lower and the lower low range gears would make up for the high rear end gears and still have good takeoff. Then when I got to high range the thumb switch would take care of the tall gaps between the high range gears so it would keep the tach up in those gears as well. I guess he was right because she takes off better than she did before and once im in high gear my rpms are close to 300 less than they were at crusing speed and if you hold it down the truck will get up there real close to 100MPH which is waaay faster than anything or anyone on in or around that truck needs to be going. I might have just got lucky but it all worked out great. I think when we changed the back boxes we also had to use the accessory drive gear from the 13speed but not for sure. They might have been the same. Alot of what I do is based on dumb luck but I always say "I'd rather be lucky than good any day"

It didnt take long to clear up that question. Today when I was asking around in person I seen one of those gear charts bollweevil speaks of but the man only had one and no copy machine and when I asked to leave with it to go make some copies, " even some extras for him " you would have thought I asked for the key to his saftey deposit box. The reason I want to change goes as follows. I have a nine speed fuller that I have researched on and found out that top gear is .7 something and I have 4.78 rears best I can read the dots on the housing and my truck tacks high and runs slow everywhere I go. Well I want to change to something like a 3.90 ratio and I want to put a 13 back box on my transmission that if my research is correct ends up with almost the same top gear ratio of .7 something but will allow me to split high range gears to keep my pulling power but once i get to crusing speed in top gear, my revs will be a little lower and also let me go faster should the need arise because now it tacks out at about 71 or 72 MPH. Back to the man with the chart, he told me that I could leave my bull gear and the shaft gear alone (( he said I had a 14 - 51 )) and change my ring and pinion to 16 - 17 and this would give me as close as I can get to 3.90 without changing the bullgear and shaft. Using the math above I get 3.86 ratio which is only .04 from a perfect 3.90 I was shooting for. Let me know what ya'll think. Also, does anyone have a gear chart they can post or a link to one that can be printed off? Come on bollweevil, you know you have one somewhere!!!! Yall let me know if I'm headed in the right direction. Thanks everyone for all the great info!

I'm interested in changing gear ratios to some higher gears and I was wanting to know if this is done by changing the top two gears by the driveshaft or the bottom two gears. I seen some gear sets on ebay that were the top two little gears and they were listed as working for 3 different ratios. Someone else told me that the big ring gear and what he called a bull gear that pulled it were all the same and the ratio came from the pinion right behind the yolk and the gear it meshed with. Is this true or is he wrong? Thanks in advance for any info!

thanks a million for the response fjh. I was really hoping someone would respond tonight so I could get my truck back together before monday morning. To answer your question, I replaced the inner and outer cam and the peanuts. I dont have any way of knowing the torque but my 1 inch wrench took it off pretty easy so I'll just let it hit for a few seconds longer when i go back and I'll be sure to locktite it. I got the truck used and I'm sure the mismatched tires are what caused the problem but It wasnt me that done it and I assure you after this you wont hear about me running any mismatched myself. Thanks for letting me know about the inner cam grooves because to tell you the truth I didnt even notice that one side has those two little cut outs in it. Thanks again for the fast reply and all the help.

Hey I took my power divider apart and all but 2 peanuts are all chewed up and you cant see the arrows on those two and my new parts didnt come with any instructions and the parts guy told me that everyone that knew was gone ( saturday afternoon ) but he said that the arrows on the peanuts had to be pointing a certain way. So do they point to the center or to the outside? Thanks in advance for any info on this. I hate to guess at it seeing how the parts are over 600 dollars.

We have often said " boy this is gonna tear some s@#t up if one of these blow out. Especially when were airing them up and they call for 130 cold, imagine the pressure hot, but knock on wood it hasn't happend yet! Those are also one thing it pays to spend an extra few hundered and get a quality name brand tire. Alot of people will go with a cheaper brand because the floats are already high to begin with. Aside from a blow out, I bet you liked the extra stance it gives you in soft ground, I know I do. I can even tell a difference taking off in soft ground because you can get off the clutch quicker since the front end isnt sunk down. We run dump trucks with steerable pushers and they arent the fancy ones that steer backwards too so we pick them up to back up and thats when the front end gets major heavy for a few minutes and thats when the floats really pay off. How wide is the face of a 12r anyway? Ive never seen one.

Theres only 2 places an airbag belongs on a dumptruck and thats under the cab and under the seat. Camelback is by far the best running, toughest, and most easy to maintain suspension for a dumptruck. The biggest advantage is that it is centerpoint, as are some others, like walking beam and chalmers etc... meaning that the drive axles articulate on uneven terrain and until you run out of travel and a stop block contacts the frame you always have close to the same weight on all the drive tires. The stop blocks are there to control driveshaft angle to keep from binding u-joints and breaking yokes. Ive only ran out of travel one time since I had it and I really shouldnt have backed it off the road where i did, it was so steep that I only raised the bed one stage of the cylinder and it was completely dumped. We have to cross alot of shallow ditches and with my old airride truck the front axle would drop in the ditch and all the weight would go on the back axle and then the front axle would spin out so of course you had to lock the power divider to get across and we broke a many power dividers making one axle do all the work not to mention I dont know how many Z-Springs when you load one axle all at once with a bump or a dip. My camelback truck will idle right through twice as deep a ditch like a tank. I could go on for days about this. The only thing I ever liked about my air ride was the smoother empty ride because empty the bags have less air of course and are softer, my camelback is still 44,000 empty and if a good bump sneaks up on you, you can get daylight under the tires. If you plan on leaving the pavement, go camelback, you wont regret it. This is off subject but if youre getting a new truck you should also consider float tires for the front, theres as much difference between those and skinnys as there is between camelback and airride.

That would be wrong on several levels to bolt a cat up to a dog. ( LOL!) The link to rochester fuel has some injectors but the only turbos I seen there were stock replacements and one performance wastegate style turbo. Anyone have a link to somewhere that sells the bigger, non wastegate turbos? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Well I guess I'll just leave it alone if its thats much trouble. I really like how it locks when it needs to I just dont like the popping all the time. Someone else said something about miss matched tires making it pop when I first got the truck and I knew it was fixing to have to have tires so I just ignored the popping until I put 8 virgin tires on and I will admit it done it less after that. Is it just the normal way it works for it to pop now and again when it locks and unlocks or should I never even know when it does it if its working properly. I'm wondering if something needs to be fixed but I dont want to spend alot of money if thats normal. My front driveshaft is one built at a shop and I'm almost positive it doesnt have the cardboard silencer tube in it anymore because you can hit the shaft with a wrench and it ((( rings ))) like a tuning fork which only magnifies the sound when the power divider locks in and out. Just let me know if yall think it needs attention or if I should just drive it until it breaks and then worry about it. Thanks!

thanks for looking that up for me. I guess if you gain one thing ( cheaper turbo ) you lose something else ( cam key ). I almost would rather have bought the expensive turbo than have to go into the engine for something like that. I'm gonna put gauges on the manifold and fuel pressure this weekend and I'll post the numbers and see what you think. I havent even looked at how this engine comes apart. Can the cam gear be pulled off with the cam in the engine or maybe just pulled out a little ways so I dont have to take all the coolers off the front? So are the stories you hear about people making 550 with these engines just stories or is it possible. HEY since I have the older style etech does that mean that I can use that blixxton module?? I'm gonna go now before you get tired of me asking so many questions. thanks again for the great info.

My truck has the power divider that locks by itself and I'm wanting to change it to an air operated one. My dads truck has the air operated one and with the trucks side by side it looks like everything is the same size and bolt pattern and it just seems that if I had the air power divider off a salvage truck it would go right on there. My question is Will it??? Has anyone done this swap? Will I have to change the shaft or is it just as simple as unbolting the power divider on there now and bolting the new one in its spot and running an air line? They look the same length as well so im thinking i wont even have to change the lenth of the drive shaft because if there is a tiny difference im not seeing the slip joint should compensate for the difference. Yall give me some input, let me know if you think this will work. I know some will want to know why I want to change it, and my answer is because it makes a ping sound when it engages and/or disengages and everyone says thats normal and just the way that piticular one works but I dont like it. I want to be able to lock or unlock it myself. ((( I guess its just a control issue LOL!!! )))

thanks for the link bts-4120, those injectors arent that bad. about 600 and my old ones will take care of them. and thanks mackpro-68 for all that info. my truck is a 2001 so by your info that makes it a ccrs right? what does ccrs mean anyway? When you say a download from mack, can someone with a handheld thing that sets top end limits and stuff do that (( like a friend at a trucking company running macks )) or is it something more technical than that. I street race cars and I do my own programming on cars with a laptop so I'm not a stranger to flashing a computer I just dont know if his programmer will go the depth needed to do what youre talking about. The reason I'm trying to advoid the mack dealership is because the one close to me isnt one of the cool ones thats into making things bigger better and faster, they are more like "" be glad you have 400 and go away "" so I need to be able to do most of this myself. The wastegated turbo you speak of, is the wastegate electronic or mechanical? Hopefully mechanical because once again thats easy. And the other replys about gears and trans, I have a fuller 9 spd. rtx14609 sittin on tall 24's and its not fast on top end only about 80mph tached out so im guessin its got lower geared rears but i havent looked at the tag yet. I want to swap the back box on the trans to make it a 13spd so maybe I can keep the tach higher in the upper gears. Mackpro-68, on the cars we download files and flash them to the computer but you said they fax you what you need so is it just some values to change in the computer or is it more complicated than that. I know I seem like a little kid that needs some riddlin but I'm just very excited to know that there is hope and it is something that the average person can do without having to give up half your savings account. The last six of my vin is 133939 if you could tell me more about what i have and maybe the part numbers for what injectors and the turbos you were recommending, normal and wastegated. Would the injectors bts-4120 linked me to be good ones? They say stage3, so what boost levels should I shoot for with those. Also will the bigger turbos breathe through the stock air cleaner canister? I'm very happy to find people that will shed light on this subject instead of just telling me to be happy with what I have. Thanks a million to everyone.