gumbiegumbie

Well I got the heads off and number 4 was the culprit. Chalky white all over the top of the piston. Not sure if the heads cracked or the gasket blew. I had that head off a while back to put a sleeve in and I'm thinking wrestling the heavy head by hand up under the windshield cowl I might have nicked a gasket or fire ring. The flip side to that is that would make me think it should pressurize the radiator like it did when the sleeve cracked that I was replacing and it would be blowing water everywhere out of The Purge tank up top. So that leads me to believe maybe the heads cracked and the water is coming from within the circle of the fire ring through a crack in the head. Have a machine shop going to check the head Monday morning for cracks and if it's good I'm going to clean everything up and slap a new gasket on it and hope for the best. I put a straight edge across the top of all the sleeves and they are all perfectly the same height. I say that because I questioned if I got the sleeve pushed in all the way back when I replaced it but everything does look good there. I'm going to rig-up an electric hoist this time so I can control the head a little better and guide it straight down onto the gasket and dowel pins. Last time between being aggravated and tired I'm sure I scooted the head around a little until it fell on the dowel pins and probably screwed a gasket up. I'll post Monday and tell y'all what the head man says.

Thanks dscannon! Didn't think of checking that and that really isn't that much work to yank the turbo and exhaust manifold. I don't mind fixing anything but I absolutely hate figuring out what to fix. If someone could just say , "hey you need a sleeve in #5 or your front head is cracked" I would smile and say give me a few hours. I never saw any steam out the pipe but maybe the weather is just not right to see it or something?? I'll try these ideas tomorrow and get it figured out. Thanks again to everyone!

We live in a little hick town in the middle of nowhere Ville I'm not sure where to even begin looking for somewhere to send an oil sample? I've driven the truck somewhere around 300 miles today and have put over six gallons of water in it. I should be able to find water in the oil if that's where it's going I would think. If it's the air compressor does it put the water in the oil or does it put it in the air tanks?

I'm going to drop the oil pan tomorrow and pressurize the cooling system and see what's dripping. If the air compressor was doing it the water should be visible, coming from the coolant bottle or something. I'm thinking it has to be in the oil. Not sure why the oil doesn't look Milky with that much water in it but that's got to be it.

How easy is it to rupture an oil cooler on the inside? I ask because the reason the radiator cap was replaced was because the rubber on the cap swelled up and got deformed and wasn't letting the pressure bleed off to the little weehole to the other tank and I blew a couple radiator hoses off. The radiator cap fixed that but now it's losing coolant. I'm wondering if maybe the oil cooler got ruptured and it's just letting water go down in the oil pan. I don't have any of the Milky stuff in my oil but it seems like I'm gaining oil on the dipstick. Going to keep an eye on it the next time or two putting water in and see if the amount of water I'm losing its close to the amount of oil I'm gaining. What besides the oil cooler could be putting water in the oil?

I put a new radiator cap on yesterday. It doesn't have a transmission cooler. The water pump bolts are all there and there's no wet spots anywhere around the water pump. I didn't see any milky stuff on the underneath side of the oil cap or on the dipstick or running my finger around the blow by tube. If I check the oil closer and find water are you thinking oil cooler or a sleeve? Looks like a sleeve would make the truck run bad and it runs good. It's not running hot as long as you keep water in it and it's not missing or stumbling or weak.

My truck started something new today. About every seventy or eighty miles 100 at best my low water light comes on and I stop and fill it back up. I stopped on dry clean concrete and can't find any water dripping anywhere can't find any wet spots on the motor, radiator, or nothing else. Pull the oil cap off to see if it looks milky underneath are any steam coming out and found neither. Can't see steam coming out of the exhaust. Look down in the water bucket where the hose comes up from the motor looking to see if there were bubbles coming up like a hole in a sleeve or a head gasket or something like that and can't find anything. Any more ideas on where this water might be going? It's a 2000 etech 400. Doesn't have EGR cooler or nothing like that. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

I have a davco fuel filter and you can see the fuel in it so I had dismissed the fuel supply line. That might be incorrect thinking? I just changed my other 2 spin-on fuel filters and it done it before and after so not sure about the filter o-ring. I guess next I'll change all the short lines that go back and forth across the top of the motor to the filters and fuel pump and back to the block. If it sucks air when the motor is off wouldn't it be messy when it was running and had pressure?

If fuel is there, what would you look at next. It's cranking like when you run out of fuel or change a filter without filling it up. That's why I think it's fuel. Just trying to figure out whatsomething letting it drain back. The little line coming from the head is on the tank side of the check valve so how does that work?

After my truck sets for a few days you have to start it with ether. Once you start it you can start it easily the rest of the day and maybe even the next day. The truck was smoking a little bit too much leading me to believe the injector tips we're not sealing good and I had some more I wanted to put in any way and that fixed the smoking but not the cranking. The line between the heads isn't leaking and the line from the front head around to the block isnt leaking so I'm thinking it has to be the check valve letting the fuel rail drain back to the tank. Am I on the right track? Oh yeah, it's a 2001 etech.

Well, got it back. Wish I would have left it alone. Now my malfunction light stays on for a 55 code saying the shutdown lamp is messed up. My Jake brake doesn't work, the switch won't even light up and it's not a breaker or relay, my transmission temp gauge won't read, and most of all it doesn't run any different and cost me over 1200 bucks to get it flashed. My advice, if you have an electronic Mack leave it alone. It is what it is and you're not gonna make it better. If you're following this thread and thinking about upgrading your etech, don't. If you want to make power, start with a old mechanical motor with a pump that you can turn up at a good old fashion pump Shop. Thousands in on injectors, turbo, cam timing, reflashing, and a few other things for what's equal to about a 350 Cummins.

It's a 2000 by the vin# 2001 by registration. Either way it's in the range. When he puts the 460xt vin in the laptop on the engine side it tells him he can't get into the vehicle module to set parameters because of a vin conflict between the two modules. What are we missing?

I know this thread is old but this project got put on the back burner for a while and I finally went back and picked up where I left off with the programming from the 460xt vin# and the Dealer is having trouble because it's saying my vehicle module isn't on the list 4 compatible modules for that engine module programming. He's thinking there is a way around it but we haven't figured it out yet. Any ideas? Basically it's saying that my vehicle module won't communicate with the engine module if the engine module has that programming in it. Don't know if we need to change the vehicle module or if there's a way around it in the laptop or what?

Thanks for the link. That is a big kit for doing several different welding jobs on plastic but those people have a smaller kit for $70 that is Ange strictly at radiator tanks. Comes with the iron and some nylon rod to fix it. They have a video on their site and it looks easy enough as long as the video wasn't staged. Got one on the way I'll let you know how it works. Thanks again

the valves probably aren't set right and you are not getting compression. I would think if you gave it either all that other stuff wouldn't matter like fuses and sensors it would at least burn whatever either it sucked in as long as it has compression. Seen a lot of overheads get done incorrectly even more so when the truck has an engine brake.

Working on a 2001 ch613 with the crappy plastic radiator tanks. My orginal radiator cracked under the top neck and I replaced it with an all aluminum radiator and that radiator got a leak that couldn't be fixed so I went back to a stock style radiator off a broke down truck. now this radiator is leaking under the top neck. Another guy I work with had the same problem with his CH so it must be pretty common. So is there some kind of plastic weld, epoxy, or anything that will fix this? I know JB weld wont work, tried that on my orginal radiator. It would just leak out from under it the first time it got hot. Would love if there was some kind of two part stuff like jb weld that was made just for this that was maybe a chemical reaction that would actually melt or bond into the plastic kinda like vulcanizing glue for tire patches. Stuff that strictly sticks to the surface just wont work. Are there radiator shops out there that can replace the tanks on these radiators? Im in small town usa and there are no shops around here that can. Any ideas? Im tired of replacing radiators.

got a etech 400 that was running fine one second and the next its knocking and smoking and smells like raw diesel out the pipe. So I start pulling injectors and #5 the tip was cracked so I replaced that and now she fires up and runs and revs smooth but it looks like ole-faithful coming out the radiator cap. I understand that compression is pressurizing the cooling system but if its losing that much compression I don't understand why its not missing. Yall think its more likely to be a head gasket or cracked sleeve or cracked head. The injector shop says their money is on the head being cracked and spewed water on the hot injector tip and the instant cooling cracked it. This truck wasn't even in a hard pull when this happened I was easing down a gravel road about 15 taching maybe 800. Almost free rolling. Opinions?

I lied, there is a v-belt pulley up there that goes over to the air conditioner so I guess I need the short shaft part number. Thanks again for the info

Thanks! I don't have the V belt pulley only the serpentine so I'm guessing I made the long shaft part number m2x. Let the search begin. Thanks again

Im looking for a water pump for a 2001 ch613 etech . I'm looking around on amazon and ebay and such because they are $75-ish and my local dealer wants $375-ish. I really wish I could find a seal for mine. The bearings are just sealed roller bearings and not that big of a deal to find and if I could find a seal I could just fix mine. Anyway, keep coming across the brand cardone and I have used that brand on cars and pickups with pretty good results so I want to give it a try. Problem is there are 3 or 4 part numbers that are 1 digit difference and the pictures all look like the same thing and I'm not real sure which one is the right one. My water pump says 360GB52M on it. The truck is a 2001 ch613 etech 400. last six 133939. it has a 10 rib serpentine pulley and a horton HT650 air fan clutch. not sure how much of that matters but wanted to include as much info as possible to help you help me. That said, any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Now that you mention it, it does only come on first thing of the morning when its cold outside once the truck is warmed up a little I never see it. I think you're right, as long as it stays running good I'm just going to let it ride. Thanks for the info

I have a 8-4 EUP code coming and going on and off. The truck runs fine either way? Reckon this is just a glitch not needed to be worried about or is it a sign of something to come?

I'm looking for the part number for the door sticker that has the weights on it. I need a sticker from a granite or a CL, etc.....one that shows 44,000 rears and 20,000 front. Thanks you in advance for any help.

Scratch that, went back a page or two and seen where you said it was a 99 model and wouldn't load on 02 or newer ccrs so I'm just gonna take your word for it and have them do it. Thanks for all the help.

Mackpro, I finally got on the same page with the dealer and they are going to flash the truck for me. The VIN number you gave me shows to be a ccrs engine and mine is pre CCRS so will the programming still work or do I need to try to find a VIN number thats pre CCR s thanks