Offroadingrlife

8 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Engine, Tranny, Rear ends, History...the rest is just visual. Oh yeah... a test drive... jojo  

Yeah I figured besides the usual good things to check if there was anything more specific 

Alright. Going to look at another truck this weekend. Anyone have a good list of things I should check besides the usual tires, brakes, clutch, fluids, body, frame? Just want to make sure I give it a good look over 

4 hours ago, tjc transport said:

steel.  the weight difference is not enough to matter. 

one chunk of asphalt in the millings pile is all it takes to poke a hole in an aluminum body. 

 

The weight difference doesn’t really matter. But I found a clean truck down south, no rust which is what I want, but it’s got an alum bed, it was previously used for paving. 

Anyone have a preference on steel vs aluminum beds? Truck is only going to be doing asphalt and milling. The bed looks to be in good shape has some welds but not to terrible. Thoughts?

5 hours ago, wilbur said:

I had a message on here and opened it ,this is what it said unbelievable  Copied and Pasted.

Hey. I'm Elsa. I'm 35 years old. I broke up with my boyfriend 6 months ago. Since that time, there has been no sex in my life. I'm looking for a man. I look forward to having sex at least once a day. Register using the link below and write to me. My nickname is sexyelsa41. 

You got the message on here or your email? I got the email I got a pm but nothing in my inbox. Whatever you do don’t click the link!

I got the email too, is it a message from the site or they got access to our emails and spoofed the email?

The 96 ended up being not working out after looking at it in person. So while looking today I found a 03 that looks decent, but again almost 600k miles and motor hasn’t been touched. Going to take a look at it later this week. Trucks a 1 owner and extremely well taken care of but the miles still scares me. 

On 3/7/2021 at 4:17 PM, Pete Wallace said:

I can almost promise you that what you have figured out “on paper” will not be reality. It never is.  And if you think trucking is going to make you tons of money, it won’t. I was born into it started at 13 had my own truck at 16 (yes I’m old you can’t do this today) but I never made what I thought I was going to make.  There will be expenses that you never dreamed of. Buying an older truck is a hit it or miss it proposition, especially as you seem to be new to trucking.  You really don’t know what you are looking for. Or what you should be looking for.  My personal opinion and it’s only mine I know you really want to do this but I believe your are jumping into something you may not be prepared for. 

While I will agree with you that I’m jumping into something I’m not fully prepared for, it’s a risk, and sometimes you have to take the chance and give it a try, if it doesn’t work out, it’s not the end of the world and I’ll move on to something else. I’ve always heard to make a million dollars trucking Start with 2 million. It certainly won’t make you rich but.

On 3/3/2021 at 11:07 AM, tjc transport said:

Same with high side splits..90%of the time I run the 18 speed in the low boy as an 8 speed. Only split them when i need to.

So it’s possible to drive an 18 as an 8 speed without issues, and I’d you needed to slit you can? To me with an 18 speed in a dump truck is imagine your going to be shifting nonstop and would get old fast with an 18 speed?

I decided to try to up by budget a bit, I found a 96 cl713 locally been rebuilt, has 7-800k total on truck. Price seems pretty fair for it. But it’s got a 18 speed. I don’t know much about the 18 speed but I feel like with an 18 your going to be shifting so much it’s going to get annoying. But just figured id throw in a little update 

4 hours ago, storkmack said:

99.99 chance they are not the split style.  Dayton’s are simple and no impact needed to change one if you are in a bad spot.    They are heavy and the brake drums are expensive. 

I’ve watched some videos on them, they look a bit complicated, but I’m sure after a few times it becomes a lot easier. Just something else to have to learn I suppose. But I don’t think it’ll make me pass on a truck because of it. 

Any downsides to running Dayton style wheels? I found a 98 rd that every wheel is this style I believe it’s Dayton. I don’t believe they are the split style but could be wrong. 

Is there any advantage/ disadvantage with the bed overhang over the cab vs the other style in the pics below? One sticks out more than the other style 

45 minutes ago, Rob said:

The best thing you can do, (my gut feeling) is go lockstep with someone who's been, or is there. My suggestion would be to hire on with someone for a year or two and as mentioned earlier, "get your feet wet". You won't drown that way.

I really don’t have any interest in working for someone. I know it would be the better way to get into it, but that’s what I’m trying to get away from and work for myself. 
 

The whole idea behind buying the cheap truck with cash is that I then have a good size emergency fund for the unexpected repairs that can come up. I’ll have to see if there’s any local companies that are hiring, and explore that possibility. For now the truck hunt continues but with exploring the possibility of employment. 

On 1/24/2021 at 9:08 PM, Rob said:

I very well knew what you meant but you will tire rather quickly at making less than a "living wage". If you have no, or limited experience in this business you would be well served securing employment with an employer for a period of time to get your feet wet; then make your decision. A small entity will usually allow you to see how the administrative functions of a business works. No experience in running a small corporation, or a sole proprietorship can yield both rewards, and/or nightmares. A small business class at the local community college can also be a large benefit.

If you don't plan on bringing in at least $150K a year on the gross side you are going to have a rough go. At least 2/3 of your gross receipts, (conservative estimates) are going to be placed right back into the business and it's operation and if your not planning to pull at least $50K yourself, you would be wasting your time and efforts.

It may be caustic sounding but I really hate seeing young guys going broke right out of the gate.

I understand what your saying, obviously I don’t want to buy a truck right out of the gate make mistakes and go broke! I’ve been researching this for a little while now.

I do have some experience running a business, but not a lot. 
 

ive done a bunch of math on paper and if the weather holds out and I can work the truck as much as I’d like to, I think I can do pretty well. The issue before jumping into it is finding the truck. And that’s where I’m stuck, I have a budget in mind, but Eveything in the budget that I’ve found the rest is the trucks are clean but the frame has some seperation and I just don’t know enough about it to know if it’s going to cause me issues. The season is fast approaching here and I need to start making some decisions on if it’s something I’m going to do or not this year. 

7 hours ago, Rob said:

You wanting older, simple, and economical to keep maintained? Get yourself an older R686 series and install a Detroit Diesel 6V-92TA under the hood, and a Mack T2090 or Fuller behind it if the original engine is bad. Don't try to run the std TR-107 series or six speed TRD-107 series as the Detroit's don't have the torque band to fit. Fix it with a hammer, pliers, and RTV for the most part. Very easy to bump horsepower to what is considered acceptable levels with this engine when tuned correctly and they are damned reliable. Parts are well supported by many aftermarket vendors also.  

You are going to be hard pressed to destroy an older R series originally equipped with a Mack driveline, but parts do wear and are usually supported through PAI and other aftermarket venues. Of course if you purchase a well worn unit up front, there will be repairs and upkeep needing prior address before moving forward with the project if it is to go anyplace. It does sound as if you have a bit of time on your side and you should use it accordingly to locate what you are looking for, or are willing to undertake.

You only get out of, what you put in. An older truck is an investment in your future; same as a newer truck. It can be done, but you'll need to stay on top of it to become, and remain profitable with either avenue. A benefit as I see it is an older truck does not have the massive overhead of a newer truck; especially when it comes to reliability issues and associated downtime so many have experienced. 

Your earlier statement of not paying a driver is erroneous. You yourself will be driving, but I don't really think you are willing to perform the service without a wage. The truck will have to work to provide that wage, and it's upkeep, so you will be paying a driver, along with funding the operation.

I'm just a newbie around this arena, but here I go with all that guessing again.....

The part about paying the driver.. what I meant is I’m not hiring someone and laying them 25-30 an hour. I obviously will be paying myself a salary, but it won’t be close to that as I want to grow the business. 
I have some mechanical ability and feel as if I will be able to fix some things myself. I know it’s an used truck things wear out and break. No way around that. 

18 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

Enough said,take the plunge.My only suggestion would be to try and get something a little newer.Unless you really know the history of the truck,you may be buying a pig with a whole lot of perfume spayed on.Good luck my friend.

Around here is seems like a lot of guys are running older Mack’s, but I don’t know why. I’m trying to find something newer but not having much luck, may have to keep looking at rethink about my plan and do this next year

18 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

The more I think about what you are planning on doing the more I’m gonna say don’t do it.You are talking about using a antique for every day use.Unless you are a mechanic or at the very least very mechanical you may be in for more than you bargained for.If you are using it for a site truck it won’t be as bad,but if you are going to be pounding down the highway all day you better be prepared to be under it quite often.It’s tough to crave out a living with a new truck let alone a 25 plus year old truck.Down here in Philadelphia the going rate for a triaxle is around $90.00 hr.Do the math.Driver going to cost $20-25 or more hour,insurance $7500 year,tires.I was going to buy a new Mack $190,000 plus put it in my daughter name for the minority business.Now mind you I have all the connections so the truck will work,I did the math and it doesn’t work.Sorry if I piss in your cheerio’s but you know all the facts.

Around here the rate is pretty close to that. 
I’m driving the truck, so I won’t have to pay a driver. 
Insurance is less than 5k a year. 
I have contacts at local companies and can get work. 
If you can’t buy a new truck, you have to start somewhere and an older one is what it has to be. If you can’t buy a new truck how do you get started then? 
I did the math and on paper seems like the numbers are pretty good.. but again I have no idea hence why I’m looking for help

16 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

I’ve been in the construction business all my life,it was a family thing.Just remember dump trucks go past the curb.Once they leave the blacktop school out.By that I mean it not a smooth ride anymore.All the twisting and bending start.We had 15 79 dm600 triaxles that were built like brick shit houses never had a problem but we spec them the way we wanted.Check the frames and cross members for any cracking and splitting.As long as the motor does have excess blow by just run it.You can always do a rebuild before you put it to work.Just my 2 cents worth.I would not look at anything other then a Mack.My son sell used trucks for the the local Mack dealer here in Philadelphia,Pa.Where are you at,will tell him to keep a lookout.

I’m over in ma. I mean I feel as if miles are somewhat of a dealbreaker, if I’m buying a 96 one has 700K with no history and one has 400K with no history, I’d go for the lower Mile one. But I do suppose it’s all a gamble and just a chance you take, I’m looking for one that’s relatively cheap, 25-35k probably with the lowest miles and best shape. For the first truck just to get my feet wet I don’t want to spend more than I have to, that way I can keep a emergency fund.

23 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

secondary throttle,, pull it out and twist to lock,, for whatever you need the engine to run up higher.... P.T.O. for example..  Jojo

Ahh, that makes sense, I’ve never seen it before so wasn’t sure what it was. I’m hoping to be able to look at this truck here soon and pick it up before asphalt season starts and get it working!

On 1/14/2021 at 9:24 PM, Joey Mack said:

bullet proof!....  Parts are still available..... I built one 6 months ago... Do you know how to inspect the engine inside and out? If you are in North Carolina, I will build it for you....  Jojo

What’s the purpose of the red throttle knob next to the steering wheel? May be a stupid question but I have no idea what it’s used for? Don’t know how to inspect the engine, something I’ll certainly need to look Into

I found a 94 down south that is rust free and has only 300k on it, not sure how verifiable that is. Anything I should know about the 94s?

7 hours ago, alex g said:

Unfortunately there are no guarantees to wether it will break down or not. 

I know that, if I could predict if it was going to break or not I think I could be a millionaire! But it’s just all about risk, 800k miles without being touched I’d say is pretty risky, but on the other end it is cheaper than the other ones I’m looking at and appears to be in decent shape for its age 

I have a friend who sent me an ad for a truck he found. It’s a 99 688s, has 800k on it, motor hasn’t been touched besides normal pms, it was running everyday up until end of asphalt season. The price seems like it’s a good deal but again miles concerns me. I need something that’ll make it through the season without breaking down every week. This ones about 5-6 hours away. What do you’ll think? If it’s cheap enough buy it and put money aside for when it breaks? Ideally would like to be able to get a new truck in a year or 2 and then have this as a spare