B61Hobby

On 3/25/2022 at 12:46 PM, 63BMack said:

If it's been sitting a long time probably the rack stuck in the pump 

On 3/25/2022 at 12:57 PM, Markie Man said:

I second the stuck plunger/rack if it's been sitting long, does the fuel shut off lever have any resistance or does it just pivot freely?

I don't know anyone in your area but there's more than enough learned individuals on here to walk you through it.

I will dig into the plunger stack this weekend to see what it looks like inside.  I will check the fuel cut-off aswell.  Thanks guys!

On 3/25/2022 at 12:12 PM, Freightrain said:

 

Welcome to the forums.  Surely we can assist you in getting it running.

Checklist:

Fuel in tank?

Fuel lines in good shape?

Transfer pump working?

Filters good?

Shut off cable/arm in correct position?

Does hand pump have resistance when pumping?

The overall system is simple once you understand the parts.  Just need to track down where it isn't getting fuel.

 

The tanks were empty and I was worried about trying to get it running before i knew if it had oil pressure.  It was sitting a good while, from what I was told, so not being a diesel guy, I figured having a diesel tech tare into it first would be the smartest thing to do. 

I definitely will be learning the ins and outs as I get to know the old girl though. 

The tanks had a few pin holes and thin metal so I am reworking them or looking for replacements.  The fuel lines looked good and I got new filters for the system.  Those were easy as their were already modern filters installed.  The oil filters are a different story.  Ugh, still working through that part finding / upgrade process.

I will have to get the fuel pump off to see if the plungers are stuck.  I watched a few videos on that process.

I will check the hand pump and fuel cut-off 

Hey there,

Just checking in for suggestions on a Diesel Mechanic in or around New Hampshire that know his or her way around the old B-Series.  I have a 1961 B61 with a turbo diesel.  It fires up when you spray a ether/WD40 mix in the air intake but it wont stay running.  It sounds really solid and healthy but just wont stay going.  I am new to the diesel game let alone the B-Series game so I have little knowledge or contacts.  I bought the old ruck to restore over time, I just love the look and it will make a great conversation piece on the farm.  The first step is to get it running consistently.  

Any contacts you can give would be great.  Thanks!!!

I am thinking about switching over to a dry air filter system on my B61.  I am still trying to figure out the exact engine specs on it but I know it is the in-line 6 turbo diesel.  What do you guys and gals think?  Keep the oil bath or convert to dry?

1 hour ago, topo said:

I have the oil filter like yours and it takes two Baldwin P194 filters  . The Baldwin P194 HD and Fram CH336PL are hydraulic filters I have used them in the past.

The smaller one with the hole down the center was press stamped "WIX 51235" so I have that one on order.  Are you saying you use the same filter in both housings?

5 hours ago, mrgumby said:

There might be a number some where on the housing did you try cleaning it up. Usually there a makers name and numbers stamped on it 

The filter with the hole in the center had a pressed stamp "WIX 51235".  They still make that one so it is on order and should be here in a few days.  The other one, the tall on, had a painted stamp on the top, I could not make it out but the guys at NAPA Auto Parts figured it out.  Apparently it is a good number but is no longer in production.  They found me one that "looks like it would work" but is is over $100 and weeks away.  I am looking for an alternative to the taller filter at this point.    

I am sure my green horn is going to be showing here but I own it.  I just got my B613T - title saw 1961 but I am guessing it is a late 50's manufacturer date.  It is a 6 cylinder turbo diesel.  

Question 1 - She has two oil filter housings?  One of the cartridges had a Wix number on it (51235) but the other did not have a number on it and the guys at NAPA are having difficulty finding a part for me.  The taller housing has a large line going in on the side and another large line coming out of the bottom center.  The smaller housing has two small lines, both in the bottom center.  Can someone break down this system for me and any clues on a part number for the taller filter?

Question 2 - The fuel filters are easy replacements but what is the history here?  Just looking to understand the system.

9 hours ago, Maddog13407 said:

factory pyrometer on the dash???

it looks it.  I am new to the Mack world but it looks original and factory, if it was actually an option.  

Thank you everyone.  I am stoked to be on this forum.

1 hour ago, j hancock said:

Both the 11R and 12R22.5 are DOT approved for mounting on an 8.25 X 22.5 tubeless rim to replace the 20" tube type multi-piece rim.

Do you think the depth of the new 8.25 rim will work on the rear axle?  Do you  think I will need a new spacer?  I am a total newbie with the spokes.  I guess I could just order the new rims and tires and see.  If the worse thing I run into is needing new spacers, I will be in good shape.    

Hey there everyone.  I recently picked up my first MACK.  It is a 1961 B61 6 wheeler.  I will snap some picks and post in the introduction forum soon.  My first purchase will be new rubber for the old girl.  It currently has 11.00 - 20's on split rings.  I am looking to get the split rings out from under the truck due to ease of finding rubber as a reasonable price.  It seems I can get a 11R22.5 way easier and cheaper than a 11.00 - 20.  I will also not have to deal with the garage preaching about how dangerous the split rings are.

As you all know, this forum is great and I think I have it almost all figured out.  I am understanding that the 11R22.5 is a direct replacement for the 11.00 - 20.  My question is this, am I looking for a 8.25x22.5 open center wheel?  I am looking at buying a 8.25x22.5 open center wheel and mounting a 12R22.5 tire on it.  Why the 12R?  Because it seems a bit easier to get than the 11R.

I think that covers it, thanks in advance for the help.