Truecountry

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Ok..  did you put new orings in the shift fork assembly

sir he redid trans not me and it would be tomorrow morning after 9 before we could talk ...no service till i get back to shop 

9 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Is the snapring in the center of the synchro installed or broken.  If it is left out, it will only shift once, and then you have to go back in to the rear box.

Bro he is in his 60s and is really into this hard core and thats his special gift transmissions he is beating his self up about timing and all 

if you dont mind pm me ill give you my number and maybe you 2 can talk ...im not a transmission guy ..

He showed me it installed tearing in and back together

Hey guys i have a coworker that has replaced the synchro clutch basket and gears in a t310m...Driver complaint was hard to get into gear .Co- worker has redid transmissions for years and now this one it will not move ...It goes into gear and you hear grinding when you release the clutch but no movement in all gears even rev ....he replaced hi lo soleniod and piston on back end of trans ..this is 2nd time he has tore it down and i even helped this time sit it on bench and add shop air to lines and shifted all gears while turning tailshaft and watching input shaft turn and even watched inside gears ...replaced air lines and has plenty of air from truck and shop ....anyone have anything we can try or check

ok guys i had to leave it alone for a few weeks had other more important equipment to work on but i did get a chance to test a few things but its still not right ...

i had my bosch computer updated with new software nothing like macks ...but i noticed a test for def pump so i ran it metering valve stayed high 97 percent ....def pressure zero ...i have a sister truck to this one so i went did same test on that and 130ish on pressure and metering valve was going lower as pressure built up ...so i got def pump and it did right pressures and metering ...did filter reset and system rest .. regen like it should but would not let me do scr regen but all codes were inactive 

driver runs truck all day stop to get fuel shuts truck off and starts it after fueling and engine light on    checked code and dosing system  data valid but below normal working range ....egr valve cleaned ..down stream nox changed out values were good but also had a inactive nox code fault in the nox monitoring system i got new one same thing again 

it regens in about 35 to 40 mins 899 to 940ish and will drive 7 hours before hiccup and engine light only

186000 miles on a gu813 mp8 and i have had mack come out to help me with this troubled dog ...we cleaned 7th injector and replaced air valve at def pump regen went ok took for ever to get above 840 to 900 degrees ..all codes left that were on ...next day same doggie isnt happy i call mack tech and he said open up dpf filter and with a piece of mig welding wire see how far you can stick it in and what you see ....well it went 11 1/2 inch in any hole i placed it in random but i noticed a reddish tint in exhaust side of filter this is the big filter bottom half ....so i turned it that side down and used compressed air to blow to a white rag and its all dark red power ....i called him back he said injector cups ...now not to say he is wrong but its s good running truck no problems till now but couldnt egr cooler do this also and how can i test this before i go any farther ? also top half of filter was stopped up wire wouldnt go 1 inch in so i sent that to be cleaned with lower half ...yes we use red antifreeze so it coolant getting in filter maybe 

my truck is a 2008 chu613 with mp8 ...what year engines will swap with out problems ?

22 hours ago, mrgumby said:

Also did both engines use the same harmonic balancer  or did the new engine come with it own.  I’ve seen some where you reuse your old balancer

nobody knows if they reused harmonic balancer but today i pulled trans and drained it oh my god at the metal ..pull shifter cover and input shaft its a snap ring with washers the housing is broken and snap ring was just spinning on shaft so i think bearing is also gone ...now im looking for a trans and engine lol my luck

6 hours ago, fjh said:

So here's something to think about ! WAS THE CLUTCH ADJUSTED properly on this second failure ? Lack of  free pedal can take out the  thrust bearing and cause a whole dogs breakfast of issues ! including what you have. I've  Seen it happen!

 

Just sayin!

Thats it im new to this shop old mech is gone ..all i have is broken parts lol ..

ok Guys bear with me ..i havent work at this shop but 2 years and this truck has engine sitting in floor for 6 years ...first engine had clutch replaced and old mech put in pilot bearing with snap ring on it ...ok i get why it broke that crank shaft ...now 2nd engine no snap ring on pilot bearing and it broke crank in 15000 miles this was a mack reman ..and boss didnt have a mech at the time to pull it before warranty ran out ....my question is can i have transmission problems now to break this crank ..im the clean up mech ..i get the shit everyone else has played with but not fixed at least its not torn apart and in buckets lol

Mack is up and running …………….THANKS GUYS  

ok re did valve adjustment ...loosen push rod spring adjuster rocker arm did the .010 on end of Yoke and spring under rocker on same yoke and checked with pressure on end on rocker for drag 

did the .045 under spring under rocker for push rod adjustment now I don't have 6inch pound screw driver so I snugged it down till closed and loosed a lil bit did .045 still under and .024 under end of rocker to yoke pulled .045 out and checked .024 again its a lil tight but snug ...this seem right the manual is hard to read tiny writing lol old eyes

if its not in snail of turbo could it make it into aftercooler ? 

Cat engine spit the broken piece into number 6 

This is a caterpillar 815 compactor I know not a mack or a truck but ..I found this one 5 years ago and took pics to prove it...

Complain of compactor was light tapping in engine but its so loud no muffler hard to hear tap..but I hear miss in engine

Cylinder number 4 on head its one piece head btw

10 hours ago, fjh said:

OR lodged in the turbo Snail!

9 hours ago, fjh said:

Yup out come will likely be the same either way!  Ah turbos are cheap!😁

ill take turbo apart and look but I was thinking after cooler ..ive looked every where ..intake manifold and exhaust manifold but I haven't taking turbo apart I will just to see

9 hours ago, fjh said:

Check your turbo!

I did looks Great no damage any where ….put other head and everything looks Great ...I cant figure out where that broken piece went too

Oh piston got hit a couple times but looks great and so is liner 

Tomorrow im pulling back head I think the broken piece hit 4 or 5 and results broke rocker shaft 

Thanks Guys 

zero compression on number one 

I just read this 

These ASET engines are really bad an having bad harnesses because of how they lie so close to that exhaust manifold. The shield can only hold back so much heat. I wouldn't be surprised if you remove the shield, use an air gun to blow all the junk that built up there, and lift the harness it will be sticking to the galley that the harness rests in. If so, expect the possibility of a bad harness

Any way to test that ? voltage ?

2 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

It’s really easy to drop the pan for a look and you’ll see any dirty secret. 

ok will do in the morning ...like I said im new to working on macks but I have seen some things with cats and cummins noone could explain

ive called their gurus this is person to talk to and did it and it stumped them hydraulic wise on equipment ….engine is air fuel compression ive seen intake valve break from one cylinder end up in another turned to side making a light tapping sound every tech has seen something none can explain ..yes sir I will drop oil and pan and see 

no smell of fuel in oil ..I thought maybe washed the cylinder 

Just now, Mack Technician said:

You getting black smoke?

no black smoke 

at all

3 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

Be careful when putting cam roller followers back in, they’re ceramic. They can crack if you drop them into the bore and they strike the lobe. 

I was but remember im 2nd person to work on this other guy thinks im there to take his job and im not ..im there to fix what he cant help out save money