Dakota

On 9/17/2023 at 8:41 PM, Joey Mack said:

If it is the newer plastic sender, check to see if it's wired backwards.  It's not the key switch.. other things would be jacked up..

When I got the truck they gave me a new float/sender.  It only has one wire feed to the wiring harness and one that grounds to the tank.  I'm still thinking there might be something in the switch as the gauge works when first turned on but quits if you start the engine.  Couldn't the switch not resend power to the fuel gauge after starting?  I was thinking all power went to the starter while starting and then returned to normal after starting----but I could be wrong on that too.

I got busy and haven't done this but I will this week.  I'm also wondering if it might be a problem in the ignition switch as it drops out after the engine starts and the switch is returned to the "on" position.

On 9/3/2023 at 9:05 PM, Joey Mack said:

if the sender is grounded to the tank, it may not be grounded to the truck..  because of the tank strap insulators.  just for kicks, hook a jumper cable to the fuel cap or cross over valve and to the frame or neg. on the battery and see if it clears up..  Just having a little fun with this one,,   Jojo

I'll try that. Thanks

I had problems with the gauge being non working most of the time and some other gauges dropping out intermittently while driving, so I bought a new instrument cluster and moved my gauges to it.  Now it seems the other gauges work but the fuel gauge reads correctly with the key on but the engine off and then when I start the engine, the gauge drops to zero, like it lost power or something.  I can shut the engine off and turn the key back on and it will read correctly again until I start the engine back up.

    Any ideas on what could be shutting off the power to the gauge circuit???

I'm trying to clean my evaporator and also I want to see what's up with my control that controls the air flow to the vents, defrost, etc. as I don't get much air flow out any of them.  I'm trying to remove the plastic panel on the right side of the console but for some reason I can't get it loose.  I've been told there is a bolt/screw under the hood below the windshield but I can't find anything there to remove.  Any ideas where all of the fasteners are for this?

My sending unit has two wires but one of them goes directly to the sender mounting plate--as a ground, I am guessing and only one wire goes on to the harness to the truck, which has a connector for three wires-but there is only one, from the sender, at that point.

Bought a used truck a while back and the fuel gauge didn't work so the dealer gave me a new sending unit.  The new sender only has one wire going to the connector and one grounded to the mounting plate of the sender.  The electrical connector from the truck has two or three wires to it and the sender has a connector that will fit it but, as said above, only has one wire from the sender to the connector.  I can't get the gauge to work so I'm wondering how the sender works, electrically.  If I ground that one wire directly, would that make the gauge in the cab register something?  That seems to be the only possibility.  Or did the dealer just give me the wrong sender unit?

TIA,

Steve

I got some ordered from Raney's as I couldn't find them from Dorman.  Thanks for the suggestions!

Thank you.  I'll check those out.  I only wanted to rebuild if they were going to cost a fortune through Mack.  At that price, I'd just buy them and be done with it.

I think I need some new door hinges on my CH613 but I haven't been able to find any online.  Does anyone know of any place that might have them listed or do I have to go to the Mack dealer and see if they can get them?  Or is it possible to rebuild them?

TIA,

Steve

On 12/17/2019 at 5:44 PM, JoeH said:

Do these have an alignment pin in the block that should be checked/replaced? At the same time?

I don't know but I may just take this to a local truck repair place that I know of as I'm sure they can take care of it for me and will know everything that needs to be done.

Thank you Wilbur!

Are there any special things I need to know before I do it?  Is it just unbolt and replace?

Thanks

  My 2003 CH613 has started throwing  intermittent engine codes of 8-3 and 8-6 which are described (if I found the correct list of codes) as Electronic Unit Pump #3 and #6.  Are these something that I can change out myself?  Are any special tools required to do it.  Anything I need to watch out for other than #6 is hidden well enough behind the exhaust pipe that I may need to move the pipe some to get to it.  Anything I should check first to make sure it's really these that are bad?  Nothing looks really dirty and no loose wires that I found.

TIA,

Steve