Dave Pannabecker

Evening Folks - Pulling my hair out over a cylinder misfire,looking for help. Job started out needing head gaskets (coolant leak at the front edge of the rear head) and had intermittent codes for EUP’s cylinder #3 & #5 for FMI/8. I did the head gaskets and also replaced the EUP’s & 3 and 5. Got it back together and had a miss on #4, can crack the high pressure line and it has no fuel pulse whatsoever nor does the engine tone change at all (all other holes firing). At that point I assumed despite how clean I was disassembling and reassembling it I must of got a chunk of crud in the EUP in the process of the head gaskets and changed the EUP (and pulled the tappet and visually checked the EUP cam lobe - both good). New EUP - still has the miss - nothing changed. At that point I pulled the V/C and rechecked valve lash - it’s OK - right where I left it. I then rechecked the harness for continuity, Ohmed out perfect but also load tested it with a headlight and actually found an issue with #3 cylinder (but # 4 tested good). Changed the injector harness - same problem #4’s dead - nothing changed. At that point I thought maybe when I installed the high pressure fuel line in the head I may have pushed crud/rust into the nozzle blocking it and causing premature failure of the new EUP so I pulled the nozzle, disassembled it and blew it out and found nothing more than 2 of the 8 (think that’s how many holes the tip has) were blocked. Been fixing trucks for 35 years and this has me kinda stumped. Any helps appreciated. P.S. All EUP’s are Bosch remans, all other parts are dealer sourced. Edit : 2 items I forgot: when it’s running with #4 misfiring it has no active codes. I also checked for an electrical pulse @#4 EUP with an LED light and the ECM is firing the EUP.

Yeah it’s one of those deals where you could spend $ on a turbo and not repair it or maybe it would. Talked to a guy who had in framed quite a few E-techs, he said he has seen a few run with no performance issues while having excess blow by, with all piston rings broke except the top ring which caused it to burn oil but maintain enough compression to maintain decent performance. This thing is really blowing oil out, to the point on a 150 mile trip it’s dripping off the front rear.

What's the specs to build it? Connected to the draft tube ? Any thoughts on the turbo ? Do they all leak boost down the drain tube when tested ? - or should they not leak ?

703K unsure of the hours. Not 100% sure it's the original engine either, one of the company's long term drivers thought there was a reman engine installed in it at some point but he wasn't positive. Agree on the compression test, that would tell the condition of the internals. As for the oil leak, didn't want any issues with DOT - its to the point it has the front rear covered - won't rust

I have a 01 E-tech that started oiling the right side of the chassis and block with the tell-tale draft tube slobber. Pulled the insert out of the pot on the front right corner of the engine and cleaned it out in solvent and reinstalled it - didn't seem like anything unusual (as far as crud level) but also didn't help the problem. In the last 13K miles it went through 2 gallons of oil. As far as performance it runs great, no power loss, no abnormal smoke, no cylinder miss - even when cold. I've been sampling the oil for the last 3 oil changes (20K interval) and nothing comes back on the samples that even comes close to suggesting it has anything going on - no excessive wear metals, no high viscosity or oxidized oil - (all come back #1 on Horizon Labs report - 1 being best - 4 being worst). Today I pressure tested the turbo thinking maybe it was boost pressure escaping down the drain tube causing the problem - I did have pressure escaping down the drain pipe but after the fact was advised by a local turbo shop that all turbos will leak down the drain tube when tested, I've been a mechanic for 30 + years but don't claim to be a tur bo expert so I'm not 100% sure this is true. Last thing I did was put it back together and heat checked the exhaust manifold - all were within 15 degrees. At this point I'm at a loss as in my experience anything that is on the verge of needing an overhaul always shows high oxidation and high viscosity and usually runs poorly or misses, not this thing. Anybody have any similar experiences with any other E-techs doing the same thing ? Sorry for the long read, just trying to put all the info in up front. Thanks in advance