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Everything posted by Scorer128

  1. Can anyone tell me the part number for the door glass on a 1957 b model? Or is any out there for sale?? Please
  2. It sounds like the air stater stays. I really need to stop a few air leaks !!
  3. That is a D3B in the pic with the u model. And she is definitely handy! Thank you all for the input. I'm still not sold on the air start but I love your ideas.
  4. a pic of the umodel i have more in my phone ill upload seperately
  5. i will try again to post the umodel the b model is a 237hp with a "quad box" has an air starter that I want to change to electric we couldnt get her to start by pushing fuel filter was a solid no filtering involved it may havelast been changed in 1957 local NAPA had one on the shelf for 16$ one tiny push and she was purring like a kitten love this old steel!
  6. All right gentlemen! I finally finished my daddy’s 1980 you model dump truck and I couldn’t of done it without your knowledge and expertise. Thank you so much! But y’all made it so easy that I now have a new project......a 1957 B 61 6-wheel dump truck. I think I’ll Work my way through the Mack alphabet 😊maybe a Rmodel next
  7. Thank you all. I managed to get the desired blue bug deflector at my local Mack repair shop. love those guys at Berco, NJ
  8. Thank you for the reply. Sorry for the delay. Forty is more than reasonable, but please give me a few days to see if i can locate a blue. I will get back to you assp
  9. Alex thank you at the rate I’m going I think I may have to go with something other than blue. How much are you asking?
  10. Hello gentleman...I am in a desperate search for a BLUE bug deflector TO fit a 1980 U model. I’m on a pretty tight budge,t So please ,your best deal. The one that was on the U model I gave to a friend of a friend paint and they and the bug shield disappeared.
  11. Thank you sir. Thats a huge help. I’ll be back at it tonight 😃
  12. While in the process of replacing the wiring harness, I removed Three air brake valves from the dash. I thought I marked them well, air line placement and so forth; however, ( and this is a tip for others) the paper and ink I used was not water-resistant and i now cant tell well most of the lines go. I have it figured out for the most part as the trailer brake valve and pressure switch is marked differently, but currently there is an open hole that air streams through. So it's obvious I'm missing something. MOst of the info I've found only refers to two valves in the dash. Any help, sche
  13. whew!! Thank you , you were absolutely right and I was overthinking it!! Batteries just needed a boost!!
  14. thank you sir i have check cleaned and tightened ground wires. I have put the charger on. ( fingers crossed, thats it!) But to clarify, if I omitted the Kyser wiring and possibly not removed a wire, would that affect the crank?
  15. HELLO GENTLEMEN! It looks like I've really done it now. The 1980 U model I've been working on was having intermittent electrical problems and I found that chaffed wires were causing serious issues. For two weeks I attempted to piece fix the harness and finally tore the whole thing out and replaced the wires per the schematic. minus the Kyser shutdown wiring. Now, the engine barely cranks over . Is there something in the scensors that would be telling the engine not to turn? I've read about a jump wire but dont' have enough information to assertain the proper location. Any help or insight
  16. hello fellas! Still working on my Dad's 1980 U model. I have everything wired and aired up since the last issue, thanks to every ones's advise and information. This is my current issue, some "one" has messed with the fuel pump, "turned it up". I'm certain this was an unnecessary adjustment as the truck runs worse and throws/blows black soot like she's on fire. What is the proper procedure for adjusting the fuel injection pump? I want to turn it down. The engine is a 237, all stock.
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