mhotrodscooter

14 hours ago, JoeH said:

I'd ditch that supplier and get a 275g (or bigger depending on how remote you are) tank with a pneumatic pump & nozzle. With 20 trucks in your fleet you are going through enough oil to warrant buying oil in bulk. 

If you have trucks on different oils then you could get a tank for each grade of oil.

We have 3 trucks and use a "half" tank for 15w40 and another half tank for hydraulic.  REIT lubricants fills a small jar for us every time we get oil from them. That way if there's a problem with the oil then we have a sample to send out for testing, to rule out if it's an oil problem or a truck problem.

We run a extended oil change intervals, going 1200hrs on our new equipment and 900 on our older macks, so a drum might last 6-10 months or a week depending on how the full services pop up. oil samples every 225hrs services every 300hr

But i understand bulk would be better. sample it once and not having to sample each drum 

16 hours ago, JoeH said:

That's a PitA. Are you buying this oil in 55g barrels or is a company coming and pumping it into your tanks from a lube truck?

Drum oil 55/gal from supplier 

Im a shopforman at a small concrete pump company with like 20 trucks. well long story short our bulk oil 15w 40 in the drum have been bad on two separate occasions.

me running dye check for fuel leaks just too find out its a bad drum

CEL on with a P026C00 lower the expected. truck has been to mack for tuning, counts went down from 45 to 10, but code still pops up. wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction. 

what sensor reads fuel quantity? is it worth changing that sensor before changing injectors? if so where is sensor located?

14 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

Rotating Cam till your on the low circle of the fuel lobe, pulling the EUP down evenly with two drivers simultaneously....or, as I usually do, get it on low circle and place a large seal bar against the top of EUP near pump body's center and compress it into the bore then run a bolt down to hold it in place. Clean the taper cut of the bores upper rim, making sure rust is removed and everything is lubed with clean motor oil. Mack wants new bolts every go-round.

yes sir.. would you think mack just had a bad batch of eup remans in that year

19 minutes ago, fjh said:

Did you test with the die after you replaced the o rings? Your positive the fuel ain’t coming from the transfer pump!?

yes but had dye from the previous test, didnt take the extra steps to try and old dye washed away. it wasnt coming from the pump when i had the pan off. thats not saying its not coming from it now though.  its got almost 2000hrs on a set of new eup pumps

17 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

You guys sound like you have these engines figured out. That being said, are you following protocol when installing these EUP's? Unless your a huge fleet(or dealership) you shouldn't be seeing this many chronic, consecutive, fuel-to-oil cross contamination issues?    

we have mack trucks impact, not sure what protocol is,but my boss doesnt want to waste money on parts. yet he'll waste money on oil and filters

15 minutes ago, fjh said:

So I am miss understanding is the new fuel sample clear or not?

"not" went from 5.3 to 8.3 in 225 hours with new oil.

On 9/26/2019 at 12:24 PM, Mack Technician said:

You have a neighbor that hates your guts?

In the famous words of Fred......Just sayin!

You’ve covered your bases pretty well and two machines with fuel, it would be a dirt trick to pull. 

Is your transfer pump original?

Did you have someone pumping your hand primer like a mad man while you watched those gallery plugs?

Remember the condition of RED’s transfer on his AI-370. It was still mostly running and putting a load of filings into his secondary fuel filter. A scenario like that, running failure, could be an issue? Not sure if he was seeing fuel in oil via pump driveshaft seal though....

 

Actually pulled the fuel filter and put dye, then started the truck let it run for a minute. took off the feed line and put a regulator and set air pressure @80psi and plugged return line. let it sit over night found that all 6 where leaking changed seals did a retest, but was really hard to tell where the dye was coming from. could have been left over from the first test. just got another sample back today al-400 with fuel dilution. the fuel plug had actual back out on it ,and was leaking fuel outside the cover  

52 minutes ago, fjh said:

Your in the zone with what you you have! We have had this problem and it was injector! Having said that Mack E service had us put die in the fuel filter and run the engine for a minute or so the die showed up right away at the offending injector under the black light ! In your case in an MR its going to be tough cause half the truck has to come apart to get the valve cover off How ever its either this or replace all six!

Just Sayin!

thanks for the input. ive aready learned alot from this site in a short time, 20years of automotive switching over to big rig stuff is tough, not enough info out there like on gas burners

ive got a mp7 that i did a leak test on all 6 injectors leaking around stems, got 6 in a box ready to be installed

5 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

50-85PSI full rev and no load.

No need to reinvent this wheel....Click on link, may be helpful.

 

i read that link yesterday. oil pan was off 300 hours ago. changed delta seal, only 500hrs or so on eup pumps, nozzle o'rings change 300hrs ago, fuel dilution went from 5.3 to 8.5 on this sample. new oil and filters installed 300hrs ago. ive checked the fuel bore plugs when the pan was off. no leaks from that area then. think the eup pumps have done took a dump? they was mack remains funny thing we have a e7 having the same issue with around 1000hrs on its eup pumps 

On 9/23/2019 at 9:58 AM, fjh said:

Perfect Timing for the Volvo Guys!😡 Volvo Wins!  You Loose Thats how  the game is played! And that's how they make  money!

yeah you right

can anyone tell me what idle fuel pressure is supposed be? this one 60psi @idle and 82psi wot. fighting a fuel dilution problem.

Replacing engine harness fixed all my issue that i was having with truck. being a month out of warranty sucked. 

What type of fan clutch do you have? most times you can just unplug and it will engage the fan.

Little history on truck, new engine wiring harness that's junk, 3 ECMs swapped out. So i figured out most of the other issue by myself. Just having problems trying to diagnosing these last 2 codes before replacing the engine harness again. New pressure differential sensor, new intake sensor. EGR valve is getting voltage, sensor lines for EGR sensor are clean. BTW, I'm new here. so any help would be greatly appreciate!!