sask3500

I'll do some looking today. Normally I make tooling but the stainless cups look like they take alot of force to swedge. I am not set up to make the bit end, it's curved and hardened. Also not surprised with the reputation of amazon specials.

Is there a reason why the cups need to be done on every injector change? Is it similar to the rule of always changing external fuel lines on a Bosch common rail fuel system?

Thanks, hopefully that's a workable cross reference for a Mack dealer.

2016 mp8, needs new injectors. What's the success rate changing injectors only on a stainless cup motor? I have a guess, just thought I'd ask anyway. Tools in the aftermarket seem all unavailable, out of stock. On the off chance the dealer has tools does anyone have the part numbers for the puller, swedging tool and sealants? Local dealer is useless unless you call with numbers. Otherwise they take days to call back and half the time it's wrong.

And thanks for your input folks. I appreciate it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update in case anyone needs or wants the info. Ended up pulling the front head to unstick number 2 exhaust valves, replaced 2 bent and one broken pushrod. Oil filters had aug 2011 marked on them, air filter housing packed with chaff and dust. Not just filter, entire housing. Packed. Fuel filters rusted on, took a 3’ chain wrench to pull them off. Re assembled, set valves, new oil and all filters, new fuel return line from head, primed and started nice. Still a bit of a miss but likely an injector. Much better than before. The 3 cylinders I saw were badly glazed, the top end was pretty gooey, a nice sludge in the pan too. I cleaned what I could get to. I’m worried about the turbo long term. Carbon filled a lot of the hot side turbine clearance, it really should have been torn down and rebuilt too. Neat little motor though, nice to work on, tidy valve train, stout and well thought out bottom end, I like the main bearing cap design-and you can’t really go wrong with an inline Bosch pump. I don’t think I’d turn a good one down if I had to go truckin’. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it’s better than I expected. Cam seems fine, can’t get at the followers. Any tricks on loosening a sticky valve? With the hours on it we’ll likely put 2 new push rods in and see how it goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5 ports were wet. Number 2 exhaust not stroking, pushrod dropped out of sight and intake rod is bent. I’m going to pull the pan and the back valve cover and have a peek up there I guess. Anyone know a good Mack wrecker and engine compatibility across years and models? Any hp is fine. Mechanical motors are fine too. Closer to a drop in swap the better. Thanks for the help so far folks. Pics for your pleasure: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Heavy grey/white starting up, light white idling. Heavy again accelerating. I’ll check the valve train, I’ve decided to get all the injectors pop and spray tested anyhow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m working on a 1996 E7 427, no flash codes. Distinct miss at idle, heavy smoke on startup, gets better once leveled out and running. Has tarry schmoo coming out rear half of manifold, and all other exhaust joints after that. I’m looking for advice on how to nail down which injectors to change. I’m soaking stuff in wd40 then plan on pulling the manifold off to see what I can see. No real consistent results from cracking fuel lines at the pump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk