bobgil

The old dog has been Thur it it was in the building when the ice and snow caused the roof to cave in.  Didn't get much damage the first time but as we got a good part of the roof back it fell in again and damaged the top over the passenger door. The mirrors and air breathers had been removed and have no been replaced.  

The ignition key was misplaced for about ten years,  but it showed back up about Christmas.  Two fresh Batteries and pumps on the primer Pump and it started before I changed it over ten seconds.  Started better than the CX I drive everyday. 

Was going to post video but not sure how

Bob 

I bought a 1965 C Model with wedge brakes on it.  They worked good going down the road but set the parking brake and it rolled freely.  I started trouble shooting them and pricing parts, it was way cheaper to change it over to S cams I found used backing plates etc and it was even cheaper at $100 for all the parts that weren't normal wear items them new parts all of them for less than one had of the wedge Brake prices.

The new wedge brakes after about 2000 are not the same and nothing would interchange for me

Do those pumps normally trash the injector when they go bad 

I have a 2001 CX vision cx613 with the 427 in it.  It developed a miss but didn't show any codes.  I was on the road from Kansas to Atlanta GA so I stopped in little Rock Mack to have it looked at.  They said that #3 unipump was bad and replaced it.  The mechanic saidh said that there may be other unipump s that were week. 

I drove the truck for about 200 miles and it ran better but then started the same thing again.  Does anyone know how I would trouble shoot to see which other unipump may be going bad, or if it is possible that the one that was replaced may have let some trash from it get to the injector tip.

I am loaded but with only 10,000 lbs on a stepdeck grossing about 40,000 and it is still running well enough that it is not bad all the time.  But I need to get it corrected and get it running right again 

Bob

I don't think the kw sleeper would work that well as the kw cab is not as wide as the Mack cab.

I don't care for them any too closely related to peterbilt

Superdog if you could check what you might find it would be nice to know where I can get them.

I would like to find ones that are already white but I might not be able to be too chosie

I have looked in my area and everything arou d here has more damage than I want to deal witb.

Not going to start the work rite now but hope to get started stretching the frame in june 15

I am considering stretching the frame on my truck and enlarging the sleeper. Years ago I knew where there were a lot of sleepers as everyone was removing them to mack day cabs. Now the same people tell me that they are not having request for that any more. And due 5 business being slow they had been scraping the sleepers they had just to keep their employees working.

I don't really want to go with a big square box and would like to keep the looks that the truck already has. So I am looking for two sleepers that I can put together to make a 96 in or 102 in sleeper. Once I get it out together I can take it to the custom sleeper shop to be completed and then installed when this one is removed.

If anybody knows where a couple of mid rise sleepers can be found it would be nice to know. I would like to find at least one with doors on the top along with the standard side box doors.

Thanks for all the in put.

Last time I was home I replaced the fitting on the return line and the hose end and it seamed to stop the fuel leak.

But after 2000 miles is ca see where there is an oil leak as was stated coming from one of the exhaust studs. Guess that will get addressed next time home.

Thanks again for the post here

Thanks I was thinking that I was having a problem with losing prime some times

We had one of those EUPs leaking. Made a mess like that. Series of O-rings where it goes into the block.

Is replacing these o ring a big deal?

Are there any parts that will need timed or relined up if I pull the injector off to replace the o rings.

Well with closer examanation it looks like it might be Sray of fuel coming from the injector And blowing up around the manaflod. I cleaned it good and am going to drive it a little more and see where the fuel is coming from.

It is fuel not oil.

Bob

Help I bought this 2001 cx613 E7 427 last August. I noticed a small what I though was an oil leak making the top of the air compressor wet over time. I can wash it and it takes about 3000 miles and it has the compressor wet again.

I have run over 50000 miles it runs and pulls good and is doing over 6.75 mpg but it pulls with the 2012 Cummins 485 that the other drivers are running with the same basic gearing.

I decided I would check out the leak a little closer and see if I could tighten a line or something to stop it when I found the fuel was leaking from between the head at the number 4 Cylinder and running down the side of the block and onto the air compressor.

A body got any idea what I might be up against and what it might take to fix it? Should I keep running it or park it until I can get it into a shop.

Bob

Help I bought this 2001 cx613 E7 427 last August. I noticed a small what I though was an oil leak making the top of the air compressor wet over time. I can wash it and it takes about 3000 miles and it has the compressor wet again.

I have run over 50000 miles it runs and pulls good and is doing over 6.75 mpg but it pulls with the 2012 Cummins 485 that the other drivers are running with the same basic gearing.

I decided I would check out the leak a little closer and see if I could tighten a line or something to stop it when I found the fuel was leaking from between the head at the number 4 Cylinder and running down the side of the block and onto the air compressor.

A body got any idea what I might be up against and what it might take to fix it? Should I keep running it or park it until I can get it into a shop.

Bob

it will read every thing off of your ECM that the truck is equipeted the read. like the oil pressure, water temp, rps etc you can check that your gauges are reading the same thing.

then it can display the boost if you have it in the ECM. mine does not have the boost monitor for the ecm to read.

I have the striped down dash only a few gauges water temp oil pressure, ect

I amusing the scan gauge to monitor the fuel milage it showes an average since you last started the engine and the instant for a 10 sec average. it can be set to show the in take air temp, rpms, horse power being use at the instant, fuel in mpg of kg or hour, and has a setting that you can load the fuel cost and it will show what it is costing you to drive at the speed and feul consuption you are that instatn. along with the persectge of aceleration you are using.

it might do more but I don't know every thing about it.

I don't have the computer that some of the macks have in them so it helps me know more about what the truck is doing

along with the fuel gauges on lets truck I can see what the truck is doing all the time. I am averaging 6.9 mpg for every mige driven since I got he truck. When i am pulling 90,000 or heavey and over size two thirds of the time i think that is pretty good

Well I got one of the scan gauge s and it works with the 2001 cx613 with out any problems

If any one is I wants to know more contact me e mail or phone is best

Thanks to all

I finally found the problem

The breaker under the hood for the class lights was bad. Not having a meter to check them individually I moved them around to check them and I could not find the bad breaker. The relay that went to that breaker was bad also so when I moved the breakers around it did not fix the problem. I have bought and placed more breakers, fuses and relays than anybody else that the Mack salesman could remember.

Thanks to all

I finally found the problem

The breaker under the hood for the class lights was bad. Not having a meter to check them individually I moved them around to check them and I could not find the bad breaker. The relay that went to that breaker was bad also so when I moved the breakers around it did not fix the problem. I have bought and placed more breakers, fuses and relays than anybody else that the Mack salesman could remember.

Thanks Mack man I will have to get back to you when I have more than my phone and a old iPad to work with

I gave up on spending more money for now. I pulled the wiring harness out. From behind the kick panel and spliced the clearance and parking light together, and put a jumper on the plug for the trailer cord and I am going to Atlanta tonight or in the morning early. I will deal with the problem later when I have more time. I have a trailer in Griffin Ga to get back to Texas before Monday and the truck is going in for a new clutch, brake adjusters and 18 sp trany Monday.

Hen when I get it back I will see what I can do with the lights

I was able to get a CX wiring diagram from one of the parts men at the local Mack dealer. If anybody wants a copy send me a email and I will forward it.

Bob

I found where Mack has the wiring diagrams hat you can order on line, or you might be able to subscribe to something in there emedia section to view them on line but I am not sure.

At macktrucks.com in the emedia section but it might be for dealers and or shops at a price I saw a prie of somthing at 1500.00 a year and stopped looking

Look on the drivers side kick panel right beside the clutch .pull back the black carpet that is were the roof harness and the dash harness plug in to each other. They like to corrode back there. I fixed many of ch and cx trucks when I worked for a Mack dealer. They sit right against the side cowel panel and in the winter the cab is warm and that cowl is cold they sweat and corrode . Try that and see if that helps .

I looked at these and pulled the ones for the cab lights apart and back together again still nothing.

Update I have changed the daylight running breaker, the turn signal switch, the switch in the dash along with. All the breakers. In the fuse panel. And checked the connections by the drivers door.

I still do not have class lights. When I pull the back of the clearance light switch I do not find and power in any of the wires. I am not sure if this is normal. But I tried to put power to the plug that is hot on the other switch that worked when I tried it on the work lights. I still did not have any classes lights. I think everything goes Thur a relay but which one

Did you find the problem I have about the same thing going on

Well I tried that too now. Still no luck

There has to be a relay or breaker somewhere that is attached to this switch

As many here know I purchase a 2001 CX613 this past summer and I put it to work in September. Last week I was coming home after droping off a trailer and the clearance light on the top of the cab went out. not the tree in the middle but the one on the out side along with some of the trailer lights too. All the lights that are operated by the second light switch on the dash or the clearance flash on the end of the turn siginal switch.

I have checked all of the breakers the switch in the dash, replaced the daytime running relay (98.00) in the braker boxand the trun signal switch (125.00) and still have not made any differeance the lights do not work still. I have been to the local Mack dealer several times and they can't seam to be able to tell me where I can get a wiring digram for this circit