MackDaddy85

22 hours ago, bts-4120 said:

have you priced a reman motor from Mack  they used to have a good warranty package,   and it you would get a  good cam that way.   if you could chunk the egr system on that motor that would help reliability although  that vgt turbo causes about as many issues as the egr and there no way around it

Reman Head $1050 from Mack 100,000 Mile Warranty and 2 years I believe. Rebuild Kit 2 year warranty as well.

On 11/25/2018 at 10:15 PM, fjh said:

Bro one of my main concerns here is the cam an over speed can take the the cam followers out bend valves and push tubes All of a sudden your looking at another big bag of money Cams don't come cheap PAI or not! And by the way PAI kits are  exellent  and better than the Mack stuff in the warranty  Department  how ever that said don't jump head first into this with out looking into the whole thing  cam included make sure you got something to work with.

1

thank you I would def look into this

Moving Forward if and when i repair this engine. I keep reading that the E7 460 ASET agr is a nightmare. Is there and preventative maintenance I can do to not fall in the pitfulls of such a bad engine

1 minute ago, Maxidyne said:

The difference is the new truck is under warranty so the manufacturer will pay for repairs (unless you 'fess up to the ether ODing). When you're running old trucks, you need to include in your business plan how you're going to handle multiple catastrophes...

Makes sense. Thank you for your advice Im glad i came to the right place. If i have to be a company driver for some time I will. My ultimate goal is to get back on the road as an O/O>

2 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

If you feel comfortable with doing an inframe with heads than go for it, assuming no other issues before.

 

https://www.pai-diesel.com/uploads/soft/PAI-DIESEL WARRANTY 2016.pdf

thank you. I will make certain that the crank is in good condition before I purchase anything. If it is good I will move foward with the rebuild.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inframe-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-for-Mack-E7-ASET-w-EGR-Valve-PAI-Brand-ERK8049017/253251232637?epid=656851575&hash=item3af6f3237d:g:4XYAAMXQL99Sc-3W:rk:2:pf:0

1 hour ago, Maxidyne said:

If money is tight, what are you going to do if they find the crank or turbo needs replacing too? What if the transmission goes a week after you get the engine rebuilt?

I get what you're saying but i can go and get a brand new truck and the engine can go out on me a week later. The chances we take in life I guess. If those things happen then I will just go drive for a company save up for another truck

5 hours ago, 880joe said:

I have used 2 PAI overhaul kits and quite a bit of other stuff from them and never had any problems. Also I thought I heard PAI would cover parts and labor on warranty where Mack will only cover parts

thank you I may lean for the cheaper PAI kit because money is tight right now. Price difference is about $1000 right now

5 minutes ago, Maxidyne said:

I agree with 41 Chevy, make a good honest assessment of the condition of the truck. A 14 year old truck like yours will sell for about the cost of a rebuild, so unless the truck is in excellent condition it might be best to part it out.

I would sell but I dont think I will get much with its current issues. If it helps I have 438,000 Miles on it now. Bought it for $6k with 427k on it. Put about $5k in it and started driving it.

3 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

PAI makes quality parts but you and your tech should get what they feel able to work the best with.

He doens't have a problem with PAI he just warned me that if anything goes wrong because of the parts it will cost me more and he PREFERS me to get the parts from MACK. He used to work at a Mack dealer but since opened his own shop so I understand his bias to go with MACK

2 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

Before you pour any money into it. Take a good look at the overall unit with someone who knows Macks and get a good idea what the other potential issues, if any may be down the road with it.

Everybody on here has made  some type of rookie mistake, learn from it and move on.  Don't be afraid to ask when unsure.

thank you. I did see an aftermarket PAI Inframe Kit for $2885 from a reputable seller on Ebay but my mechanic recommends I get the Kit straight from Mack for $3750

15 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

If you don't know the dangers of ether, you shouldn't own a big truck.

Or even a VW diesel.

Now I do know the dangers. I need answers on how to move forward not a lesson on what I should or shouldn't own.

12 hours ago, fjh said:

So Now that I have calmed down and thinking a tad clearer ! I apologize A bit for the out burst ! I hadn't taken into account your Greenness (for lack of a better word) to the  trucking industry !

BUT ! If you had posted the whole story to start with Including the RPM Part ! It would have saved a bit of time and Typing and  useless Ideas  on our part! The Heads and  bad or bent valves make sence somewhat now ! Now you have a huge can of worms ,head issues as well, as a possible cam failure now or for the future ! Not to be mean here But The sell the truck idea is a real good idea ! Or A good used engine may work for ya! 2004 was the most troublesome of years for this model of truck So throwing a big bag of money at it is NOT a good idea!

 

Just sayin

no problem. My first 5 words of this entire thread stated my "Greeness" to trucking. My apologies for the misinformation. This mess happened less than 24 hours of making the thread so I was in a frantic state because my only source of income went up in smoke. An honest guy trying to make an honest living to feed 3 kids and wife im sure you can understand my state of mind. Trust me I beat myself enough for the simple blunder of running out of fuel. No time to cry over spilled milk I intend to get back on the road and continue. I have 2 options now.

Rebuild or Purchase a good used engine.

Rebuild Option will consist of 2 new Heads $2100 and Inframe Rebuild Kit $3750 Both from Mack Dealer. $6k in parts and $4500 Labour. $10,500 Total

Used Engine Option I have not found anything for less than $9k from reputable sources Labor for new engine is $2500-$3500. $11500-12500 Total

I'm in no position to finance a truck and I will most likely need $8k-$10k Down and an aprox $1200/month Note.

Before my idiotic blunder I was able to gross $23k in 8weeks home every night. So the money was decent here in the north east. I just want to get back to work and continue in this business I'm still young (33) and with all due respect Walmart aint really for me. I have a used car i can sell and get $3500 for im really leaning towards fixing my truck and moving forward.

If 2004 was such a bad year what year Mack do you recommend I try to get if fixing isnt a good idea?

14 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

If you don't know the dangers of ether, you shouldn't own a big truck.

Or even a VW diesel.

Now I know....costly lesson but lesson learned nonetheless

On 11/22/2018 at 9:59 AM, Dirtymilkman said:

Sell the truck and work for Walmart. You'll be money ahead. 

Thanks for the advice but I'm not built to quit...wasn't raised that way. Made a costly rookie mistake but I own up to my mistakes and will tackle them head on. Thanks Bud

On 11/20/2018 at 10:11 PM, 1965 said:

Sure hate to see you spend all that money & it only be a boost leak of some sort

Besides the power issue I have this thick black smoke whenever I Press the gas. No compression in 2 cylinders. I really think I did some internal damage from spraying too much ether into the air filter. At one point when I was cranking the engine initially with the ether the RPM guage Red lined all the way until it couldn't go anymore. I def messed up a piston or something. Engine has been misfiring since my ether mess

14 hours ago, 880joe said:

I would check with a local machine shop on rebuilding your heads my local machine shop done mine for half of what mack wanted. Also a PAI inflame kit would save you some money

Found A PAI inframe kit on Ebay for $2885. Mack Dealer by me charges $3750 for Inframe Kit and $1050 for Heads. Debating on if i should get the ebay Inframe or mack. I dont think the Ebay one comes with head gaskets

Should I just get 2 Heads from Mack Dealer for $1250 a piece and get an In Frame Kit Dealer told me best bet is to get the Muzzleloader?? Just want to get my truck back on the road ASAP but the right way.

2 hours ago, fjh said:

In my opinion you have blown off some injector tips with some shit in the tank water or something from off the bottom of the tank IF it sounds like it is missing  ! No compression produces blu  smoke usually! Black smoke means not enough air  or to much fuel look for a blown turbo hose  / bad turbo or something!Before you let these guys rip into anything on the engine! Check some stuff First !!!!

ok will do

5 hours ago, alex g said:

How did they come to conclusion you have no compression in those cylinders? You will have a very bad miss if you are down 2 cylinders

correct engine is still misfiring. there was a leak in exhaust manifold so i replaced the gaskets but black smoke is still coming out and I have low power.

8 minutes ago, alex g said:

Personally I don't think you caused damage by using either although it's not recommended but it's not like your the first one to ever use it. It sounds like to me you have a turbo pressure leak wether it be turbo issues or a leak somewhere in the system. 04 Mack's are very troublesome and famous for turbo issues. 

There was a leak in the exhaust manifold so we changed the gasket but i still have that black smoke coming from the exhaust and I forgot to mention I have no compression in Cylinders 1 and 4

I def learned from this never to let my tank go below 1/4 of maybe even half. Rookie mistake oh and also Ether and diesel engines are no good esp if you dont 100% know what you're doing.

Hello all! I'm new to trucking just purchased an 04 Mack Vision with 427k on it for $6K. Long story short truck was sitting for a couple years but was well maintained. I put like $5k into it and it ran great. Leased on to a company and drove the truck for 2 months with no issues. Truck has 437k on it now and i'm almost sure I ruined the motor (E7 460).

Picked up a load in upstate New York and on my way back I ran out of fuel (rookie mistake). I basically thought i had more fuel than I did, fuel gauge had a bad wire so i was resetting trip meter every fill up. Anyways ran out of fuel walked 2 miles down the highway got 5 gallons. Good samaritan gave me a ride back. Put the 5 gallons in and here is where i think the damage was done.

After we put the fuel in I had the guy helping me shoot starter fluid in the air intake while i cranked it. After a couple of tries we got it to start and i thought all was well. Drove 50 miles and i begin to feel the truck losing power on top of that i see thick black smoke coming from the exhaust. I pulled over again bled all the lines of any air even changed the fuel filter with a new one but still no power and all this black smoke.

I make it to my mechanic after 6 hours of driving and he tells me I may have burned the valve and need new heads. He recommends I replace heads and do total rebuild on the motor which is going to cost around $10K.

Do I rebuild this truck or get a loan to finance another one. I really don't want any payments. Everything was going well until this idiotic mistake of mine cost me my truck. Was making decent money with company I leased on to was averaging $3k per week Mon-Fri home every night all local runs 200-300 miles/Day.

Looking for a Mack CX613 Fuel tank for the driver side>

2 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

All 2004 and up CH/CHN and CX/CXN have the ASET AC engine. The ASET AI is only in the 2004+ CV, MR and LE and very very few of the last R series. 

This Engine has been rebuilt thats the only reason why Im considering purchasing it.

9 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

If you test drove two stock, unmodified,  trucks.........one AC, one AI, and you where not allowed to pop the hood, likely +95% of people would choose the AC. Better performance at the pedal, better economy, just a lotta emissions stuff under the hood (some of which can be eliminated). 

IMO- if I could drop a properly modified 2007 AI-427HP vocational engine into a new 2006 Rawhide chassis I’d lay down my wrenches.

How do I know which Engine I have?