diesel

I did a search, but did not help with my question. I am installing a Jacobs 680B on my 1992 4-valve E7. Following the directions, I set the exhaust yokes so there is .010" clearance. With engine at #1 TDC, I installed the Jakes and set jake at .080" . I then did the exhaust at .024" and intake at .016". I followed the 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order with the flywheel on the valve setting markes. I was doing some double-checking and notice things are fine when the proper cylinder is on the valve setting mark, but 2 or 3 other valves will be extremely loose. If I run them the the proper cylinder mark on the flywheel, the settings will be correct. It appears the pushrods are not all the way down, when I am adjusting the jake and valves. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.

A while back, I bought a used Jake brake setup off of a salvage yard engine. I started in on the project yesterday only to find that I did not get the Jacobs exhaust valve yokes. The Mack part number is 891GC46AM (Jacobs part #017710), which I need 6 of. I went back to the salvage yard and found 5 of them off of a 427 E7, but do not think they are the correct ones. Does anyone know where I can find a set of these without paying $100 each from Mack? Thanks.

I have an 350 hp E7/8LL in my grain truck. The axle ratio is 4.42. I am looking for a different tranny to install, since I dont like how the low side of the 8LL has to be short shifted and the high side is long legged. Can a splitter be added to this 8LL and make it a 12 speed? If not, what tranny would be a good candidate to swap in this truck? Thanks.

My 1992 CH613 has a 22 ft grain box. After installing the steerable pusher axle and 315 steer tires, I can legally make the most of the grain box. I would like to add in some more safety by adding a jake brake. I called my local salvage yard and can get me the complete jake setup to install on my truck. I have a service manual and wondering how difficult this would be to install. Thanks.

I asked several places about different offset on the wheels and was told there was one choice in the 9" rim and I had it. I will ask again. Thanks.

Somedays, it seems that everything I do causes problems. I had the 315 tires mounted and balanced on the 22.5x9 aluminum steer wheels. Installed the LF combo, spun the tire and knocked off some of the tape weights with the bottom, outside edge of the tie rod. Installed the RH combo and tie rod rubs wheel hard enough that it will not turn. Back on the 11R24.5 wheels and tires. I cannot be the only person running315/22.5x9 combo. I did find out there are at least three different steering arms that the tie rod assy bolts to. Has anyone ran into this problem? Someone suggested that I find some spacers and I do not like that idea at all. I think one of the steering arms I have, which is offset away from the wheel, looks like it will work, but the guy that I got it from does not know what application the arm came off of. I have a casting number and appears to still be a good number, but cost $300/side. I am thinking with the offset in these arms, I will need a shorter tie rod tube.

I have a before and after pics, but do not know how to post them. I have not been able scale the truck, since the elevator has been busy. I did look up again on the DOT chart and with the 10% weight limit increase, we can run 63,250 gross. I weighed a 24.5 steel wheel and a 24.5 aluminum wheel and came up with 31 lbs. difference. Our empty weight, with 4 aluminum wheels on the drives, increased 800 lbs. By adding the other 4 aluminum wheels, when the polisher finishes them, our empty weight will have only increased by 680 lbs. I am going to install the 315 tires this week, if it rains. Empty weight, the way the truck sits right now, is around 21,400 lbs. This allows us to haul around 730 bushels of corn.

The truck is already double framed.

I am hoping to get the truck back late Friday or Saturday am. Already have aluminum wheels on the front, so I am installing eight aluminum wheels on the rear. This will help offset some of the weight gained by the pusher axle. Once I get the eight wheels on, I am going to run it across the scale to see how much my empty weight increased. I took a before picture and will be talking an after picture and will try and post the two on this site. May need help posting the pics. Good luck on the cornmeal run.

Currently, with 23 ft between center of front axle to center of rear axle, I can gross 53,000 lbs. Adding another axle, I can gross 57,500 lbs. The truck weighs 20,800 lbs empty. Under the current grain harvest proclimation the govenor passed, We can go up 10% on axles, but must follow the bridge chart. Under the proclimation, the truck with 3 axles could cary 58,300 lbs. That is an increase of 5300 lbs. which is almost 95 bushel increase. Adding the pusher axle, the gross goes up to 63,250. That is an increase of 5750 lbs. which is another 102 bushels of corn.

Is an 18,000 lb axle easier to come up with?

This truck has a 22 ft aluminum Reiten grain box. I was wanting to take advantage of the size of this box. I am going to put a steerable pusher axle on the truck this week and worried that the 12,000 front axle may get overloaded. The front tires on the truck now, 11R24.5 are rated at 7700 lbs/tire. Going to a 315/22.5 tire, the rating goes up to 9900 lbs/tire. I may leave it at that and not worry about the axle. If the pusher axle is set correctly, I will not have to worry about getting too much weight on the front axle. I did find out that the pusher axle is rated at 10,000 lbs.

I am installing 315 tires on the front of a 1992 CH 613. Thinking about installing a 20,000 front axle and was wondering if this is a direct swap. What type of truck am I going to have to get the 20,000 axle out of? Thanks.

I broke down and found a set of used 22.5 x 9" wheels and ordered some 315/22.5 tires. I figure I can get decent price from the 24.5 wheels and tires to offset the price of the wheels and new tires. The tire guy said the 315 will have a flatter tread mounted on the 9" wheels. Thanks for the help.

As hard as it is to come across the 9" wide 22.5 aluminum wheels, can I replace my 24.5x8.25 wheels with a 22.5x8.25 wheel and install the 315/22.5 tire?

I am getting ready to install a steerable pusher axle on my CH613 grain truck. I was wanting to go to the 315 steer tires and between the tires and new axle, I will be at a safe limit above the temporary weight limit the DOT raised for fall harvest. I know the 315 is available in the 22.5 wheels, but an added axpense of trading my freshly polished 24.5 wheels. Any ideas? Thanks.

The tranny is the Eaton Fuller 8LL tranny. Shifting thru the low side is easy. Getting thru the high side is a little more challenging than the high side of the 13 speed in the Pete. It seems like the gears are a wide ratio between gears. I don't suppose I can add on the ability to split the gears on the high side, like the Pete?

I have been using this 92 CH613 with a 22 ft aluminum grain box for a few weeks. I have been around my 13 speed in my 377 Pete for 8 years. It seems to me that theMack's high side gears in the 8LL tranny is a little long legged. The engine is an E7 and I recently installed a Blixxton and put the toggle to the 30% position. I am getting around 21 # of boost when the truck is loaded weighing around 58-60,000 lbs. Is this the nature of the 8LL trannys? Thanks.

I could not find a blixxton website and came across the rochester diesel during the search. I switch my toggle so it was away fomr the wiring and got the boost to about 21 lbs. coming from the field tonight. Since I am running a straight truck and weighing about 58-60,000 lbs, I am guessing that is why my boost is lower than you guys running 80,000 lbs. The only negative thing I can say about this truck and is no fault of the Blixxton, is that the 8LL tranny seems a little long legged in the high side gears. It would be nice if the high side could be split, like the 13 speed in my Pete. Gambi80 how did you know of your charged air leak?

Yes, my 92 model has hub pilot wheels. My 1990 Pete has the stud pilot wheels and I had to change the length of the inner nut when adding aluminum wheels to the outside of the drive axles.

Can anyone tell me which switch position on these modules are the low hp setting and which is the high hp setting? I am assuming the middle is stock, but sheet that came with module did not indicate switch postions. Thanks.

After pulling two steel wheels off the truck and doing some measuring, I have decided to go with a 5 and 3/32" long stud. The studs that are in the truck measure 4" from the underside of the head to the end of the threads. The longer stud with two aluminum wheels, will give me about 1/2" of threads sticking thru the nuts.

I have a 1992 CH613 with camelback suspension. I am switching the 8 steel rear wheels to aluminum. Any idea what length of studs I am going to need?

That link does not refer to jake brake.

I bought a 92 CH613 with a 22 ft aluminum grain box. I was wondering if it was possible to add a jake brake to the E7 engines? Where could I pick one up at? Thanks.