pennsyjeff

I purchased one of those from Barry for my '64 B61 and am very happy with it....I didn't like the price but oh well........

good looking superliner, Superdog, if you don't mind, go to my post on my b-model in the forums and read my question to you about my engine failure, if you don't mind..I wanted your thoughts on what happened to my B model, I have the parts but still have to slide under it and get the new bearings spun in and replace the turbo...thanks, Jeff.

I'd bet that was the cause of your troubles.When I worked at the local Mack dealer back in high school,they were very careful to always replace the bearings in any engine that went on its side if there was even the slightest doubt it ran while turned over.

Superdog, I have a question that you may be able to shed some light on with this whole thing....it looks like the turbo and the main bearing failure occured at the same time, but the oil feed for these 2 things are fed by separate passages...I originally thought that the main spun first causing the turbo to lack for oil, but I don't think that is what happened..I am wondering if something happened to the bypass system for the oil pressure allowing the oil to dump back to sump, could that happen??? I feel both the turbo and the main bearing failing are tied together somehow, but I am not sure how..the oil pump has wear but it doesn't look like it failed...and I really think this had something to do with low oil pressure..give me your thoughts, thanks, Jeff.

I'm new to this deal so bear with me..... I found a 1953 B-61 with a bad motor but it's a good old truck otherwise. I have access to a good mack turbo diesel in a mid 70's? R model and I've been told that this motor should bolt right up. My question is what about everything else? How much fabrication needs to be done on everything else? exhaust, radiator hoses, breather tubes, ect. Any info would be appreciated, Thanks.

Jeff, there are a number of things you will have to do, but it can be done. I have a '64 B61 with a '78 300 plus out of an R model in my truck. The best thing to do is give me a call and I can give you a few tips to get you started. My home is 814-225-4266, work is 814-368-4486 and mobile is 814-598-8366. on the weekends call my home, week days, call my work, it is no problem, I have my own business so call anytime.. Jeff.

I use Gulfway, they do need photos but they are pretty easy to work with..

This is just a thought,but you said your engine came out of a wreck.By any chance did it run on it's side for a short period of time?

You know, I have thought about that, and the person I bought it from said no, but I bet that may be part of it or maybe the start of the problem. The truck was tipped quite severly, but not clear over on its side, the frame was bad and that is what let the box go over on its side, but the cab and engine was probably at a 45 degree angle......good thought.

While the failure of the turbo, and the failure of the main bearing are related. These failures are a result, not a reason, or cause. While supply oil to the turbo might come from a oil galley it should not be routed through a main bearing. the turbo bushing should have full line pressure all the time. any trash from a bushing failure should go through the drain into the oil pan. exhaust wheel junk goes out the exhaust, inlet wheel junk goes into the aftercooler or intake. Make no mistake, it has to be cleaned out. sooner or later it will eat your lunch. Both of these problems are related to oil pressure. Why doe's a bearing fail? Normally a crankshaft spins on a cushion of oil , The only time the crankshaft touches the bearing is when the engine has been at rest or possibly at start up. Why then at bearing replacement do you see more wear on the upper rod bearing shell, and usually lower main shell? Detonation is why.that's what makes it run., Severe detonation closes the clearance puts more heat into the crank, and nullifies the ability of the oil to both cool and lubricate. In extreme cases the constant hammering will cause the parting edges of the bearing to contract., and just like a scrapper wipe the film of oil from the crank. Is that what happened to your engine, I don't know, Look at the bearing farthest from the oil pump, in an oil pump failure that's usually the first one to loose oil.. Check rod bearings on both side of the failed main. One or both receive oil from that main. Now, if you have actually spun a main bearing in the crankcase, Which would imply that the bearing stuck to the crank and spun with the crankshaft in the crankcase. Then that is a major cause for concern. You won't be able to just put a new bearing in and go. You will have to find another crankcase, or strip yours and have it line bored. Drop me a line if I can help you, and good luck. James

Thank you for your input and you make many good points...My main bearing didn't spin within the block, it lost lube between the crank and bearing and had just started to weld itself to the crank..(luckily)..I could tell by the bearing tabs, that it was about ready to spin in the block, but I got it shut down very quickly. Maybe my oil pump is getting weak and with it idleing like it had been before I started out on this trip, the damage had begun, also, before I installed this engine in my truck, it had set for quite some time in a wrecked truck and I installed it in my truck and began to use it. It may have had a main or two (or three) dried out, which was a thought I had and it just finally spun now that I have began to use the engine again.. I am just trying to find out why both (main and turbo) failed pretty much at the same time...I am leaning toward replacing the oil pump, as there may be more wear there than I am seeing..thanks again.

you could be correct on the debris from the main bearing taking out the turbo, I have seen that also. I know there is no antifeeze in the oil, I thought of that but found the oil to be good and clean. I will check the bypass valve in the oil pump, do you guys see many 673 oil pump failures?? if so, what goes bad, the drive gear looks ok as do the pump gears themselves, other than some wear from being a pump for a few years...thanks for the comments, keep the ideas coming, I sure don't want to have to pull that motor out and go thru this again.

Well all, it was a great ride while it lasted, I have had a little set back with my B61...as some of you remember I got my B model running and actually pulled one load of my old cats to a small show here in PA in July, and it worked and looked awsome. I had a slight problem on the next trip though.. I lost oil pressure, ruined the turbo and spun #2 main bearing!!! Now the good news, after inspecting the crank and doing some deep thinking, I don't think the crank will have to be polished, due to me paying attention and getting it shut down as soon as I saw the oil pressure gauge drop. The babbit on the bearing is polishing off the crank and I think I can hand polish it and leave the engine in..But for my big question, WHY..... I removed the oil pump and it looks okay, the turbo has a bent shaft and of course, wheel damage so I know I have to replace that. I just can't determine why all of a sudden I lost a main bearing and a turbo... give me some thoughts guys and let me know what you think??I have studied the service manual and am trying to determine maybe which one occured first, thinking the main might have starved the turbo or if I lost the turbo it may have starved the main bearing, but I am at a loss...give me your thoughts..

Hi all, thanks for all the great compliments and comments. The tractors on the low boy are a 1958 cat 955 track loader that was my fathers in his excavating business that I acquired a couple of years ago and a 1937 cat "22" gasser that I purchased a few years ago. I painted them both but they are not completely restored although they both run and work well. I had loaded them up to take to a small tractor show about 12 miles from my home. The b-model handled the load real well and was a real neat trip to take... I am planning a few more of those hopefully before the summer is over...thanks again for all the answers I got on here and I will post a few more pictures...Jeff.

Just thought I would post a couple of pic's of my load to a small show this weekend here in PA...truck ran really well. This is the truck I had a number of photos of over the past year or so in the engine/trans section...Thanks to all of you for the answers I got on this site for the questions I had....

I posted these pictures in the drivetrain section as I am thinking of changing diff's but I wanted to post them here so all could see the completed pictures. As soon as I hook up my trailer with an old cat on it, I will post them too...........

Hey guys, I mentioned I would get some photos on here of the truck when completed, well here they are.......

Hey y'all, Herb was correct, I looked on my diff's and it is 7.49 ratio......what do you think I should go to for some road speed..I have in on 11.00 x 24.5 tubeless radials, but it originally came with 11.00 x 22 rubber....tell me what you guys think..thanks, Jeff.

The ratio is stamped in the carrier housing, on the flat area on the front side to the bottom right. If yours is on 11.00x22 rubber it prob. has 7.49 ratio, that was common in lots of B61 10 wheelers back then, & would give approx 52-54 mph at 2100. If it's on 11.00x24 rubber it may have 8.24 ratio, that would also put you in the same ballpark as far as mph. 6.34 is an available ratio for the crd 112 & 113 carriers (which I'm just assuming here is whats in there) and we had a truck with that ratio on 11.00x22 which if I remember correctly was capable of about 65 mph @ 2100 rpm. Also, if you go to the Eaton Fuller Roadranger website there is a ratio/mph calculator there to determine road speed @ a given rpm depending on trans high gear ratio, rear axle ratio, tire size etc. Hope this helps, looking forward to seeing the "completed" pics.

Herb

Thanks Herb for your help, I am going to find out what the ratio is and then look for something "taller" if I can...it runs well but is just too slow...as soon as I get the pictures downloaded I will get them on here...

Hi guys, I have my '64 B-61 on the road now and it runs well, but I have one problem. With the 300 plus under the hood, coupled up to the original quad box tranny, I can only get 50 MPH and the engine is tach'ed out at 2100 rpm's.. How do you tell the ratio's of the diff's??? do any of you have any idea of what ratio I should drop in to get 55-60 mph on the road. I want to pull my trailer with my old cats, but I don't have a whole week to get to the shows!!! I will post some pictures so you guys can see it, it really turned out nice..thanks.

you are looking for something that is really hard to find and is bad on most of the B's I have seen. That is why they go crazy on ebay when one comes up....I don't know of a good substitute and yes, the rubber is available thru Barry at Watt's but that is even crazy $$$$... around $200 for just the rubber if my memory is correct. wish I had better

I looked at mine this morning, it has a Wagner # of AE-21882......there are 2 lines coming out of it, one going directly to the wet tank (1st tank) and the second goes into a manifold for the service brakes on the frame, directly over the front axle on the drivers side......hope this helps, when you find out what it is let me know.........Jeff.

I have one of those on my truck also.....I will have to look closer as I know mine has a "wagner" part number on it......if you want I will let you know that number, it may help in getting it for you..Jeff.

Sorry Jeff. I will be keeping it for a while. If I do sell it I'll let you know.

Thanks, keep me in mind......I just bought a 40' step deck, but if I could find one like yours I would rather have it..

Hey Jeff,

I found this on truck paper, looks to be the same thing as what nhtrucka has. It is a hyster 24' tilt bed with a fifth wheel hookup. http://www.truckpaper.com/listings/forsale...E0F8877E6A7569A

nhtrucka,

Did you find that trailer on the truck paper? I saw the same kind of trailer on it few weeks ago and then it wasnt there last week. Nice find.

Thanks for the heads up, I will call them and see what it looks like...thanks again, Jeff.

Do you want to sell it???? that is what I have been looking for......Jeff

That is one sweet looking ride, you did a really nice job on it. Get us more pictures when you get the wheels and the body on it.....Jeff.

Nice job! That truck is definitely pretty! I'm looking at it & I see you used the original oil bath air cleaner. In the previous pictures I noticed that motor has a tip turbine intercooler on it, just wondering what provides air to the intercooler? Also, as far as having that quad box behind that motor, I can tell you from personal experience there won't be a problem , as long as no one does anything reckless with the driveline. We once put a ENDT 676 285hp into a DM600 with a quadruplex & never had a bit of trans trouble. Its just like anything else, if driven respectably it'll last forever,if someone really tries to break it, there's always a way!!!!!!!!!

You are very observant and you also know your macks!!!!!! The air cleaner is actually a dry type that I got from Watt's mack that looks like the original....I have been told by a couple of people that did this engine swap that I would suck the oil out of the air cleaner if I used the old oil bath air cleaner, so I updated to the newer type.... also, I put a K&N dry type filter element directly on the tip turbine fan so it would be filtered air going into it under the hood. I think if I were to work the truck hard on a hot day, I may have a slight problem with hi pyro temp with in not being outside air, but for what I am going to use the truck for I think it will be okay. (at least I am hopeing) I didn't want to cut a hole in my hood for the 2nd air feed pipe and use the dual draw air filter, so this is what I came up with...I wanted the original look.

Hey guys, I finally got my B model out of the shop and had a chance to run her up and down the road (secondary side road) but still got to get it out and make some smoke.....boy does it run nice and have the power..I have to finish up the lights, install the 5th wheel, and some other small things, but hopefully before too long I can hook it up to my trailer and haul my old cats this summer..I hope my pictures come out ok. Jeff.

I forgot to mention...

i have to ditto that , and if my significant other had any idea of the money i was spending she'd likely have me committed. where did you get the top radiator hose? #'s??? i went with a cable throttle, not crazy about it but it's done. sounds like you'll be "tooling down the road" way ahead of me. i wouldn't worry about the q-box, one of the locals has an old DM tri axel with a 300+ and a q-box, he's been running the truck for 15 years and many 20+ ton loads later. i'm sure if it gave him too much grief it would have been changed long ago. the torque figures look awful and plenty of them have come apart, but a little TLC and you shouldn't have any trouble. keep up the good work. scott

Scott, I got mine thru a local truck/auto parts store. I can get you the part # but it is home right now, it was 2" on one end and 2 1/4" on the other end..It was 15" long which was a little excessive but it worked, it was a coiled type so I could bend it to make it work...I will get the # and put it on here so you can order one. It cost me about $20....thanks, Jeff.